• by shibashake
  • How to Become Pack Leader to An Aggressive Dog.

    It is especially difficult to become pack leader to an aggressive dog because we will naturally fear our dog’s aggression.

    My Shiba Inu used to have the worst bouts of aggressive leash biting. He would jump up on me and sometimes grab my jacket sleeve, and shake his head very rigorously in what I call the kill-move (the shaking, head tossing motion that animals make to kill prey).


    Pack Leader To An Aggressive Dog.

    Pack Leader To An Aggressive Dog.

    The more fearful I got of my dog, the more aggressive he became. He started humping my leg and attacked the leash whenever I held it. Thankfully, he never broke skin, because of bite inhibition training. Nevertheless, I dreaded walking my dog and even just being with him.

    Here are some techniques that helped me conquer my fear and become pack leader to my aggressive dog.


    Pack Leader - Here are some techniques that helped me conquer my fear and become pack leader to my aggressive dog.

    Pack Leader - Here are some techniques that helped me conquer my fear and become pack leader to my aggressive dog.

    Pack Leader Tip 1

    Practice calm and assertive energy.

    Cesar Milan, The Dog Whisperer, always emphasizes the importance of projecting calm and assertive energy, especially when interacting with an aggressive dog. If you interact with a dog using nervous, submissive, fearful, or otherwise weak (non-assertive) energy, the dog may react to that energy and start showing aggression.

    Anger, impatience, frustration, and all other non-calm energies will also excite your dog and cause him to behave badly.

    Some techniques that helped me remain calm and assertive include:

    • Taking deep breaths and focusing on breathing to remain calm.
    • Actively thinking of something else whenever I start to get stressed about what my dog might do.
    • Using the “tsch” sound that Cesar Millan uses (no, it is not a magical sound for calming dogs) to help remind myself to stay calm and assertive.
    • Walking with an assertive posture (shoulders back, head up).

    In addition, make sure that you are not putting tension on the leash.

    The thing that helped me most was to imagine the worst that my dog could do – In the leash biting case it was a bite to my hand or arm. I decided that for my Shiba Inu, I could deal with some bites and that if he did that I would hold firm, get him home as quickly as possible, and then put him directly in a time-out area.

    Once I had a plan for dealing with the worst, I became less fearful.

    Once my energy improved, my dog’s bad behavior also improved significantly.

    Pack Leader Tip 2


    Pack Leader Tip 2 - Have a drag-lead on your dog and keep him on a schedule.

    Pack Leader Tip 2 - Have a drag-lead on your dog and keep him on a schedule.

    Have a drag-lead on your dog and keep him on a schedule.

    You have probably noticed that your dog can run much faster than you can. Your dog has probably noticed this too! To get better control of your dog and avoid chasing games always have a drag-lead on your dog. Initially start with a longer leash so you can control him without being close to his mouth.

    Only use a flat collar with the drag lead and NOT a training collar.

    Muzzle your dog if necessary with a basket muzzle. Your dog can still chew with a basket muzzle and it is less restraining. To make the muzzling process less stressful, you may want to first desensitize your dog to the muzzle by pairing it with food and fun.


    Pack Leader - Both Siberian Husky puppy Shania and Shiba Inu Sephy have drag leads on in case play gets out of control.

    Pack Leader - Both Siberian Husky puppy Shania and Shiba Inu Sephy have drag leads on in case play gets out of control.

    Pack Leader Tip 3


    Pack Leader Tip 3 - Have clear and consistent rules for your dog at all times.

    Pack Leader Tip 3 - Have clear and consistent rules for your dog at all times.


    Fun scratch session continues as long as there is no biting on hands.

    Fun scratch session continues as long as there is no biting on hands.

    Have clear and consistent rules for your dog at all times.

    Initially, be more strict with your dog. Institute more rules so that you have many opportunities to show your dog that you are pack leader. If your dog does not follow the rules, then he does not get his most desired resources (e.g. access of the backyard, walks, yummy dog treats, fun dog toys, play time, access to pack members).

    One of the best ways to become pack leader to an aggressive dog is to control his resources by following the Nothing in Life is Free (NILIF) program. This just means that your dog does not get anything until he does something for you first.

    Do not give your dog all of his food on a silver platter. Instead, use them for dog training, grooming, during walks, and play time. Never leave food or other resources (e.g. toys) out for him to use whenever he wants. Being pack leader means that you control everything and you decide when, where, and for how long he gets access to resources.

    Once you gain some confidence and your dog is behaving better, you may relax some of the rules.

