Because Sephy was so confident, stubborn, and independent, I started with aversive training techniques. In this article, I talk about three common dog training methods that I used on Sephy, and why I have stopped using them.

• Touching the dog’s flank.
• Leash corrections, collar corrections, or leash jerks.
• Holding a dog to the ground (also known as the alpha roll).

Shiba Inu Sephy – the terror that flaps in the night.

1. Touch the Dog’s Flank

This technique is commonly used to stop a dog from obsessing on an external stimulus (e.g. another dog, a cat, a person). Reactive or aggressive dogs often start by actively searching for something to focus on. Once a target is acquired, the dog gets extremely still, and will stare unblinking at the object.

During this time, the dog will not give attention to anything else, even food.

From here, the dog can explode in a burst of energy and lunge after his target when it gets within range.

Shiba Inu Sephy obsessing on an external stimulus.

I try to stop my dog as early as possible, and redirect him onto something else. If I wait too long, he will lose control and practice reactive/aggressive behavior, that he will then be more prone to repeat.

Initially, I was able to break my Shiba Inu from focusing on objects by touching his flank (startle response). After a few times however, he got habituated to it and would just ignore the touch.

The best technique, I have found, for avoiding reactive/aggressive triggers, is to ignore those objects myself, and just move my dog along. There are a variety of other techniques for dealing with dog-to-dog aggression and other aggression triggers.

The best technique, I have found, for avoiding reactive/aggressive triggers, is to ignore those objects myself, and just move my dog along.

A variation on the touch, is what is known as the finger jab. Instead of a touch or tap, some trainers direct clients to apply a hard jab to the dog. While the two techniques may sound similar, they actually work quite differently.

Unlike a touch, finger jabs are very dependent on the amount of physical force applied. We want to apply the right amount of force, so that our dog has an aversive response. Too weak a jab and our dog will just ignore it, and too strong a jab may cause stress, fear, and more.

Finger jabs are a pain based technique, and as such, all the risks of aversive methods are present as well.

Finger jabs are a pain based aversive technique, and as such all the risks of such techniques apply.

2. Leash Correction, Collar Correction, Leash Jerk

Leash corrections are very difficult to implement with the proper timing, with the proper force, and with the proper technique. I received many private lessons on how to perform leash jerks, and I was still not doing it correctly.

Firstly, and most importantly, the collar correction has to be a quick jerk or snap. There is only tension for an extremely short amount of time (a quarter-second or less), and then the leash should be loose again.

Most people tend to do tugs rather than jerks, which have very little effect on the dog. Instead, it may exacerbate the situation, because there is continuous tension on the leash, causing the dog to get more tense and frustrated.

Secondly, we must be properly positioned for the jerk so that the force is always to the side, rather than directly back. Jerking to the back, may encourage the dog to lunge forward to oppose the force.

Leash corrections are very difficult to implement with the proper timing, with the proper force, and with the proper technique.

It cannot be so soft that our dog does not notice it or gets habituated to it.

My leash jerks were always too soft, and my Shiba Inu quickly got habituated to it. Instead of improving his behavior, my dog just got frustrated and aggressive whenever I did a leash correction. He would jump and bite on the leash. Ultimately, it got so bad that he would jump on me and bite on my jacket sleeve.

Some people use a martingale collar, prong collar, or choke chain to help them perform more accurate leash jerks, with greater force. I used both the martingale and the prong. However, as with the flat collar, results were good at first, but degraded after my dog got accustomed to the increased force from the prong.

The collar correction may be more appropriate for a less strong-willed breed, but it did not work well on my stubborn Shiba Inu. As with other pain based aversive techniques, leash corrections can also cause our dog to lose trust in us, and develop other behavioral problems, including aggression.

The collar correction may be more appropriate for a less strong-willed breed, but it did not work well on my stubborn Shiba Inu.

3. Alpha Roll

The alpha roll involves holding or pinning our dog down until he surrenders, gives up, or shuts down.

It is extremely difficult to implement an alpha roll well and in the proper circumstance. In the hands of most pet owners, alpha rolls frequently gets overused and misused.

My Shiba Inu got really stressed (wild eyes, mouthing, screaming, flailing) whenever I did this on him. Even after he relaxed, he got very detached afterwards, and it did not seem to have any effect on his bad dog behaviors. In fact, alpha rolls made things worse because my dog became extremely sensitive towards human touch.

