This choice will affect the happiness and well-being of our dog, as well as shape our long-term relationship with our furry best friend.

Dog training is an area where emotions run hot, and we will hear many strong opinions or judgments from just about anyone and everyone.

Dog Obedience Training - Good and Bad

Reward dog training is very effective with Shiba Inu Sephy.

The key to dog obedience training is not to be overly influenced by any one source. Gather information on a variety of methods, from a variety of sources, then judge which is the best one for you and your dog.

Some people may tell us that, “Obedience method X will never work for our dog, because he is too dominant, stubborn, fearful, or aggressive“.

Simplistic statements like these are never true. It is better to research the training method ourselves, and form our own opinion.

Basically, there are two classes of dog obedience training:

1. Reward obedience training (give/remove something that our dog likes), and
2. Aversive obedience training (give/remove something that our dog dislikes).

Dog Obedience Training – Reward and Aversive.

Reward Obedience Training

With reward obedience training, we first identify what our dog likes. Then, we encourage or discourage various behaviors by granting (positive reinforcement) or taking away (negative punishment) access to these rewards.

For example, when our dog sits, he gets a dog treat. If our dog is calm, he gets to interact with other dogs. We stop our dog from chewing on shoes, by redirecting him onto a Kong toy. Which rewards work best, depends on our dog’s personality and on his breed.

My Shiba Inu, for example, is a hunting breed and he is very motivated by chasing games. He also likes to explore new environments, and interact with other dogs. I will often use these as rewards while training him.

One common misconception is that we will not be an effective pack leader if we only use reward obedience training.

This is FALSE.

Pack leadership is most effectively achieved through the control of resources. We teach our dog that he gets the things that he wants most, such as food, toys, access to locations, and access to pack members, by following our lead.

Reward Obedience Training.

Reward Obedience Training – The Good

Reward Obedience Training - The Good.

1. Reward training helps to build a strong relationship based on trust.

Reward techniques teach a dog that all good things come from us. To get what he wants, he must first do what *we* want. Since we are viewed as a source for all of his needs, our dog will naturally gravitate toward us.

In addition, a dog learns that he has to work for his own keep. This engages him in interesting activities, helps him stay sharp, and helps to build confidence.

Reward obedience training helps to build a relationship based on trust.

2. Reward training will not damage our dog either physically or mentally.

With reward training, the worst that happens is the removal of a reward. In contrast, physical aversive methods can cause damage to a dog, especially when not implemented properly.

Long term use of leash corrections may cause harm to our dog even when properly applied.

3. Reward training helps to create a dog that is happy and eager to work.

When we only use reward methods, our dog will be eager to work because work time means reward time.

Reward obedience training helps to create a dog that is happy and eager to work.

Reward Obedience Training – The Bad

Reward Obedience Training - The Bad.

1. Reward training may not always solicit a prompt response to our commands.

For some dogs, a reward may not be as strong a motivator as an aversive stimulus, such as pain or fear.

Reward obedience training may not always solicit a prompt response to our commands.

2. . Reward training may sometimes require us to think outside the box.

With reward techniques, we may need to get creative and come up with our own strategies for motivating our dog. This is especially true when we are trying to stop bad behaviors because our dog may derive more enjoyment from the bad act.

Reward obedience training may sometimes require creativity to out-think our dog.

3. Reward training may require that we bring along some treats or toys when on walks and outings.

This can be an inconvenience. However, we can also use the environment, and the objects around us as incentives. All it takes is a bit more imagination, and a bit more understanding of our dog.

4. Reward training may cause our dog to gain weight.

Obesity can sometimes become a problem if we give our dog too many treats. I easily avoid this by using my dog’s regular food rations as part of his training rewards.

Reward obedience training may cause our dog to gain weight.

Aversive Obedience Training

I divide aversive obedience training into three classes:

1. Pain based (e.g. leash correction, muzzle slaps, ear pinch, shock collar);
2. Dominance based (e.g. alpha rolls); and
3. Other – which includes making loud noises (e.g. shaking or dropping a can of pennies, loud horn, clashing pots), using unpleasant smells (e.g. spraying bitter apple on furniture, spraying citronella on muzzle), using unpleasant sensations (spraying water on muzzle, dumping water on body) or anything else that our dog dislikes.

Different aversive methods may place more or less stress on our dog. In general, pain and dominance based methods are the most stressful.

With aversive obedience training, we encourage or discourage behaviors by applying (positive punishment) or stopping (negative reinforcement) an unpleasant stimulus.