    Some useful rules to establish and maintain pack leadership include:

    • No getting on furniture.
    • Sit calmly before going through doorways and only go through on command.
    • No jumping on people.
    • No leash biting.
    • No food aggression. Must release resource (food, toys, or other items) on command.
    • Absolutely no growling, barring of teeth, mouthing, or biting of people.

    Must work and lie calmly for food.

    Must work and lie calmly for food.

    Pack Leader Tip 4


    Pack Leader Tip 4 - More walks of shorter duration.

    Pack Leader Tip 4 - More walks of shorter duration.

    More walks of shorter duration.

    Most aggressive behaviors occur on neighborhood walks because that is when your dog is exposed to the most interesting stimuli (e.g. other dogs, cats, squirrels, people). On walks, you also have less control over the environment, and may not easily and quickly get your dog to a time-out area.

    When I had troubles with my Shiba Inu, I shortened our walks but increased their frequency.

    First, I would get him to walk in a heel position with me inside the house. Doing the heel inside the house helped to put me in a pack leader mindset and position. It also allowed me to quickly put my dog in a time-out if he started any aggressive behaviors.

    Once we were ready, we practiced door manners. This helps to further establish pack leadership. My dog had to sit calmly while I opened and closed the door. If he remains calm, we would leave and start the walk.

    Initially, I walked my dog close to the house so that I could quickly end the walk, get him home, and put him on a time-out if he started showing any aggression. As we started to have more and more successful short walks, I was able to gain more confidence and reduce my fear. When things started improving, I slowly increased the distance and duration of the walk.


    When I had troubles with my Shiba Inu, I shortened our walks but increased their frequency

    When I had troubles with my Shiba Inu, I shortened our walks but increased their frequency

    Pack Leader Tip 5


    Pack Leader Tip 5 - Have a game plan.

    Pack Leader Tip 5 - Have a game plan.

    Have a game plan.

    A very important part of being pack leader is to be prepared.

    Come up with a plan for dealing with each and every one of your dog’s aggressive behaviors. Go online, talk to trainers, and devise a range of methods for dealing with your dog. Remember that the human brain is much larger than a dog’s brain so you can easily outsmart your dog.

    When my dog had his leash biting problems, I tried every possible method I could think of, including leash corrections, water spray, loud noise, touching the dog’s flank, stepping on the leash and ignoring him, turning my back to him, redirecting on a toy, giving an alternative command, and much more.

    The method that finally worked for me is to hold the leash close to his collar (so I have good control of him) and getting him into a brisk walk home. He couldn’t leash bite and walk briskly at the same time, so he gave up the ghost. Note: do not try this if your dog does not have good bite inhibition.

    Even though I tried many methods that did not work, having a well thought-out plan of action helped me to remain calm when my dog became aggressive. I just focused on the game plan rather than getting stressed or fearful.


    A very important part of being pack leader is to be prepared.

    A very important part of being pack leader is to be prepared.

    Pack Leader Tip 6


    Pack Leader Tip 6 - Avoid people and dogs with bad energy.

    Pack Leader Tip 6 - Avoid people and dogs with bad energy.

    Avoid people and dogs with bad energy.

    Your dog will be affected, not just by your energy, but also by the energy of the people and dogs around him.

    In the initial stages of establishing pack leadership, it is best to avoid people and dogs with bad energy. These people can trigger an aggressive reaction in your dog because of the weak or unbalanced energy they are projecting.

    Once you gain more confidence, and feel that your own energy can overcome these external sources of energy you may start to quickly walk your dog past them. Don’t stop and greet them until you have your fear and your dog fully in control.

    Even Cesar Millan, who is extremely calm with dogs, will frequently ask nervous or fearful dog owners to stay away in the initial stages of training. This allows Cesar to establish pack leadership first, before dealing with the unbalanced external energy.

    When I was begining my pack leadership process, I avoided all houses with unbalanced dogs. As things improved, I was able to expand my walks, and eventually take my dog to on-leash, then off-leash park trails.

    I only let my dog greet dogs that are calm and in control of their owners. At this time, I am keeping encounters short and sweet. I will start to lengthen the duration of the encounters once we have had many successful short greetings and are more at ease with other dogs.

    Remember that being pack leader also means protecting your dog from unwanted attention, whether human or canine.

    Instruct people on the best way to meet your dog (e.g. don’t pat from above, no quick hand movements). If they cannot follow your instructions, then leave. If you must be rude, then so be it. Find a good vet who is familiar with aggressive dogs and is willing to spend the time in getting to know your dog.


