Shiba Shake

Dog Tips, Care & Training

3 Dog Training Techniques

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When I first got my Shiba Inu, I had a lot of troubles with him. He is a stubborn, independent minded guy, and I was expecting a more Disneyesque kind of dog. Instead, I got an aloof thing that looked like a dog, but acted more like a “terror that flaps in the night”.

Because Sephy was so confident, stubborn, and independent, I started with aversive training techniques. In this article, I talk about three common dog training methods that I used on Sephy, and why I have stopped using them.

  • Touching the dog’s flank.
  • Leash corrections, collar corrections, or leash jerks.
  • Holding a dog to the ground (also known as the alpha roll).
Shiba Inu smiling (face close-up).
Shiba Inu Sephy – the terror that flaps in the night.

1. Touch the Dog’s Flank

This technique is commonly used to stop a dog from obsessing on an external stimulus (e.g. another dog, a cat, a person). Reactive or aggressive dogs often start by actively searching for something to focus on. Once a target is acquired, the dog gets extremely still, and will stare unblinking at the object.

During this time, the dog will not give attention to anything else, even food.

From here, the dog can explode in a burst of energy and lunge after his target when it gets within range.

Shiba Inu in harness, with front leg slightly raised, staring at something on the trail and pulling on the leash.
Shiba Inu Sephy obsessing on an external stimulus.

I try to stop my dog as early as possible, and redirect him onto something else. If I wait too long, he will lose control and practice reactive/aggressive behavior, that he will then be more prone to repeat.

Initially, I was able to break my Shiba Inu from focusing on objects by touching his flank (startle response). After a few times however, he got habituated to it and would just ignore the touch.

The best technique, I have found, for avoiding reactive/aggressive triggers, is to ignore those objects myself, and just move my dog along. There are a variety of other techniques for dealing with dog-to-dog aggression and other aggression triggers.

Shiba Inu walking on-leash at a park trail.
The best technique, I have found, for avoiding reactive/aggressive triggers, is to ignore those objects myself, and just move my dog along.

A variation on the touch, is what is known as the finger jab. Instead of a touch or tap, some trainers direct clients to apply a hard jab to the dog. While the two techniques may sound similar, they actually work quite differently.

Unlike a touch, finger jabs are very dependent on the amount of physical force applied. We want to apply the right amount of force, so that our dog has an aversive response. Too weak a jab and our dog will just ignore it, and too strong a jab may cause stress, fear, and more.

Finger jabs are a pain based technique, and as such, all the risks of aversive methods are present as well.

Shiba Inu making a funny, this is bad face. As if eating something that did not agree.
Finger jabs are a pain based aversive technique, and as such all the risks of such techniques apply.

2. Leash Correction, Collar Correction, Leash Jerk

Leash corrections are very difficult to implement with the proper timing, with the proper force, and with the proper technique. I received many private lessons on how to perform leash jerks, and I was still not doing it correctly.

Firstly, and most importantly, the collar correction has to be a quick jerk or snap. There is only tension for an extremely short amount of time (a quarter-second or less), and then the leash should be loose again.

Most people tend to do tugs rather than jerks, which have very little effect on the dog. Instead, it may exacerbate the situation, because there is continuous tension on the leash, causing the dog to get more tense and frustrated.

Secondly, we must be properly positioned for the jerk so that the force is always to the side, rather than directly back. Jerking to the back, may encourage the dog to lunge forward to oppose the force.

Shiba Inu walking on-leash with man in the neighborhood.
Leash corrections are very difficult to implement with the proper timing, with the proper force, and with the proper technique.

Shiba Inu with his head in a little bush during an on-leash neighborhood walk.
It cannot be so soft that our dog does not notice it or gets habituated to it.

Finally, the leash jerk has to be implemented with the proper amount of force so that our dog exhibits an aversive response. It cannot be so hard that it causes our dog to break down, and it cannot be so soft that our dog does not notice it or gets habituated to it. For me, this was the most difficult part.