After a lot of counter-conditioning work, he is a bit better today, but is still skittish of heavy handling and restraint. I am slowly working to gain back the enormous amount of trust I lost by using the alpha roll technique.

This may “look” like an alpha roll, but it was just a fun scratch session. I have not performed alpha rolls since things worked out so badly for Sephy.

Even the Monks of New Skete, who were the first to popularize the alpha roll, have recently said that they regretted putting this technique in their book because it has been misused.

Alpha rolls should only be used by expert trainers, who are really good at reading dogs, and only as a last resort for dealing with dogs that do not respond to anything else.

Unfortunately, this technique has gotten more popular again, because of television training shows.

I see many people using it in dog parks, dog trails, and vet offices for minor offenses, or not even real offenses at all. The most frequent case of alpha rolls occur when a rude dog runs up to invade another dog’s space. The invaded dog naturally starts vocalizing to warn the rude dog off, and tell him that his rude behavior is unacceptable. This is all perfectly natural canine behavior.

Nevertheless, the growling dog gets alpha rolled by his owners, in front of the rude dog. This can erode our dog’s trust in us, because not only did we not protect him from the rude dog, but we are also punishing him for trying to protect himself. It also teaches our dog not to growl in the future, and to go directly into an attack or a bite.

Alpha rolls are dangerous, erodes trust, and may cause additional dog behavioral problems.

I have never seen it make things better, and have seen many instances of it making things worse. Even when expert trainers did this on my Shiba Inu, he did not respond well. It did not stop his bad behaviors, and only encouraged more aggression. Violence begets more violence.

Alpha rolls make for a good television show, but given the extreme risks, both physical and mental, to the dog and the trainer, I would stay away from this technique. I would also stay away from trainers who recommend its use.

My dogs respond best to resource management techniques.

What Worked Best with My Shiba Inu

Resource management techniques combined with a consistent set of rules and a fixed routine has worked well for Sephy. He is not perfect, but his behavior has improved significantly, and he is happy and relaxed.

I no longer use finger jabs, leash corrections, or alpha rolls on any of my dogs.

What Worked Best with My Dogs

• We discourage undesired behaviors by applying an aversive or unpleasant stimulus (positive punishment), and
• We encourage desired behaviors by stopping the aversive stimulus (negative reinforcement).

Different aversive methods may place more or less stress on our dog. In general, pain based methods are the most stressful.

Aversive Dog Training.

Aversive Dog Training – Good 1

May get more consistent and prompt responses to commands.

As with any animal, a dog is very sensitive to danger and threats, because they are especially crucial to survival in the wild. When faced with a stressful stimulus (e.g. pain or a dominance threat), a dog will most likely try to resolve the situation quickly, so that he may return to a safe and comfortable state.

Many dogs will consistently perform a Sit, Down, or Stay, because they do not wish to endure pain and stress. Once we get consistent and prompt responses from our dog, we can give him more freedom, and let him participate in a wider range of activities.

Many aversive dog trainers point out, that a good command response is crucial when we are yelling Stop, and our dog is running into traffic.

Note however, that even extreme pain does not always guarantee full behavioral control. In addition, inaccurate timing and mistakes in training, may result in even poorer command control, as well as increased aggression. Therefore, the best way to prevent a dog from running into traffic, is through proper equipment (e.g. doors and leashes), and proper management.

Aversive Dog Training – Good 2

May show results in a shorter time-span.

As described above, dogs can be very motivated to avoid an aversive stimulus, especially pain. Therefore, we will probably start to see results to simple commands, in a shorter period of time.

In fact, a dog will respond best in the initial obedience training sessions.

Performance may degrade later, once our dog gets used to or habituated to the aversive stimulus.

Aversive Dog Training – Good 3

Do not need to carry around rewards such as treats or toys.

We always have what we need with us – our hands, collar, and leash.

Aversive dog training may show results in a shorter time-span.

Aversive Dog Training – Bad 1

May cause loss of trust.

One of the most dangerous aspects of aversive dog training is losing our dog’s trust.

Care must be taken not to over-correct him. We always want to try and set our dog up for success, and reduce the chances of him making mistakes. If we are seen as the frequent source of unpleasant things, he will lose trust in us, and may start to avoid us.

The trick of implementing aversive methods is redirection. We want to make it seem like the source of unpleasantness is not coming from us, but is a direct result of his inappropriate actions.