    Pack Leader - Remember that being pack leader also means protecting your dog from unwanted attention, whether human or canine.

    Pack Leader - Remember that being pack leader also means protecting your dog from unwanted attention, whether human or canine.

    Pack Leader Tip 7


    Pack Leader Tip 7 - Address aggressive behaviors as soon as possible.

    Pack Leader Tip 7 - Address aggressive behaviors as soon as possible.


    No food aggression or food guarding.

    No food aggression or food guarding.

    Address aggressive behaviors as soon as possible.

    A good pack leader is a vigilant pack leader. Watch your dog closely, especially when he is young (< 1 year old). Stop any aggressive behaviors as soon as you see them. If you do not address aggression issues early, your dog will likely escalate his behavior and start practicing aggression in a broader range of contexts. Once this occurs it will be harder to break your dog of the habit.

    I do not let my dog leash bite, show teeth, growl, or mouth at me. Any of these offenses will get him a warning (ack ack). If he continues, he gets a time-out. Manage the everyday details of your time with your dog so that you set him and yourself up for success.

    Proper management can significantly increase the number of successes, reduce the number of aggressive episodes, and help you  become a good pack leader.


    Proper management can significantly increase the number of successes, reduce the number of aggressive episodes, and help you  become a good pack leader

    Proper management can significantly increase the number of successes, reduce the number of aggressive episodes, and help you become a good pack leader

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    36 Comments

    1. shibashake

      Hello Emily,
      Yeah, I experienced some of that with my Shiba in his younger days. Every time he got excited or when I stopped him from doing something, he would get wild and start jumping and biting at my jacket. I started really dreading our walks and became afraid of his wild behavior.

      Fear is really the Enemy though. Sephy’s behavior worsened the more fearful I became of him.

      The steps I took above really helped me during this time. The thing that helped me most is to get as much information as possible on the behaviors that I was most afraid of. I also observed him carefully so that I knew exactly the triggers that would cause those behaviors. Finally, I came up with a series of detailed steps that I would take whenever he started his wild jumping and biting.

      Once I had a plan, my fear lessened because then I knew what to do, and I would just focus on the steps. Not all of the plans worked, but if they did not, I came up with alternative strategies and something usually works out. This helped me become more confident, and as I gained confidence, Sephy’s behavior improved significantly.

      Observe Shiba carefully and see what his triggers are – does he attack when he is touched? approached? when people enter the house?

      As you described, moving is a big deal to a Shiba because it is such a big change to his routine. Dogs, especially Shibas really need their routine, so a big change like that could cause significant stress. Has he been more stressed than usual? Is he eating less? How does he act when he is alone? Has anything else changed – e.g. your schedule, your friends, frequency of visitors?

      Finally, his behavior could also be due to something physical. If he has accidentally hurt himself (hurt paw, tooth issues, etc.) it can also cause a change in behavior.

      A professional trainer can be very helpful in situations like this to help you identify the source of Shiba’s aggressive behaviors. A good trainer can also come up with a plan to help Shiba get over his stress and redirect his negative behaviors into something more positive.

      It will get better.

      Things got better with Sephy once I started getting more information, worked on controlling my own energy, and developed a variety of strategies to redirect his energy.

      Good luck – let us know how it goes.

      7:48 pm on August 29th, 2010
    2. Emily

      I recently moved, and this seemed to awaken my shiba inu’s aggressive behavior. He attackes all of my friends, and even me. I’m not sure what to do with him. I’m afraid to put his leash on him, or even spend time with him anymore.

      4:57 pm on August 28th, 2010
    3. My Shiba Inu’s previous problems are mostly fixed now after lots of hard work

      Congratulations! That is very good to hear. The last really serious issue I had with Sephy was his leash biting and it felt so good when I finally got it under control.

      now he has taken to trying to bolt out the door by squeezing between your legs and the door frame.

      Some things that may help -
      1. Double gates/doors. I have installed double gates on my backyard – kindda like what you see in dog parks. Double gates are a great way to do door training because when Shiba squeezes through, he gets nowhere except straight to a time-out. It also makes things very safe. Some people set up a temporary pen right outside the door during training.
      2. Drag lead. Sephy always has a drag lead on (only on a flat collar). That way I have a better chance of catching him when I need to. When I was doing door training, I put on a longer drag lead on Sephy. When he tried to escape I would just step on the lead. If he didn’t try to escape he gets to go on a nice walk and I also played with him outside. This way he learns that -
      Try to escape = No walks and don’t get to go outside, Sit and wait = nice walk in the great outdoots.