For example, if our dog breaks from his stay before we release him, we give him a leash jerk. If our dog starts biting on the leash, we give him a leash jerk, or spray water on his muzzle until he stops. If he jumps, we give him a leash jerk or knee him.

Cesar Millan, one of the most popular dog trainers on television, uses mostly aversive obedience training. Millan has a lot of confidence, as well as a natural talent for reading dogs. This is very important when applying aversive techniques because if they are not implemented properly, they may cause physical and mental harm.

There are a variety of other trainers that use a combination of both reward and aversive techniques, such as The Monks of New Skete.

If aversive training methods are not implemented properly, they may cause physical and mental harm.

Aversive Obedience Training – The Good

Aversive Obedience Training - The Good.

1. Aversive training may get more consistent and prompt responses to commands.

Many dogs will perform a Sit, Down, or Stay, consistently and quickly because they do not wish to face the stress of an aversive stimulus. Once we get consistent and prompt responses from our dog, we can give him more freedom and let him participate in a wider range of activities.

2. Aversive training may show results in a shorter time-span.

As described above, dogs can be very motivated to avoid pain and threats. We will probably start to see results in a shorter period of time compared to reward training.

3. Do not need to carry around rewards such as treats or toys.

We always have what we need.

A leash and a secure backyard are probably more effective than aversive obedience training for keeping a dog from running into traffic.

Aversive Obedience Training – The Bad

Aversive Obedience Training - The Bad.

1. Aversive training may cause loss of trust.

One of the most dangerous aspects of aversive techniques is losing our dog’s trust. If we over-correct our dog, he may start to associate us with the painful aversive stimulus, and lose trust in us.

Shiba Inu Sephy was a lot less trusting when we applied aversive obedience training.

2. Aversive training may encourage aggression and other unwanted side effects.

If we do not implement an aversive method with the proper timing, force, and redirection, our dog may develop aggression toward us and other people. A recent University of Pennsylvania study shows that if we are aggressive to our dogs, they will be more likely to develop aggression issues.

Follow up an aversive correction with praise and rewards.

3. Aversive training may injure our dog if not implemented correctly.

Incorrect implementation of some of these techniques may cause physical harm to our dog. It may also cause physical harm to us and others, when the dog responds to the aversive stimulus with aggression.

4. Aversive training may become ineffective once our dog gets habituated to the stimulus.

If we overuse an aversive method, it is very probable that our dog will become habituated to it (e.g. he becomes used to the pain). Once this occurs, the dog will be less motivated to respond to our commands because the pain or aversive stimulus is no longer a strong enough deterrent.

Aversive obedience training may encourage aggression and other unwanted side effects.

Dog Obedience Training

Carefully consider which techniques are most suited for you and your dog. Be flexible and do not be afraid to change approaches if the current methods are ineffective, or start to cause aggressive dog behavior.

There are four dog obedience training choices:

1. Mostly aversive training with little praise and few treats (Cesar Millan).
2. Only reward training (Suzanne Clothier, Patricia McConnell, Ian Dunbar, Victoria Stillwell).
3. Mixture of aversive and reward training (Monks of New Skete);
4. Only no-pain and no-dominance aversive methods, combined with reward training.

I use reward obedience training with my dogs and it works out great.

Indeed Shiba Inus are not for the faint-hearted, and they are not recommended for first-time dog owners.

Shiba Inu Training Secrets.

Despite this warning, my heart was already set on a Shiba Inu puppy. I had a lot of free time then, so I thought I would be able to handle one little dog. After all, how difficult can a small puppy be?

Little did I know, a Shiba Inu can be a major pain in the ass!

Even dog veterans have problems with their first Shiba. In fact, many experienced trainers were unable to handle my Shiba Sephy.

Here are the Shiba Inu training secrets that helped me turn my devil dog into a model citizen. Well, maybe not a model citizen, but a fun citizen that I truly enjoy living with.

Do not be fooled - A Shiba Inu can be a major pain in the ass.

1. There are No Miracle Cures

When I first got Shiba Sephy, he was a big challenge.

Some of his favorite daily activities include biting my hands, running crazily around the house, biting on curtains, vicious leash biting, jumping on me and others, humping my leg, and much more.

I was desperate to get him under control, and did a lot of research online and off-line. I read a lot of online articles and bulletin boards. I called local dog trainers, watched all the dog training shows on television, and read a lot of dog training books.