For example, spraying bitter apple on furniture is an effective and safe aversive method, because the dog does not associate the smelly furniture with us. Instead, he discovers on his own, that certain pieces of wood and stuffing have an unpleasant taste, so it is best to avoid them.

As soon as our dog complies with our command, we want to follow up an aversive correction with praise and rewards. This shows him that we are also the source of positive attention and good things.

When using aversive obedience training, timing is crucial.

Time our aversive correction and subsequent praise, accurately. In this way, our dog does will not get confused and frustrated, because he will know what the aversive stimulus is for, and how he can make it go away.

Aversive Dog Training – Bad 2

May encourage aggression and other unwanted side effects.

There are four ways a dog can deal with the stress of an aversive stimulus – fight, flight, freeze, or appease. Depending on the temperament of our dog, and his level of trust and respect for us, he may choose to fight or flee, rather than follow a command (appease).

We can correct this by refining our aversive technique. In particular, ensure that we are –

• Using the appropriate level of force,
• Using the right timing,
• Not over-correcting, and
• Redirecting the source of correction away from ourselves.

If a dog continuously chooses to fight, then we are encouraging aggression in him, and he may ultimately become a dangerous dog. If a dog continuously chooses to run away (flight), then we may break his spirit, and he may become a fearful and unstable dog.

If we are not careful, our dog may also associate the aversive stimulus to objects in the environment, or to the environment itself. For example, if a leash jerk is always applied whenever he sees another dog, he may start to associate the pain with the other dog, rather than to his lunging and jumping actions. This may make him aggressive or fearful toward other dogs.

In fact, this University of Pennsylvania 2009 study shows that at least 25% of the dogs that are trained with confrontational methods, exhibit aggression during training.

“This study highlights the risk of dominance-based training, which has been made popular by TV, books and punishment-based training advocates,”Herron said. “These techniques are fear-eliciting and may lead to owner-directed aggression.”

Aversive Dog Training may encourage aggression and other unwanted side effects.

Aversive Dog Training – Bad 3

May injure our dog if not implemented correctly.

When we are using an aversive collar such as a choke chain or prong collar, make sure to consult a trainer on how to fit it, and properly use it. The choke chain is especially dangerous as it can cause harm with extended use, even when fitted properly.

All pain and dominance-based aversive methods, are best implemented under the direction of a trained professional.

Incorrect implementation of some of these techniques, may cause physical harm to our dog, as well as physical harm to us and others, if the dog becomes aggressive.

Aversive Dog Training – Bad 4

May become ineffective once our dog gets habituated to the aversive stimulus.

If we overuse an aversive method, our dog will probably become habituated to it. Once this occurs, he will be less motivated to respond to our commands, because he has become used to experiencing a certain level of pain.

At this point, increasing the force of our aversive stimulus may be necessary, and this will increase wear and tear on our dog. To avoid this possibility, apply the proper amount of force from the beginning (not too hard or too soft). The actual force needed will depend on the reason for the correction, and on the temperament of our dog.

It is best to get a professional trainer to show us the proper amount of force needed, so that we do not over-correct or under-correct our dog.

What do you think of aversive dog training?

Aversive methods are more visceral, and have a more pronounced effect, especially in the short term. However, as described above, pain based techniques are also risky and can increase aggression in our dogs. Pain will also increase stress and lower quality of life.

Does aversive dog training work?

It depends on what we mean by work.

If we are interested in providing a good quality of life for our dog, then it is best to apply reward training methods, which are safer and leads to a strong dog-human bond.

Walking has not been very fun lately.

Both the Pungent-One and the Female in my pack have started to jerk my leash during walks. Sometimes this happens very often.

Walks are more fun without the constant pain in the neck.

It is painful especially when the Pungent-Male does it. When the-Female one does it, it is merely annoying. I am getting really irritated by this.

For now, I will give them the benefit of the doubt. They seem pretty clueless and do not know any better. But this cannot continue indefinitely – ultimately, I am going to have to show them the error of their ways.

It is exactly behavior like this that makes 2-legs strange, incomprehensible, and untrustworthy.

2-legs do not understand that if I wanted to, I could also use aversive techniques on them, and I am much better and more accurate at applying my bites than they will ever be.

I am much better and more accurate at applying aversive techniques than 2-legs will ever be. Look at my teeth!

