When people talk about dog socialization, they usually mean dog-to-dog socialization. In other words, introducing a dog to many other balanced dogs so that he can learn proper social skills and be confident when meeting new canine friends.

However, dog socialization is much more than that.

Dog socialization is teaching our dogs to be comfortable and confident with his environment, the objects in his environment, people in his environment, and also other dogs in his environment.

In fact, a well socialized dog will not only be comfortable in his regular routine, but will also be confident enough to handle new situations and changes in his routine.

Dog Socialization – What, Why, How
Source: ShibaShake Dog Pictures

The goal of dog socialization is to build our dog’s confidence by exposing him to a variety of experiences in a positive context.

If we simply throw as many new things as possible at our dog, without care for the quality of the experience, he may be forced to constantly cope with fear, uncertainly, and negativity. This will teach him to fear new things, which is the opposite of what dog socialization is about.

Indeed the goal of dog socialization is to acclimatize our dogs to unusual circumstances and give them new tools to handle stress, anxiety, or perceived danger other than through fight or flight.

The goal of dog socialization is to build our dog’s confidence by exposing him to a variety of experiences in a positive context.

Why Is Dog Socialization a Good Thing?

Is dog socialization really such a good thing?

Recently, dog socialization has become a popular dog rearing concept. Proud dog parents, dog trainers, dog behaviorists, breeders, vet technicians, and everyone else in between is talking about it. However,

• Is dog socialization really such a good thing?
• Do we really need to socialize our dogs? Why?

There are many advantages to socializing our dog.

• Socialization allows us to include our dogs in more trips and fun activities. This increases time spent with our dogs and creates a deeper bond that is based on shared experiences.
• Socialization allows us to integrate our dogs more fully into our daily lives. In this way we get to enjoy more of our dog’s company and vice versa.
• Socialization creates a more balanced dog that can do well with other caretakers when we are away on emergencies or vacations.
• Socialization allows our dogs to live a more stress free and happy life. A confident dog who is not afraid new things will be able to experience more and enjoy his regular routine without the constant stress of threats and fears.

Why Is Dog Socialization a Good Thing?

Dog Socialization – How?

1. Slow and steady wins the race.

Some people think that dog socialization, like speed dating, is all about cramming as many new experiences as possible in the shortest amount of time.

However, if we go too fast we may undermine our dog’s self-confidence rather than build it. Conversely, being overly protective may result in our dog being under-socialized.

Therefore, we must strike a good balance between the two and go at a pace that our dog is comfortable with. Not too fast that he will be overwhelmed but not so slow that he becomes afraid of new experiences.

With dog socialization, we want to go at a pace that our dog is comfortable with.

2. Stay Positive.

When socializing my dogs, I try to set them up for success.

When socializing my dogs, I try to set them up for success. I only introduce them to situations where I am confident they can handle, and I try to make social training exercises as controlled as possible.

For example, during dog-play, I keep groups small and make sure there are many play breaks. This ensures that the dogs do not get over-excited and lose control of themselves. I also pick friendly dogs with similar play styles.

All this helps my dog associate other dogs with positive experiences and teaches him to stay in control even when he is excited.

However, we may not always be able to control our dog’s environment. Mistakes will happen. When things start to turn negative, it is important to have a plan-B. When plan-B fails, I try to have a plan-C, D, and E in my back-pocket.

If I cannot achieve a fully positive experience, I try to create a neutral experience. If the situation has turned negative, I cut our losses as soon as possible, and go home to rest and recuperate.

Enclosed dog parks have become popular recently because they are seen as the solution for preventing dog-to-dog aggression. However, if not properly managed, a young dog may end up learning bad habits from the other dogs at the park instead. He may even get involved in skirmishes or fights.

Enclosed dog parks have many dogs together in a relatively small amount of space. There is little to no control in terms of a dog’s age, energy level, and temperament. As a result, dog parks can be chaotic and unpredictable.

During dog-play, I keep groups small and make sure there are many play breaks.

3. Keep the lines of communication open.

Each and every dog is an individual with his own quirks and preferences. Some dogs are social butterflies, some dogs are naturally calm, and some dogs are more anxious and unsure of themselves. Some dogs may cope well with meeting people, but become fearful when faced with loud or strange noises.