      In general, you want to – a) prevent Shiba from getting a successful escape and b) reward Shiba for waiting nicely on doorways. If Shiba escapes, then he gets to be free outside which is a big reward from his point of view. This will definitely spur him on to try more escapes and be more creative in his escape maneuvers. However, if he keeps getting thwarted, and loses his walking privileges, he will think twice before trying anything.

      9:23 am on July 26th, 2010
    4. Lisa

      Hi again!

      My Shiba Inu’s previous problems are mostly fixed now after lots of hard work but now he has taken to trying to bolt out the door by squeezing between your legs and the door frame. We have had him sit EVERY time he enters or exits our home from the time he learned how to sit to try to teach him boundaries. This did not seem to help obviously because now, in the middle of his 8 Month old adolescence, he decided there are just too many new things to find on his own and I’m in fear of him running off or worse, getting hit by a car or biting someone who tries to catch him.

      I need help! He is in obedience training but the trainer could only suggest what we’ve already been doing. I looked up some other websites to help me but they all taught dogs through negative reinforcement which we all know will never work on a Shiba…

      Thank you for any response in this matter!
      Lisa

      8:13 pm on July 25th, 2010
    5. Sounds like you already did a great job with her in terms of training her to “Leave-It” inside the house. Now you can just use similar techniques to train her outside. Dogs don’t tend to generalize commands across different locations – so a Leave-It command inside the house just means Leave-It inside the house. To them, Leave-It outside the house is a totally different command.

      I found that playing the object exchange game is a great way to get my Shiba to voluntarily give him stuff. I also practice Leave-It commands with him outside.

      When I first got Sephy, I used to take things out of his mouth all the time because he was always trying to eat something crappy off the sidewalk or road. This made him get even more possessive about objects when outside, because he associated me coming near him with taking stuff away from him (when he is outside). He was fine inside the house because he usually doesn’t get anything bad inside the house, and I didn’t have to go into his mouth.

      After doing a fair amount of retraining with Sephy he is better outside, but I try to make sure he doesn’t get the chance to pounce on anything bad. In general, it is best to reduce occurrences where you have to forcibly remove objects. In this way, Shiba associates taking away an object with getting something else back that is even better, rather than with losing a prized possession.

      Another thing that helped me with Sephy a lot is bite inhibition training. This really saved me later on when Sephy started doing crazy leash biting and sometimes biting on my hands when he redirected his frustration.

      In the dog run, if someone will a ball comes in, I leave.

      I think that is a very good idea because then, she does not practice her guarding behavior. The less guarding she does, the less likely it will become a habit.

      I would definitely consider getting a trainer to help with this. A trainer can help with timing and setting up training exercises, structure and routine so that we minimize the number of guarding episodes and increase the number of successes. In this way, Shiba learns that people coming near her does not mean that she will lose her items but instead, she will get something even better. Proper management is important so that she is protected from other people who might reach down to her when she is guarding.

      Let us know how it goes.

      7:56 am on June 22nd, 2010
    6. Going Mad

      I have a year old female Shiba Inu. She has great energy and is extremely intelligent. In the house, I can pull things out of her mouth, I can stick my hand in her mouth, I can pull her bowls away from her while eating and invade her space without problem. However, once we’re outside, her “protect my things” switch is flipped. I don’t bring any toys outside with me. But she always tends to find something and claims it. In the dog run, if someone will a ball comes in, I leave. Otherwise, she will grab hold of the ball and become viscous with anyone, even me. She has bitten my boyfriend numerous times when he was trying to get something out of her mouth. Her possession aggression outside of the home is getting very dangerous. HELP!

      4:04 pm on June 20th, 2010
    7. My Shiba inu hates walking on grass

      That is very interesting – Sephy is also like that but only for wet grass. He doesn’t even like playing on wet grass, so in the morning, he will only play inside the house. In fact, after it rains, he will avoid stepping on the wet door-mat when he goes out – lol.

      Sometimes I know he has to poop but he refuses to sniff around to find a spot so he ends up holding it for long periods of time.

      Yeah Sephy is very particular about pooping as well. The stars and moon have to align in exactly the right way before he will do it. He almost never does it in the backyard, and when we are out on a walk, there are only particular places that meet his standards of toilet excellence.

      If there is another dog or person about, or something is not quite right, then we must try again in the next spot – lol. I usually take note of all the good spots.