If they do not want me to bite them, then it is only fair that they show me the same courtesy.

But 2-legs is only 2-legs. They are slow to learn, so I will give them some time.

Plus, they give me cheese … For the sake of cheese I will be patient, use small words, and speak very slowly. I will go now and have a dream about cheese … ummmm CHEESE.

Shiba Sephy dreaming about cheese.

Shiba Wisdom
Dear 2-legs,

You have thin skin, weak legs, and small teeth. You cannot run very fast, are easily hurt, and have weak, inaccurate bites. In a fair physical fight, you cannot win. So why do you choose this way of fighting?

I have been doing some reading on 2-legs and I know you have big brains and can do some things better than I can – like make cheese! If I were you I would focus on brain and cheese skills.

If you choose to fight, and force me to fight back, then everybody will lose in the end.

If you choose to fight, and force me to fight back, then everybody will lose. If you give me trust and respect, I will also return in kind.

This choice will affect the happiness and well-being of our dog, as well as shape our long-term relationship with our furry best friend.

Dog training is an area where emotions run hot, and we will hear many strong opinions or judgments from just about anyone and everyone.

Dog Obedience Training - Good and Bad

Reward dog training is very effective with Shiba Inu Sephy.

The key to dog obedience training is not to be overly influenced by any one source. Gather information on a variety of methods, from a variety of sources, then judge which is the best one for you and your dog.

Some people may tell us that, “Obedience method X will never work for our dog, because he is too dominant, stubborn, fearful, or aggressive“.

Simplistic statements like these are never true. It is better to research the training method ourselves, and form our own opinion.

Basically, there are two classes of dog obedience training:

1. Reward obedience training (give/remove something that our dog likes), and
2. Aversive obedience training (give/remove something that our dog dislikes).

Dog Obedience Training – Reward and Aversive.

Reward Obedience Training

With reward obedience training, we first identify what our dog likes. Then, we encourage or discourage various behaviors by granting (positive reinforcement) or taking away (negative punishment) access to these rewards.

For example, when our dog sits, he gets a dog treat. If our dog is calm, he gets to interact with other dogs. We stop our dog from chewing on shoes, by redirecting him onto a Kong toy. Which rewards work best, depends on our dog’s personality and on his breed.

My Shiba Inu, for example, is a hunting breed and he is very motivated by chasing games. He also likes to explore new environments, and interact with other dogs. I will often use these as rewards while training him.

One common misconception is that we will not be an effective pack leader if we only use reward obedience training.

This is FALSE.

Pack leadership is most effectively achieved through the control of resources. We teach our dog that he gets the things that he wants most, such as food, toys, access to locations, and access to pack members, by following our lead.

Reward Obedience Training.

Reward Obedience Training – The Good

Reward Obedience Training - The Good.

1. Reward training helps to build a strong relationship based on trust.

Reward techniques teach a dog that all good things come from us. To get what he wants, he must first do what *we* want. Since we are viewed as a source for all of his needs, our dog will naturally gravitate toward us.

In addition, a dog learns that he has to work for his own keep. This engages him in interesting activities, helps him stay sharp, and helps to build confidence.

Reward obedience training helps to build a relationship based on trust.

2. Reward training will not damage our dog either physically or mentally.

With reward training, the worst that happens is the removal of a reward. In contrast, physical aversive methods can cause damage to a dog, especially when not implemented properly.

Long term use of leash corrections may cause harm to our dog even when properly applied.

3. Reward training helps to create a dog that is happy and eager to work.

When we only use reward methods, our dog will be eager to work because work time means reward time.

Reward obedience training helps to create a dog that is happy and eager to work.

Reward Obedience Training – The Bad

Reward Obedience Training - The Bad.

1. Reward training may not always solicit a prompt response to our commands.

For some dogs, a reward may not be as strong a motivator as an aversive stimulus, such as pain or fear.

Reward obedience training may not always solicit a prompt response to our commands.

2. . Reward training may sometimes require us to think outside the box.

With reward techniques, we may need to get creative and come up with our own strategies for motivating our dog. This is especially true when we are trying to stop bad behaviors because our dog may derive more enjoyment from the bad act.

Reward obedience training may sometimes require creativity to out-think our dog.