To successfully socialize our dogs, we must listen to them and tailor our training to suit their individual strengths and weaknesses.

Keep the lines of communication open.

Dogs communicate by using their entire bodies.

By observing us and smelling us, our dogs can tell a lot about our current mental and physical state.

People communicate with each other mostly through words and symbols (text). Dogs communicate by using their entire bodies. Dogs tell us what they are feeling by the way they hold and move their tails, by the position of their ears, by the shape of their bodies, by the tension on their faces, and sometimes by their growls, howls, and barks.

We also convey a lot of information through our own body language. By observing us and smelling us, our dogs can tell a lot about our current mental and physical state. However, because we are so dependent on words and symbols, we usually do not develop our skills at reading body language.

A big part of socializing our dogs involves learning their language. How else will we know when to push, when to stop, and when to give comfort?

My dog bit a child’s face out of nowhere.

To us, it may seem like the bite comes out of nowhere, but that is almost never the case. Dogs tell us, and tell us, and tell us; but we do not hear. Ultimately, they feel they must take matters into their own paws.

My dogs listen to me very closely. When I am sad, they give me licks and their silent but solid support. I am not as good at reading their feelings, but I try my best to observe my dogs and listen to what they are saying.

Dogs have learned to read and understand us, the least we can do is try to understand them in return.

Dogs have learned to read and understand us, the least we can do is try to understand them in return.

Dog Socialization Process

Socializing a dog, especially a fearful dog can sometimes be a slow, frustrating, and challenging process. Often, two steps forward is followed by one or even two steps back.

We will make mistakes, our dog will make mistakes, and it may seem like things will never get better.

My Shiba Inu Sephy was a very difficult dog to socialize and handle. He is still very particular about meeting and greeting other dogs, and he sometimes still loses control when under stress. However, things are definitely much better today than they were when we first got him. He is a lot calmer, he tries to keep control, and he stops himself from biting on people even though it is his instinct to do so.

Dog socialization is not a competition for the best dog parent award. It is however, a good way to improve the quality of life for our dogs, for ourselves, and to strengthen our bond with our most loyal and furry companion.

Dog socialization is a good way to improve the quality of life for our dogs, for ourselves, and to strengthen our bond with our most loyal and furry companion.

There are many reasons why a dog may act aggressively toward another.

• He may be afraid.
• He may be stressed because his space is being violated.
• He may feel the need to dominate.
• He may be protective of us.
• He may be very curious.
• He may just be over-excited.

Sometimes, what we perceive to be aggression may be the result of hyper energy, eagerness, or natural inquisitiveness. Therefore, in dog-to-dog aggression cases, it is important to understand what our dog is feeling, and what he is trying to say.

When my dog meets a new dog, I observe both of them carefully. As soon as my dog starts to get stressed, I step in and interrupt before the situation escalates.

For dog aggression issues, it is best to take a dog’s age, health, temperament, and preferences into account, while coming up with appropriate solutions.

1. Be Calm and Decisive

Be calm and do not put continuous tension on the leash.

Dogs are very sensitive to what their human is feeling. My dog picks up on my emotions and reflects them, except with much more intensity. Sometimes, I am not even conscious of feeling nervous or stressed, but my dog notices it and starts to act up. Once I consciously calm myself down, his behavior also improves.

A common mistake when meeting other dogs is to tense up, and get fearful of what our dog may do. If we are afraid, our dog will pick up on that fearful energy, and that will likely trigger an aggressive reaction.

Be careful not to put undue or continuous tension on the leash. Also, do not pull the dog straight back, as that will likely cause a lunge forward response. To remove my dog, I pull him to the side and quickly walk him past the other dog.

2. Teach Our Dog Avoidance

Teach our dog avoidance.

Do not let our dog obsess on the other dog.

When I see another dog, I usually just ignore him and move along.

I have found that avoidance is most effective when I avert my eyes from both dog, as well as owner. I keep my eyes forward, and keep walking at a natural pace. In this way, my dog learns that when we see other dogs, we avoid rather than confront.