During this time, I found something that looked like a miracle … a 10 minute Shiba online training program. According to this advertisement, there were some special “Shiba words” that will magically turn a Shiba into a Lassie. Yeah right!

Luckily, I did not succumb to my desperation, and did not buy this product.

The fact is, there are NO “miracle cures” for training a Shiba Inu.

The secret of Shiba training, is simply to exercise extreme patience, and find humor in our Shiba’s antics. Use reward obedience training, and always be firm but fair.

A Shiba will probably never be a Lassie, or perfect dog. However, if you are looking for a dog with a big personality, who will always make you laugh with his sneaky and roguish ways, then the Shiba Inu is for you.

A Shiba Inu will never be a model citizen but he will most surely make you laugh and smile.

2. Use Passive Resistance

2. Use Passive Resistance.

Shiba Inus get bored easily and do not like being ignored.

The best way to deal with Shiba Inu misbehavior is through passive resistance.

Shibas get bored easily and do not like being ignored. They really enjoy their freedom, and also like being close to their human pack. We can control a Shiba best by controlling these most desired resources: our attention, and his freedom.

If we actively try to stop our Shiba either through physical punishment (e.g. alpha rolls, leash jerk) or active restraint, he will fight back. This encourages him to practice rough play, and biting on people.

If we back away, or become fearful of our Shiba, he will learn that he “wins” by showing dog aggression.

If we over-correct our Shiba by exerting too much physical force, or by correcting him too frequently, we will lose his trust, and it is difficult to regain a Shiba Inu’s trust.

What works best with a Shiba is NOT to engage in a physical competition, but rather to engage in a mental one.

There are certain resources that Sephy really enjoys including walks, treats, toys, and his freedom.

When I want to take him on his walk, I go to the door with his lead, and call him to me. Initially, he would dally and not really want to come, because he wants to go walking on his own schedule. I count to three. If he does not come, I leave and go about my own business.

After a short time, Sephy will amble over, and pester me to take him on his walk. This is done through begging, and whining. I ignore all this bad dog behavior. When I have a break in my schedule again, I repeat the above exercise.

A Shiba will quickly learn that to get the resources that he wants most (e.g. go on walks), he has to do it according to our rules, and our schedule. It is important to practice the Nothing in Life is Free (NILIF) program with a Shiba.

Set a Shiba Inu up for success, so that we can reward him frequently, and keep him interested in doing what we want.

Another Shiba favorite is to steal something he is not supposed to, and then run away with it, thereby engaging a fun chase game.

A Shiba Inu is very agile, and it will be difficult for us to catch him. I always try to keep an eye out for my sneaky Shiba, and stop him before he steals an object. I also put a drag lead on him, so that I can easily catch him by stepping on the lead.

Note: Use a regular flat collar with the drag lead, and not an aversive collar. Aversive collars such as prong collars or choke chains, should only be used during supervised training sessions. Cut the loop on the drag-lead, so that it does not catch on anything in the house.

Only give our Shiba Inu attention when he refrains from bad Shiba behaviors.

3. Rules, Rules, Rules

3. Rules, Rules, Rules.

No biting on people. Shiba Inu Sephy is redirected onto a toy.

Shiba Inus are naturally dominant. If we do not provide them with rules, that we consistently enforce, they will take over the house.

It is best to enforce those rules as early as possible. This ensures that Shiba does not develop any bad habits later on, that will be more difficult to break.

Some of Shiba Sephy’s rules:

1. No Biting

The most important rule that I place on Sephy, is no biting on people. Shiba Inus are a very mouthy breed. Their instinct is to use their mouth in a wide variety of situations, including when they are excited, frustrated, and fearful.

They also have large teeth, and can accidentally hurt children and seniors. If Sephy starts biting on me or on others, I no-mark the behavior (Ack, ack). If he continues, I put him on a time-out.

It is also important to teach a Shiba bite inhibition. In this way, when he loses control of himself and does bite, he will not cause much harm.

No food aggression.

No rough play with people.

2. No Food Aggression or Resource Guarding

Prevent our Shiba Inu from guarding resources. Shibas have a don’t back down, don’t surrender attitude. Therefore, the best way to teach them not to guard resources, is to use reward training techniques.

Show them that people and other dogs coming near them, while they are eating or playing with their toys, is a good thing. Prevent stealing, and practice exchanging objects. This teaches them that giving up something, does not mean it is gone forever.