My leash jerks were always too soft, and my Shiba Inu quickly got habituated to it. Instead of improving his behavior, my dog just got frustrated and aggressive whenever I did a leash correction. He would jump and bite on the leash. Ultimately, it got so bad that he would jump on me and bite on my jacket sleeve.

Some people use a martingale collar, prong collar, or choke chain to help them perform more accurate leash jerks, with greater force. I used both the martingale and the prong. However, as with the flat collar, results were good at first, but degraded after my dog got accustomed to the increased force from the prong.

The collar correction may be more appropriate for a less strong-willed breed, but it did not work well on my stubborn Shiba Inu. As with other pain based aversive techniques, leash corrections can also cause our dog to lose trust in us, and develop other behavioral problems, including aggression.

Shiba Inu lying on a red carpet in a Sphinx like pose.
The collar correction may be more appropriate for a less strong-willed breed, but it did not work well on my stubborn Shiba Inu.

3. Alpha Roll

The alpha roll involves holding or pinning our dog down until he surrenders, gives up, or shuts down.

It is extremely difficult to implement an alpha roll well and in the proper circumstance. In the hands of most pet owners, alpha rolls frequently gets overused and misused.

My Shiba Inu got really stressed (wild eyes, mouthing, screaming, flailing) whenever I did this on him. Even after he relaxed, he got very detached afterwards, and it did not seem to have any effect on his bad dog behaviors. In fact, alpha rolls made things worse because my dog became extremely sensitive towards human touch.

After a lot of counter-conditioning work, he is a bit better today, but is still skittish of heavy handling and restraint. I am slowly working to gain back the enormous amount of trust I lost by using the alpha roll technique.

Doing an alpha roll on Siberian Shania?
This may “look” like an alpha roll, but it was just a fun scratch session. I have not performed alpha rolls since things worked out so badly for Sephy.

Even the Monks of New Skete, who were the first to popularize the alpha roll, have recently said that they regretted putting this technique in their book because it has been misused.

Alpha rolls should only be used by expert trainers, who are really good at reading dogs, and only as a last resort for dealing with dogs that do not respond to anything else.

Unfortunately, this technique has gotten more popular again, because of television training shows.

I see many people using it in dog parks, dog trails, and vet offices for minor offenses, or not even real offenses at all. The most frequent case of alpha rolls occur when a rude dog runs up to invade another dog’s space. The invaded dog naturally starts vocalizing to warn the rude dog off, and tell him that his rude behavior is unacceptable. This is all perfectly natural canine behavior.

Nevertheless, the growling dog gets alpha rolled by his owners, in front of the rude dog. This can erode our dog’s trust in us, because not only did we not protect him from the rude dog, but we are also punishing him for trying to protect himself. It also teaches our dog not to growl in the future, and to go directly into an attack or a bite.

Alpha rolls are dangerous, erodes trust, and may cause additional dog behavioral problems.

I have never seen it make things better, and have seen many instances of it making things worse. Even when expert trainers did this on my Shiba Inu, he did not respond well. It did not stop his bad behaviors, and only encouraged more aggression. Violence begets more violence.

Alpha rolls make for a good television show, but given the extreme risks, both physical and mental, to the dog and the trainer, I would stay away from this technique. I would also stay away from trainers who recommend its use.

Girl scratching two Huskies on the neck, at the same time.
My dogs respond best to resource management techniques.

What Worked Best with My Shiba Inu

Resource management techniques combined with a consistent set of rules and a fixed routine has worked well for Sephy. He is not perfect, but his behavior has improved significantly, and he is happy and relaxed.

I no longer use finger jabs, leash corrections, or alpha rolls on any of my dogs.

Three dogs and man hanging out (group shot).
What Worked Best with My Dogs

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Comments

  1. Hello there, happy new year!

    I’m hoping for some serious feedback cause the last
    two days have been terrible. I’ll admit – I did not research or know anything about a Shiba Inu prior to owning one. My fault – absolutely. However, me having a puppy was very last minute (long story) My pup, Xander, is just shy of 3 months & I got him about 3 weeks ago. Since then I have done a lottt of reading & research because I want to do the best I can. I’m still learning but will gladly take any help I can get.