Be careful not to crowd our dog while walking. If he feels trapped between us and the other dog, he may think he has no choice but to react aggressively. Do not stand still while trying to tug our dog away. Move away, and he will come along with us. At the same time, we are creating space so that he will not feel trapped.

I do not let my dog obsess or stare intensely at other dogs. Sometimes, my Shiba Inu will drop into a stalking-down-position, stare, and wait for the other dog to pass. Some people think that he is such a good boy for doing a Down, when other dogs are coming toward him, but he is actually just waiting to pounce.

Do not allow this bad behavior, do not let our dog practice it, do not even let him think about it. Just move him along, and ignore. If the other dog is somehow blocking us (e.g. if the owner is unable to control his dog), then walk away in a different direction. Do not stare the other dog down and do not confront him, either through posture or by physically engaging him.

Challenging unknown dogs is a good way to get bitten.

Challenging unknown dogs is a good way to get bitten.

3. Create Space or Block the Other Dog

We can do this by moving across the road or into a driveway, and waiting for the other dog to pass.

We may also move our dog behind a barrier, for example a car. If there are no barriers available, we can try blocking the dog’s view with our body.

By doing this, we avoid a head-on, more confrontational passing.

I have tried all of these blocking techniques, but what works best for me is to create space, and quickly move past the other dog. Whenever I wait for the other dog to pass, my Shiba uses that time to start obsessing.

Dog treats and trying to get his attention do not work at this point, because the other dog is too close, and Shiba Sephy is no longer listening. The advantage of walking Sephy briskly past the other dog, is that he has less time to stare. In addition, he cannot fully obsess, because he must partly focus on walking.

However, using barriers and blocking may work better for a fearful dog.

Some trainers suggest turning and walking away when we see another dog, rather than passing him or waiting for him to pass.

There are two problems with this method:

• If we turn away, the other dog will be following us. This may cause some dogs to keep looking back, to make sure that the follower is not a threat. I have tried this, and indeed my Shiba keeps looking back.
• If we keep turning away, we may meet other dogs and get boxed in; especially if there are many dogs in our neighborhood.

3. Create space or block the other dog.

4. Create Neutral Experiences

Create neutral experiences.

I try to create as many neutral dog-to-dog meeting experiences as possible. If every time my dog sees another dog, we just pass by and nothing interesting happens, it will become a non-event.

Being consistent with neutral greetings will build our dog’s confidence. Through repetition, we are teaching him how to behave (just avoid and move along), and how not to behave (get over-excited, frustrated, lunge, and pull). He will be more calm because he is not waiting in anticipation of a highly charged encounter, either for play or for confrontation.

I try to set my dog up for success, and do not let him practice aggressive behaviors when meeting other dogs. The more he practices, the more aggressive he will be.

If my dog becomes agitated during a walk, I try to end the outing as soon as possible. Once in this mode, his adrenaline levels will be high for a fair duration, and he will likely react aggressively to all the dogs that we meet. In this state, he will no longer be capable of learning, and will only be practicing dog aggressive behaviors.

Being consistent with neutral or positive greetings will build our dog’s confidence.

5. Protect our Dog

Protect our dog from rude dogs and rude people.

Shiba Inu Sephy is an excitable dog.

I usually keep my dog away from people and dogs with weak energy (e.g. fearful, excited, or frustrated energy). In addition, I also try to keep other dogs and owners from coming into my dog’s space. I say a quick ‘hi’ to the people I meet, and move on.

If people with weak energy stop and want to meet my dog, I ask them nicely to please move on, because my dog is easily excitable.

It is fine and good to let a dog meet people with calm energy, but make sure to let them know how to best meet our dog. In particular, turn away when he jumps, no quick movements, and no petting from above.

6. Keep Greetings Short and Sweet

While greeting another dog, we want to positively interrupt our dog every so often, and get him to refocus on us. Do this as many times as necessary, so that our dog does not get over-excited, and lose control of himself.

Whenever my dog is meeting a new dog, I interrupt him after a very short duration (2-3 seconds). I quickly move or jog away from the other dog, while giving the positive interrupt command, e.g. Hey, hey. Initially, I may have to lightly tug at my dog while moving away. I make sure to treat him well for moving toward me on a loose leash.

