When my Shiba Inu bites on something he shouldn’t, I no-mark, and then I follow-up with some action. For example, I start by redirecting him onto a toy. If he redirects, then I mark the behavior and reward him by playing a fun game with him. In this way, he learns that playing with his toys is a lot more rewarding and a lot more interesting.

If he doesn’t redirect, then I body block him away from the area and get him to do something else. If he keeps going back, then I close the door to the area, so that he no longer has access to it. If he starts whining or pawing at the door, then I temporarily take away his freedom by putting him in a time-out area.

In general, when teaching my puppy, I start small and give him many chances to do the right thing. I only slowly escalate my response if Sephy escalates his behavior. In this way, I set him up for success and I have many chances to reinforce good behavior.

I also found frozen Kongs to be very useful to keep my puppy occupied. In the beginning, I help him get the stuff out, but he quickly learned how to do it himself, and it probably also helped with puppy teething.

With my Shiba, setting up a fixed routine and a consistent set of rules was very helpful.
http://shibashake.com/dog/puppy-biting-tips-solutions

Hi, we’ve only had her a week.

We have a chem free pet food company and she loves our beef and sardine blend.

I know she is hungry. She got free from her harness yesterday afternoon.

She is coming out to noodle w/our golden retriever. When Bre came out and looked at me, I didn’t jump at her, so I tried to walk back to the house w/Sunshine. She came out further and followed and turned around and ran back in.

She is on a bank of a canal here in Florida and she is burrowed in the middle of a thicket boundaries with razor stemmed palmetto bush.

Exhausted and don’t know what to do.

My dogs will usually come running when they smell something really smelly and yummy – e.g. sardines.

They are also very curious and will come over if they notice something interesting going on, especially if it involves a lot of motion, e.g. people playing games, throwing balls, etc.

What does your puppy really like to eat and do? How long have you had her? What type of training methods are you using?

Hello Michael,
I know what you mean. I was in a similar situation when I got my Shiba Inu. He was a terror on 4 paws!

Shibas can be extremely stubborn and extremely sneaky. Some of the key things that helped me with Sephy include –
1. Calm energy – controlling my own energy so that I am always calm and sure when dealing with him.
2. Structure and routine – Shibas really need structure and routine. Sephy usually gets stressed when things change or when he is unsure what would happen. He is most calm, well-behaved, and unstressed when we stick to a fixed routine that he is comfortable and happy with.
3. NILIF program – Only give Shiba something after Shiba has done some work for you. It can be as simple as getting her to sit before opening the door, giving her affection, food, or anything else.

Here are some of the specific things that helped with my Shiba when he was a puppy.
http://shibashake.com/dog/puppy-obedience-training

Here are some of the things I did to establish pack leadership.
http://shibashake.com/dog/pack-leader-to-an-aggressive-dog

Congratulations on your new Shiba. Things will get better with time and training. Shiba Sephy is almost 4 now and he is a good boy nowadays – for a Shiba 😉

Thank you