    So, a few of the things I get are just normal puppy issues but I feel that anything I’ve done hasn’t even helped in the slightest. He pees all the time in the house, even right after I’ve taken him out. Side note – my carpet is green unfortunately so I’m not sure if he mistakes it for grass? I’ve recently noticed him trying to dig into the carpet so that’s why I’m not sure. He chews everything – even rocks. He’s so quick sometimes he’ll swallow it before I’m able to get it out of his mouth. He refuses to walk. Sometimes when we go out he’ll just sit down & wont even budge. I have a big yard so we walk around the house sometimes so that’s good. And now, as of the past two days which has made me want to cry – he’s started to really bite. Like angry bite. Every time he bites or chews I’ll do my best to distract him with his own chew toys, etc. but it hasn’t helped. He gets a lottt of attention & we play with him as often as possible. I’m not sure if he’s just mad that I keep taking stuff away but the angry biting is what has me the most concerned. I’m almost in tears & at a loss. I do know the one thing I didn’t do so well on so far is punishment. I was putting him in his crate for timeouts and just started using the bathroom but he doesn’t seem to have much a problem with the crate. He will cry for maybe 10ish minutes and then he will lay down. So, if there is anything I missed – any advice, I’ll take it all.

    Reply

    • Hi Liza
      I am far from being an expert an get my 1st dog (and shiba in Sept 19).
      I really love this blog as it shows some owners have pretty hard time and things are often as described in books. Shibasake shows there’s always a way, and you will find a solution! I will just share what has worked for me and Kawaii. Sorry if it is too long!

      For the potty issue, maybe you can try to have Xander in a play pen as soon as you cannot have your eyes on him. He will probably respect his ”home” and won’t pee inside. Try to have him potty break often before you find out at which frequency he needs to go. If he’s outside the play pen, try to keep your eyes on him every time. If you catch him starting squatting, clap in your hands to surprise him and make him stop and pick him in your arms (on his back – he won’t pee on himself) and reach the ”potty spot in your garden and praise him.
      If you go to the garden for his potty break and he doesn’t do anything; just say nothing and let him in the play pen. Try 30 min later.
      Hope it will work for you!!

      For the rocks, I stopped worrying about it and only remove stuff from my dog’s mouth when it is metallic or glass. When picking the object I trade it against a treat. I also practice drop it exercise with plenty treats when playing.

      For refusing to walk: try to call him once give him the 1,2 3 seconds to come. If he doesn’t continue what you wanted to do and try again when you have the time. You can put him in the play pen in the meantime. Staying calm is the most difficult thing right?! Mine play at catch me if you can… I remove the toys and ignore me… and try again later. But you are the one in charge, and you will decide when to go out.

      For the biting: If it is against your furniture, I redirect my dog saying ”nah” and offer him a Kong or a wood stick in order for him to chew. I let them always around for him to pick them when he needs.
      If he bites you; 2 options the soft one fake a cry sound and turn your back on him and ignore him for 30s – really count 30 slowly, he has to feel the loneliness.
      If it is not working keep his head into your hand and look at him with severe look and without a word for 30 real secondes, then go away… and come back to play later. (Do not use that too often, other he may think your a psycho or loose the power of it).
      Also try when you pet him in your arm, to touch his jaws, praise… touch his tooth and praise…etc slowly but surely… everyday till improvement… then several times per week.

      You may also to hand feed him several weeks to make him understand you control the food; having him sit and look into your eyes before feeding him…

      Good luck with your little monster, try to stay calm… and patience will work and transform him into a nice pup.

      … You may also try obedience class for puppies! It may help

  2. Really need help with my shiba! He is a little over 6 months now and he is very food aggressive. I have been feeding him by hand and stopping him from eating with treats, turkey meat and even taking his bowl away. Problem is, even after he is finished he still sees RED for about 5 mins. If he sees a sudden move he will lunge and bite. Dog or humans. He has bit my girlfriend about 5 times now. We are trying hard to fix this. PLEASE HELP!!

    Reply

  3. we are getting our shiba pup in a couple of months so i’ve been studying your blog. so informative thank you!