If we use physical force to grab a toy away from our Shiba, he will likely become more possessive over his objects. He will also lose trust in us, and may use aggression to protect himself, and his belongings.

3. No Rough Play

I do not play rough with Sephy. He gets to wrestle with my other dogs, but no wrestling is allowed with humans.

I also do not play any dominance games with him, for example, no Tug-of-War. The few times that I did play Tug with Shiba Sephy, he followed very strict rules during the game. However, when I took him out for walks, he would start playing tug with the leash (leash biting).

Shiba Inu Sephy only does rough play with other dogs.

4. Socialize Our Shiba Inu

4. Socialize Our Shiba Inu.

Socialize our young Shiba Inu to many sights, sounds, and smells.

Shiba Inus have an extreme play style that many dogs may not like.

Shiba Inus can get aggressive to unfamiliar things including objects, dogs, people, and environments.

They are also naturally stubborn, and may become aggressive when forced to do things that they do not like.

Socialize our young Shiba to many sights, sounds, and smells, and he will be ready to handle new things as a confident, and well-balanced adult. Make sure that new experiences are always positive, and at worst, neutral.

Some things to consider while socializing our Shiba Inu:

1. Shiba Inus have an extreme play style, that many dogs may not like.

When he was young, I used to take Sephy to enclosed dog parks. During this time, his favorite play partners were larger dogs, and young Pit Bulls. Shibas like doing wrestling and rough play, which can easily overwhelm other small dogs.

Choose our Shiba’s play-mates carefully, so that a fun time can be had by all.

Shiba Inus dislike handling.

2. Shiba Inus dislike handling.

Socialize a Shiba to touching and grooming, as early as possible. Pair the touch and groom sessions with very good treats, so that he will associate handling with positive experiences.

Do not use physical force to do any grooming. This will make it into an unpleasant experience, and our Shiba will fight us every step of the way.

Instead, groom gently, and make it short, fun, and rewarding.

3. Shiba Inus do not generally like people petting them from above.

Petting from above can be seen as a dominance move by dogs, and Shibas may see this as a threat.

We can slowly desensitize our Shiba to this move, by pairing head petting with good food rewards. At the same time, instruct people to approach from under our dog’s head, and scratch his chest.

Shiba Inus do not generally like people petting them from above.

5. Control Our Own Energy

An important thing to remember while interacting with our Shiba, is to control our own energy.

Shiba Inus are especially sensitive to the energy of their owners, and the people around them.

When I first got puppy Sephy, he was extremely mouthy. In particular, he would resort to biting when I stopped him from doing something unacceptable.

This made me become afraid of him.

The more afraid I became, the worse Sephy behaved. As soon as I got fearful, he would start to hump my leg, grab my clothes, jump on me, or bite my hands, arms, and legs.

5. Control Our Own Energy.

Anger and frustration will also elicit extreme Shiba Inu behaviors.

Anger and frustration will also elicit extreme Shiba behaviors.

In the early days, I had a dog walker take Sephy out for group walks at the park. When the walker tried to stop Sephy from doing something disruptive, he would object, and try out one of his Shiba moves, including alligator rolls, leash biting, hand biting, and of course the Shiba scream.

The dog walker naturally got embarrassed when Sephy screamed like he was about to die. There were other people around, and some of them thought that she was mistreating the poor dog. Sephy easily sensed her embarrassment and frustration. From then on, the Shiba scream was his favorite weapon to use against her.

With a Shiba Inu, it is important to stay calm at all times.

Once I was able to control my fear and remain calm, things improved significantly with my Shiba Inu.

With a Shiba Inu, it is important to stay calm at all times.

If we lose our cool, Shiba will sense it and continue to use this weakness against us.

The best way to handle a misbehaving Shiba, is to stay calm, and remove him to a quiet, lower stimulus area, as soon as possible. If he continues with his bad behavior, he gets his freedoms revoked with a time-out. Remember that fear, anger, frustration, and other extreme emotions will only make the problem worse.

Once I was able to control my fear and remain calm, things improved significantly with my Shiba.

Sephy will never be a model-citizen, but nowadays, he is actually very fun to be with. He is goofy, he is funny, and he usually stays out of serious trouble.

Shibas can be a big challenge to live with, but they are well worth the effort. They have a great personality, and they are always up to something that will make us laugh.

I love my Shiba Inu.

He is one of my best buddies, and whenever I see him, I just have to smile.

Gotta love a Shiba Inu!