      I think it is another Shiba quirk :D

      8:42 am on June 6th, 2010
    8. Hello Lisa,
      Yeah, Sephy used to do the Shiba scream with our dog walker. Being a dog walker, having a screaming dog in tow is definitely bad for business, so she would get pretty frustrated when he did that – which made him do it even more. Sephy is very good at sensing our inner energy and pushing the boundaries when he can :D

      BUT if there is a situation that he does not like or if I reach down to him for any reason he unleashes the worst scream I’ve ever heard

      Hmmm, many dogs, especially smaller dogs can feel threatened when we reach for them from above. Here are some of the things I did with Sephy to desensitize him to handling when he was younger -

      http://www.shibashake.com/dog/hug-dog-teach-your-dog-to-enjoy-hugging

      Depending on the situation and reason for screaming – I will sometimes also use the time-out technique for Sephy. If he is just screaming for me to open the door for example, rather than as a result of stress, I will just ignore him or put him in time-out. Initially, he would scream in time-out but after a few times, he learned that this had little effect so nowadays he just gives me the depressed look even though I let him out after a couple of minutes.

      Just make sure the time-out room is far away from the difficult neighbors :D

      8:33 am on June 6th, 2010
    9. Chris

      My Shiba inu hates walking on grass and is perfectly content on the cement. When we take him outside we have to lead him onto the grass to eliminate and then directly after he will fight and pull to go back to the cement. Sometimes I know he has to poop but he refuses to sniff around to find a spot so he ends up holding it for long periods of time. I know they like to be clean but is this a little extreme?

      5:22 pm on June 4th, 2010
    10. Lisa

      Charlie actually enjoys being in his crate… He almost prefers it. Then again about 2 months ago he broke his leg and wasn’t allowed to move at all other than his outdoor business so he had no choice other than liking it because he was in there 24/7 for about 7 to 8 weeks. Something that helped him cope with it, I believe, is because we put a blanket over his kennel so he couldn’t see out which prevented him from seeing any desirable reason to want out. He is crated at night and while we are gone but if we don’t cover his kennel he will whine to and yip for attention to come out.

      5:05 pm on June 4th, 2010
    11. Lisa

      I have a Shiba Inu/American Eskimo Dog (I think he got more shiba genes than eskimo (: ) He is 6 months old this month and he is really well behaved as far as not biting or chewing on non-doggy friendly items or jumping on my 21 month old daughter… BUT if there is a situation that he does not like or if I reach down to him for any reason he unleashes the worst scream I’ve ever heard and even if I don’t let him go and I ignore the behavior until he stops he will do it for up to 10 minutes sometimes… I’ve heard the “shiba scream” in online videos and things but none of them shriek as loud and evil as he does. I wouldnt normally care and we would just ride it out and hope that it goes away when he is older but we have problems with our next door neighbors. They are very picky and look for every little thing and anything they can call and complain about… I fear that they will begin to complain about Charlie and force us to find him a different home. Sometimes he starts doing it outside at me and I have to bring him in quick because I swear it can be heard for miles lol. Does anyone have a similar problem or any advice on how to distract him from screaming without rewarding him for it? HELP please!!

      5:00 pm on June 4th, 2010
    12. Bart

      thanks for the website.
      I think we’ve realized that our shiba is not a dog that can be crated!
      he does value his freedom way to much and its torture to leave him in there.
      so, we’ve gated off a room and he gets to stay in there while we’re at work. he can look out the window and run around and he likes it better. we leave his cage in that room so he can go in and out as he pleases.
      luckily he is not destructive and doesnt use the bathroom indoors.

      the only thing im worried about is that he will claim that room as “his”. he is very dominant sometimes. he’ll nip at your feet when you’re not doing what he wants. but then he gets punished.. either leash correction or time out. but from what ive read, this is typical shiba. he’s such a little brat sometimes, but i love him!

      9:30 am on May 26th, 2010
    13. Yeah, crate training can often be very difficult, especially for a Shiba because they do so love their freedom.

      The thing that helped most with Sephy is to go very slowly. Many times during the day, I would just give him the crate command, he would go in, get rewarded, and I’ll let him come right back out. I did this until he was comfortable with the process, then I would close the door, and open it a few seconds later and let him come out.

      Then I very very slowly lengthened the time he stayed in his crate. After a while, he was comfortable eating a Kong in his crate and staying the duration. Nowadays he goes into his crate on his own at night.