If our dog is too obsessed to move away and is strongly standing his ground, then we have waited too long to initiate the interrupt. Positive interrupts are also useful for dealing with human greetings, and getting our dog away from a dirty or unsuitable area.

The key to successful positive interrupts is to catch a dog early, before he starts to obsess on another dog or object.

Use positive interrupts and keep encounters short.

7. Be Aware of Aggressive Triggers

Some dogs, for example Spitz-type dogs, have a natural look that may appear dominant (ears up, hair out, tail up). This dominant look may instigate other dogs to respond in kind, and start posturing as well. Conflicts may occur, and if neither dog is willing to back down, this may lead to a dog fight.

If I am unsure about a dog greeting, I just move on. Better to be safe than sorry.

Be aware that our dog’s natural look may trigger a reaction.

8. Desensitize our Dog to Other Dogs

The problem with dog-to-dog aggression issues, is that in regular situations the “other dog” stimulus is too strong, and environment is too unstructured for any learning to occur. Often, our dog overloads quickly and becomes reactive, because the other dog is too close, is staring, is hyper, or is charging toward us.

In the desensitization process, we do training in a quiet, enclosed environment, and start with a very weak version of the problem stimulus. In terms of reactivity toward other dogs, we can use distance to weaken its effect.

In this way, we also weaken the strength of our dog’s reaction, so that he will be calm enough to listen and learn. This is necessary, to create opportunities where we can begin to teach our dog to be calm and relaxed, while in the presence of another dog.

8. Desensitize our dog to other dogs.

I did quite a lot of dog-to-dog desensitization sessions with Sephy, when he was young, at our local SPCA. The trainers there had many balanced, friendly dogs, that we could do training with.

First, the trainer would engage the other dog in training exercises, so that he stays in a fixed position, and is not focused on Sephy (i.e., no eye-contact). Both dogs are on-leash.

I take Sephy a far distance away, far enough away that he is still calm and able to listen to me. Then, I get his attention by calling his name. If he looks at me, I praise, and treat him for behaving well. Sometimes, I also ask him to do very simple commands, e.g. Sit.

I let my dog sit and watch if he is calm.

I let Sephy sit and watch the other dog as long as he is calm, and willing to give me his attention when I ask for it. Once we are both comfortable with this, I move one step toward the other dog and repeat the Focus and Sit exercises above.

Do not move too close to the other dog, too quickly. If we move forward too fast, our dog may become reactive, and will no longer be able to give us his attention. At this point, I no-mark Sephy (uh-oh) and move back a few steps. Once we are far enough away, I try to get his attention again. When he gives it to me, I stop, praise, and treat.

Note – for desensitization to be successful, we want to keep our dog below his instinct threshold as much as possible.

I always try to make sessions short, fun, and rewarding. This helps our dog associate other dogs with being calm, and with positive experiences. I make sure to stop before my dog shows any obsessive behavior, and long before he becomes aggressive. Once a dog becomes reactive or aggressive, it is usually best to end the session soon after.

As we make progress, we can slowly increase the strength of the problem stimulus. For example, we may allow the target dog to start moving around, or we may allow him to play with his handler.

The desensitization process can be long and difficult. Dogs with lower instinct thresholds (the point at which they lose control and switch to instinct) will be harder to desensitize. However, consistent practice will also help to raise this threshold.

For desensitization to be successful, it is important to keep our dog below his instinct threshold at all times.

What to Expect from Dog-to-Dog Aggression Training

Do not expect too much, too quickly, from our dog. Make sure to treat and praise him very well, if he voluntarily engages in avoidance maneuvers, when there are other dogs around. This includes looking away from the direction of the other dog, smelling and exploring the environment, or looking at us for direction.

Initially, treat and praise even small avoidance moves, for example looking away for just 1 second. If a dog will not accept treats from us, then he is too far gone and it is best to lead him away. Treats are only effective for shaping behavior when our dog is still thinking, and not operating on instinct.

If we keep practicing desensitization exercises, and teach our dog how to behave with other dogs, he will improve. As he matures, he will become more confident, be less dog aggressive, and be more comfortable around new experiences.

For aggression issues between two family dogs, here is more on how I help my dogs get along.

What to Expect from Dog-to-Dog Aggression Training.