    Reply

  4. Hi,

    Thank you for all of these blog posts. I have a 4 year old Shiba that I’ve had since he was 8 weeks old. Your articles have greatly helped me to train Kazu and he is perfect in most areas except in leash walking. I made the mistake of keeping him off leash for the first year of his life because I was teaching him boundaries (like how far he can be away from me), and while he doesn’t run away and comes back when called, as soon as I put the leash on him it’s a whole different story. He pulls and pulls until his collar or harness will slip off. I’ve tried redirecting his goal , I’ve tried very quick leash jerks, and I’ve tried to even stand still until he calms down, but once that leash relaxes, he pulls again (so he knows what I’m looking for, just not willing to continue with it). The only thing that seems to work is if I take him on extended walks that will tire him out by the end. Any suggestions?

    Reply

    • How did you teach him to come when called snd walk off leash? I’ve never in my life had a dog that does not want to come to me, so I never figured out how to get my dog to come. If she doesn’t want to in the first place how do I reward her for it? However, my dog is wonderful and sweet, not aggressive, and calm. Our only struggle is her bolting out the door and then we can’t get her back unless she decides to come.

  5. Hi Shibashake,

    Firstly I just wanted to thank you for these blog posts. they have provided great info and insight into the Shiba breed. I have a 6 month old Shiba inu who I love to bits but also drives me crazy sometimes. I was wondering what your best advice on puppy biting is? I’ve tried every technique from yelping, to holding her mouth shut and time out also but nothing really seems to work. She is mostly biting me to get me to play I believe so do you think time out is best in this case. I have a studio at home and every time I sit down to do work she attacks me. The funny thing is I have a two year old daughter which she never bites hardly and treats her completely differently than my husband and I. They sure are an interesting breed.

    Also do you have any advice on food stealing? We can’t sit on the couch anymore and eat because she jumps on us or tries to bully us into giving her food which we never have. she just doesn’t give up.

    thanks again.

    Reply

  6. I have only ever used an alpha roll once. I enjoyed reading this article and your take on the matter. I agree *almost* completely. The alpha roll is an extreme technique, and it is my opinion that most owners simply show their own immaturity in their overuse of it. Especially when used in dog parks in front of other people, I believe that it is less about correcting the dog and more about showing off their own ego. In my particular case: When I was younger I adopted a chocolate lab from a local pound. He was a very quiet dog most of the time, and it was difficult to get him to open up and relax. Several times I attempted to get him involved in playful sessions with me and my first dog, a yellow lab/greyhound mix named Casey. Casey was female and the chocolate was male. Casey ran off and I was left alone with Bear (the choc). When I tried to approach him he snarled and then snapped hard at me. He was genuinely attempting to bite me. I pinned him instantly and held tight. I did NOT hurt him (many owners seem to think that inflicting pain is somehow a part of alpha rolling and it is not.) I simply held him in a way that restricted his movement until he relaxed. After, I softly let him go, rested my hand gently on his head for a moment and looked him in the eyes, then walked away. I did not treat him any differently after the roll than I did before it. I never used it again. His behavior that day also never repeated, and he actually became a much friendlier dog after that.

    Reply

  7. Hi! We rescued a 7 week old puppy 9 months ago, recently she has gotten reactive atound men and is not comfortable when people try to touch her while on walks. Also she barks at anything outside our house and it has become an issue because we live between 2 houses with babies and she barks loudly, would you have any tips to help us with this problems? We would be very grateful!

    Reply

  8. We have a 4 year old Shiba female, Mochi. We took her to puppy kindergarten, and she learned some basic commands, but then we got lazy and did not keep up her training. One she never would do reliably is the recall command “come”. We are now realizing it is the most important one! Any suggestions for teaching our headstrong little fur-monster this command now? We are at our wit’s end. She has seemingly no desire to please, and even food treats don’t seem to appeal to her once she realizes you want something from her.

    Reply

  9. Hello what kind of activities did you do with your dog to earn his trust back after the alpha roll? I did the same to my Siberian husky and it definitely didn’t help any at all. Any advice you would be willing to give me would be greatly appreciated.

    Reply