      This article from the Humane Society has some good information on the crate training process -
      http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html

      8:04 am on May 26th, 2010
    14. Bart

      Have you ever encountered any aggression when crating your dog?
      We just started (about 3 weeks now) crating our shiba when we leave the house and at night to sleep. He HATES the crate, even if we bribe him with a kong or other high value treats. He bites when you take him to the room with the crate. Then, once he’s in there, he’ll scream for hours. Any tips to get him to like it?

      6:44 am on May 24th, 2010
    15. Hi Colleen,
      So good to see you.

      But man, he sure is a vocal little thing especially if we’re not giving him what he wants when he wants it.

      LOL – yeah Sephy can be very vocal too although he has quietened down a lot now that he is older.

      In terms of Quiet – it is just like any other command and Shiba will decide whether he wants to follow it or not. To first teach the Quiet command – do something that you know will trigger a vocalization but that will not trigger too extreme a reaction. For example – ringing the doorbell works for a lot of people. Let Shiba vocalize a bit then say Quiet and wait for him to stop. As soon as he stops mark the behavior and reward very well – then keep repeating until Shiba knows what the command means.

      After that it is just a matter of rewards and consequences in terms of whether Shiba will listen or not. There are also several different scenarios in which Sephy vocalizes – e.g. guard mode, whine mode, excited mode, etc.

      When in guard mode he will usually stop once I come to check out what he is barking at. Once he has alerted us, he has done his job so he stops.

      In whine mode – he will stop if he knows I really mean it. Another thing that helps here is to give him something else to do – e.g. go to your mat and stay. If he stays properly for long enough, he gets a good reward. Nowadays, he just goes to the mat on his own when I ignore him. I make sure to reward him when he does that :)

      Excited mode is the hardest so I usually just remove him from the stimulus.

      Strength of stimulus also really matters. When the stimulus is too strong – it is best to leave and that will usually help to quiet things down.

      How is Reptar? How are things going with finding him a girl? ;)

      3:28 pm on May 5th, 2010
    16. Hi Alecia,

      But I was curious if your Shiba has ever had a problem with aggression towards other dogs?

      Yeah – Shiba Sephy can be particular about his dog friends. In general, Shibas do not get along with other dominant dogs. There are also certain things that Shiba Sephy does not like – for example other dogs sniffing his butt. I later learned that especially for dogs that do not know each other well, this can be seen as a dominance move.

      One thing I noticed with Sephy is that he will not try to dominate other dogs, but if other dogs try to dominate him – he will not back-down and will not surrender.

      Some things to look out for -
      1. When both dogs are off leash who is the first to initiate interaction?
      2. Are there particular triggers/behaviors that Shiba dislikes? Sometimes it could just be an invasion of personal space. Shibas are pretty good guard dogs, and like other guard dogs (e.g. German Shepherd) they may not like other dogs crowding their personal space unless invited.

      When I meet outside dogs with Sephy I make sure to only greet more submissive playful dogs. I try to greet often but keep each greeting short. I also watch out for butt sniffing behavior and body block the other dog from doing it.

      For at home, I make sure that there is no bullying, and I interrupt play if it looks like things are becoming too high energy. House rules are that they must play nice and according to my rules. If they don’t, play stops and the one that went overboard gets to go to timeout. I also do not allow humping.

      One thing that may help is to leave drag leads on both dogs (only with a flat collar – *no* training collars). In this way you have more control and they may also act differently. It seems like they understand that when the leash is on, there is more structure and they know what the rules are. Similarly, it will be helpful to set up similar rules and structure for off-leash time.

      Here are some of Shiba Sephy’s experiences with other dogs -
      Socializing a Shiba Inu to Other Dogs
      Dog to Dog Aggression
      Second Dog – Trouble or Fun?

      The important part of keeping the peace at home is to carefully observe the situation and correctly identify which behaviors are causing friction. Often it can also be helpful to get a trained professional to come and observe the dogs interact. A good trainer knows how to read body language and can help accurately identify key stressors.

      1:42 pm on May 5th, 2010
    17. Colleen

      You posted in comment on here that you taught your Shiba to be “Quiet”….How on earth did you accomplish this? Reptar doesn’t scream (that has only happened once at the vet), thank goodness!! But man, he sure is a vocal little thing especially if we’re not giving him what he wants when he wants it. We ignore him and eventually he stops, but it would be wonderful to understand how to teach him “Quiet”.