3. Reward training may require that we bring along some treats or toys when on walks and outings.

This can be an inconvenience. However, we can also use the environment, and the objects around us as incentives. All it takes is a bit more imagination, and a bit more understanding of our dog.

4. Reward training may cause our dog to gain weight.

Obesity can sometimes become a problem if we give our dog too many treats. I easily avoid this by using my dog’s regular food rations as part of his training rewards.

Reward obedience training may cause our dog to gain weight.

Aversive Obedience Training

I divide aversive obedience training into three classes:

1. Pain based (e.g. leash correction, muzzle slaps, ear pinch, shock collar);
2. Dominance based (e.g. alpha rolls); and
3. Other – which includes making loud noises (e.g. shaking or dropping a can of pennies, loud horn, clashing pots), using unpleasant smells (e.g. spraying bitter apple on furniture, spraying citronella on muzzle), using unpleasant sensations (spraying water on muzzle, dumping water on body) or anything else that our dog dislikes.

Different aversive methods may place more or less stress on our dog. In general, pain and dominance based methods are the most stressful.

With aversive obedience training, we encourage or discourage behaviors by applying (positive punishment) or stopping (negative reinforcement) an unpleasant stimulus.

For example, if our dog breaks from his stay before we release him, we give him a leash jerk. If our dog starts biting on the leash, we give him a leash jerk, or spray water on his muzzle until he stops. If he jumps, we give him a leash jerk or knee him.

Cesar Millan, one of the most popular dog trainers on television, uses mostly aversive obedience training. Millan has a lot of confidence, as well as a natural talent for reading dogs. This is very important when applying aversive techniques because if they are not implemented properly, they may cause physical and mental harm.

There are a variety of other trainers that use a combination of both reward and aversive techniques, such as The Monks of New Skete.

If aversive training methods are not implemented properly, they may cause physical and mental harm.

Aversive Obedience Training – The Good

Aversive Obedience Training - The Good.

1. Aversive training may get more consistent and prompt responses to commands.

Many dogs will perform a Sit, Down, or Stay, consistently and quickly because they do not wish to face the stress of an aversive stimulus. Once we get consistent and prompt responses from our dog, we can give him more freedom and let him participate in a wider range of activities.

2. Aversive training may show results in a shorter time-span.

As described above, dogs can be very motivated to avoid pain and threats. We will probably start to see results in a shorter period of time compared to reward training.

3. Do not need to carry around rewards such as treats or toys.

We always have what we need.

A leash and a secure backyard are probably more effective than aversive obedience training for keeping a dog from running into traffic.

Aversive Obedience Training – The Bad

Aversive Obedience Training - The Bad.

1. Aversive training may cause loss of trust.

One of the most dangerous aspects of aversive techniques is losing our dog’s trust. If we over-correct our dog, he may start to associate us with the painful aversive stimulus, and lose trust in us.

Shiba Inu Sephy was a lot less trusting when we applied aversive obedience training.

2. Aversive training may encourage aggression and other unwanted side effects.

If we do not implement an aversive method with the proper timing, force, and redirection, our dog may develop aggression toward us and other people. A recent University of Pennsylvania study shows that if we are aggressive to our dogs, they will be more likely to develop aggression issues.

Follow up an aversive correction with praise and rewards.

3. Aversive training may injure our dog if not implemented correctly.

Incorrect implementation of some of these techniques may cause physical harm to our dog. It may also cause physical harm to us and others, when the dog responds to the aversive stimulus with aggression.

4. Aversive training may become ineffective once our dog gets habituated to the stimulus.

If we overuse an aversive method, it is very probable that our dog will become habituated to it (e.g. he becomes used to the pain). Once this occurs, the dog will be less motivated to respond to our commands because the pain or aversive stimulus is no longer a strong enough deterrent.

Aversive obedience training may encourage aggression and other unwanted side effects.

Dog Obedience Training

Carefully consider which techniques are most suited for you and your dog. Be flexible and do not be afraid to change approaches if the current methods are ineffective, or start to cause aggressive dog behavior.

There are four dog obedience training choices:

1. Mostly aversive training with little praise and few treats (Cesar Millan).
2. Only reward training (Suzanne Clothier, Patricia McConnell, Ian Dunbar, Victoria Stillwell).
3. Mixture of aversive and reward training (Monks of New Skete);
4. Only no-pain and no-dominance aversive methods, combined with reward training.

I use reward obedience training with my dogs and it works out great.