      6:29 pm on May 4th, 2010
    18. Alecia

      First off, I just wanted to say that I really enjoyed reading your article. But I was curious if your Shiba has ever had a problem with aggression towards other dogs? My boyfriend recently adopted a female Shiba Inu (about 2 years) and she is very sweet and great to take to the park and has never shown aggression towards either of us. The only problem is that I too have a dog, a female lab who is generally never aggressive (though fairly dominant). They walk side by side with absolutely no problem at parks or around the neighborhood, but with my dog off the leash the Shiba Inu turns into a completely different dog (growling, snarling, lunging at her). We are trying to deal with this behavior but we are having some difficulties. Please let me know if you have any advice for this- I feel as though we’re never going to be able to have our dogs off leash together.

      6:14 pm on May 4th, 2010
    19. Hi Phillip,

      Should we try to do something about the first dog’s screaming?

      It may be best to stop it now before it becomes a habit.

      If she screams and you open the door for her after she has screamed for a certain duration, then she learns that – if I keep screaming long enough I get to go out. This encourages her to keep screaming and for longer periods of time. Your other Shiba may also observe this, and start following that behavior.

      What worked for me is to let my Shiba only vocalize once, then I tell him to Quiet (you may need to teach her the command first in a separate session). As soon as he quiets down, I ask him to sit, then I open the door for him. Then you can slowly increase the time that she has to stay quiet.

      If she continues to scream then just ignore her. It is best not to give her anything (even your attention) when she is displaying undesirable behaviors. If she escalates and starts jumping on people or biting people then calmly put her in timeout.

      In this way she learns the if she stays quiet she gets to go out, and if not, she doesn’t get anything.

      8:47 am on March 27th, 2010
    20. Phillip

      We have two Shiba Inus, and one of them will scream to get outside and to get back inside. We think it is fine that she makes a loud noise when she wants in because that is probably the best way for us to know that they are ready to come back in, but do you think it is something we should stop within the house. She only does it to get out, and the other Shiba never does it for anything that she wants. She’ll just prance around and look up at everyone in the room. She easily makes it clear that she wants to go outside without any noise. She also will wait for someone to walk by the door, then run to it to alert us that she is ready.
      Should we try to do something about the first dog’s screaming?

      8:57 pm on March 24th, 2010
    21. Derik and Kitsune

      Thanks a lot for all you help! I’ll let you know how it goes!

      1:50 pm on August 22nd, 2009
    22. There is a lot here – so please let me know if you have more questions.
      Oh yeah, energy is extremely important with a Shiba. Shibas are very sensitive to the energy of the people around them. Calm is the best energy for a Shiba when they are acting out – anything else will make them go even more nuts. :)

      1:49 pm on August 22nd, 2009
    23. Hello Derik,
      Congratulations on your new Shiba pup :) As you have noticed, they are small in size, but large in personality.
      1. “how do you correct for a puppy jumping on a person even if it is in joy?”
      When your puppy jumps, simply tell the person to ignore him and turn away from him. It is important to practice no talk, no touch, and no eye-contact (no eye-contact is very important because that can be seen as attention). Just fold up your arms and turn away. It is also important not to step back because that will encourage the puppy to keep jumping forward. Just stand in place and turn away. As soon as he displays good behavior – i.e. non jumping behavior, mark him (Yes), and reward him with affection. As soon as he jumps again – go back to ignoring. This will teach the puppy that jumping gets him ignored but not jumping gets him attention.

      2. Mouthiness
      Shibas are a very mouthy breed. This article deals with puppy biting -
      http://www.shibashake.com/dog/puppy-biting-how-to-stop-puppy-biting

      3. Time-out
      If you don’t have a good room to put him in on time-out you can also try putting him on a tie-down. Just have a tie down in a boring place in a house where he can’t get to anything. I used to have a tie-down in my kitchen. So whenever I had to do a time-out, I would just clip his collar to the tie-down.

      4. Shiba scream –
      Shibas can also be somewhat vocal. Firstly, try to understand why Shiba is vocalizing. Sometimes Shibas will vocalize to alert you to strange noises or to something else being wrong.
      Sometimes however, Shibas use the screaming and whining to get what they want and to get attention. My Shiba has used it on dog walkers, dog trainers, etc to good effect. Don’t give in to the attention-seeking Shiba scream. Just ignore it, and Shiba will stop after he gets no response.
      I don’t think that the screaming is a challenge. The Shiba puppy is just trying out different behaviors to see which ones get him the best results. Many people give in to the Shiba scream, which will make Shiba practice that behavior more and more. If Shiba does not get a response, he will move on to something else.
      Here is an article on my training experiences with my Shiba -

      http://www.shibashake.com/dog/shiba-inu-training-secrets

      5. Shiba play
      It is best not to do any rough-play with a Shiba Inu, especially in the beginning. I don’t do any rough-play with my Shiba. I also do not play tug-of-war with him.
      Here are some ideas for Shiba play -
      http://www.shibashake.com/dog/dog-play-fun-games-to-play-with-your-dog-or-puppy

      My Shiba likes playing the flirt-pole and the water-hose game. Make sure you have strict game rules though, and make sure to stop very often and ask him for obedience commands so that he doesn’t get over-excited. The obedience commands will also teach him that play is contingent on doing what you want first.

      1:48 pm on August 22nd, 2009
    24. Derik and Kitsune

      I guess in the end, I want to have him follow my rules without making him fear me. It sounds like too much to ask but I think it is possible. I just need footing to gain some momentum. Just to let you know this behavior really shows it’s face when he is extremely hyper or when a friend of mine plays with him. For some reason he just goes crazy around her!

      1:47 pm on August 22nd, 2009
    25. Derik and Kitsune

      Hi, I love your site, it is extrememly helpful!

      I just got a 10 week old Shiba pup and I’ve had him for a few days now and I want to train him right. Now, he doesn’t do this to me except when I let him out of his crate every now and then, but how do you correct for a puppy jumping on a person even if it is in joy? Also, when he does this he sometimes becomes quite mouthy, what should I do? Also, from what I’ve noticed, when I tell him no, like when he chews on my hand or something he isn’t supposed to chew on, he responds negatively and summons the dreaded Shiba scream. Is this him challenging my authority as pack leader? If so, how should I respond to this beavior? And I really don’t have a room that I can use as time out, what method would you recommend for correction?

      1:46 pm on August 22nd, 2009
    26. Absolutely :) Thanks for all your comments rchicaferro. They provoke much thought, and that is an invaluable thing!

      1:45 pm on May 22nd, 2009
    27. rchicaferro

      Lots of important points! Well done!

      This ties in very nicely with your other HUB on not treating your pets like people – As much as we love our dogs they are not people and they require a lot of time and training to make their lives (and ours) more enjoyable.

      1:44 pm on May 22nd, 2009
    28. Ha! ha! ha! ha! ha! ha! ha! ha! ha! ha! ha! (transleted from LOL!)

      1:43 pm on May 22nd, 2009
    29. Quicksand! I haven’t seen you in ages. Been missing your ugly mug :-)

      What have you been up to?

      1:42 pm on May 22nd, 2009
    30. Good to see you Peggy. Yeah I really regret how things went with my first dog. I think it would have turned out better for everyone if I did A LOT more research before getting a dog.

      At least the second one got a smoother ride. I guess it is always toughest to be the first – in most things :)

      1:41 pm on May 22nd, 2009
    31. Thanks Tom. I don’t think you will really need it. Most dogs come with a pretty good temperament and it is usually the dog owners – like me :) – who inadvertently make them aggressive.

      1:40 pm on May 22nd, 2009
    32. You have a way with dogs. You are really brave! :)

      1:39 pm on May 22nd, 2009
    33. It is debatable whether we have EVER been the pack leaders but fortunately for us we have had a number of sweet and lovable dogs. Good article.

      1:38 pm on May 22nd, 2009
    34. This is a great article. We want to get a dog someday, so I will keep this as one of the reference I will use during training.

      1:37 pm on May 22nd, 2009
    35. Thanks Iphigenia! Sadly, the aggression was primarily my fault. I did not do enough research initially and used the wrong dog training methods with him. Luckily, he is a small dog, so although it was not very pleasant, I was at least able to handle it :)

      “he and his owner go everywhere together – the owner on rollerblades being pulled by the dog…. ”

      lol – gotta love Siberian Huskies. I usually jog along with mine, but I think rollerblades are probably more her speed. And Sibes can *really pull* :D

      1:36 pm on May 22nd, 2009
    36. Whilst I found this interesting – and so well written, researched and illustrated to your usual excellent standard – I could not imagine ever coping with an large aggressive dog. I have two dogs who are not submissve but have never displayed aggression. They have just accepted me as their food provider and carer – they seem to trust me implicitely and do what I say … but that is not because I have been good at setting myself up as the leader of the pack – I have been lucky in the dogs that I’ve homed.

      Thanks for another great read – BTW – there is a beautiful Siberian Husky in one of the neighbouring villages, he and his owner go everywhere together – the owner on rollerblades being pulled by the dog….

      1:35 pm on May 22nd, 2009

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