Yeah, I had some very difficult times with my Shiba Inu with regards to leash biting. With Shiba Sephy, several things helped-
1. Desensitization training with excitement triggers, e.g. other dogs.
2. Controlling my own energy. Sephy is very sensitive to the energy of the people around him. If I become nervous, anxious, angry, or stressed, he will quickly pick up on that energy, get even more stressed himself and his behavior will worsen. I always try to stay calm and just focus on my plan of action.
3. Short leash and brisk walk home. I can do this because Sephy has good bite inhibition, and does not cause any real damage when he bites on me.

More on my leash-biting experiences with Sephy.

Management equipment can also be helpful, for example using a basket muzzle in the short-term. I always desensitize my dog to the muzzle first before using.

However, as you know, dog behavior is very context dependent so each dog and situation are different. Since your arm is already getting hurt from the experience, it may be best to get guidance from a good professional trainer who understands desensitization training and counter-conditioning techniques. There are few controls in the dog training field, so it can be a challenge to find a good trainer. The articles below have some good information on what to look for in a trainer.
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/finding-professional-help
https://apdt.com/pet-owners/choosing-a-trainer/

I really liked the blog and information on here, we just got a year or so old collie shepherd from the local humane society.
He is mostly great, there are a lot of little behaviours that we have been seeing and coming out at random times.
A new one is how bad his biting has gotten on walks…mostly at the end, when he knows we are coming home, but sometimes at the beginning or randomly too, he gets very aggressive, and like you mentioned, bites the leash, but mostly me or my partner, on sleeves, arms, hands, anything, jumps to get at us.
We are starting a training program on the 9th, but in the mean time, have been looking for solutions, or things to do, because, I have the same mix of dog as a family dog, he was a rescue, and of course all their paths are different, and all their pasts, but he was never this aggressive, and a breed like that needs to be walked and taken outdoors, but it makes me dread it because I’m always thinking….when is he gonna snap?
I missed work today because the bit from last night rendered my arm bruised, pulled, and useless, I don’t want to take medication for infection every time there’s a walk…any tips?
-At a loss,

Samantha

Yeah, Sephy was also very sensitive to neck grabs and collar grabs. This was because when I grabbed his neck it was almost always to physically stop him from doing something or to otherwise punish him. As a result, he associated grabs with negative consequences and always did his best to stay away from me.

With Sephy, it was a lot more effective to control him using a flat collar and leash. I always supervise him well when he is roaming freely in the house and I have a drag lead on him for control. I only use a drag lead when he is under my supervision and only with a safe flat collar or harness (no aversive collars).

At the same time I also had to do a lot of desensitization exercises to help him re-associate my hand and my touches with being calm and positive rewards. Desensitization always has to start off small, with a very weak version of the problem stimulus. It is also very important during the entire rehabilitation process, that we do not expose our dog to the problem stimulus in a negative way.

For example, when I want to desensitize my dog to a certain sound, I start with a very soft version of the sound and only *very slowly* build up from there. During the entire rehabilitation process, I make sure never to expose my dog to a loud version of the sound (before he is ready for it), because that would cause him to regress and greatly set back retraining.

The key with desensitization is to always set my dog up for success so that he learns to tolerate more and more of the problem stimulus in a calm way. The more successes we have, the better he is able to handle things in the future. Similarly, bad experiences will undermine his confidence and training.
More on how I do sound desensitization exercises with my dog.

With Sephy it was very important to set up a fixed routine and a very consistent structure at home. Here are a few more things that helped with Sephy.
http://shibashake.com/dog/puppy-biting-tips-solutions
http://shibashake.com/dog/how-i-trained-my-husky-puppy#bite-training
http://shibashake.com/dog/nothing-in-life-is-free-dog-training

While retraining Sephy, I learned that consistency, repetition, timing, energy, and technique are all very important. In addition, dog behavior is very dependent on temperament and context. Therefore, we did private lessons with several trainers who could observe Sephy within the context of his regular environment. In this way, they can also help me with timing, energy, and technique.
http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/finding-professional-help
https://apdt.com/pet-owners/choosing-a-trainer/

Any advice will be great!
Thank you!

This is what I do with my puppy-
http://shibashake.com/dog/how-i-trained-my-husky-puppy#bite-training

When my Husky puppy was young, she was also very mouthy and very energetic. I put a lead on her (only with a flat collar and only under supervision) so that I could better control her. I can also clip the lead to my belt, so that if I need to be in the kitchen, I can have her close-by and supervise.

For time-outs, I use a very low stimulus area. It has to be low stimulus so that my puppy can calm down, and also so that it temporarily but *noticeably* limits her freedom. In this way, she loses something that she values (her freedom) and learns that some behaviors have bad consequences.

More on what I do with my dogs to teach them not to bite on people.

Some things that I do to train and control my puppy-
http://shibashake.com/dog/how-i-trained-my-husky-puppy
http://shibashake.com/dog/puppy-obedience-training

I have a 9 week old husky x Belgian shepherd, Ozzy, who at the moment is a non stop biter! He is particularly fond of biting my legs and ankles!! He also loves to bite my nearly 3 year old son who has taken to squealing and dropping to the ground if the puppy runs at him which of course excites the puppy! When I pull the puppy off my son he will growl and be quite aggressive so I will put him outside for some “quiet time” . I am trying to get my son to not drop on the ground or run or squeal but it is difficult! Ozzy is proving to be a quick learner but I just can not get him to stop biting! We are going to puppy school once he has had all his needles but that’s not for another 3 weeks! Hoping you can give me some advice!

Thanks
Kristy

but my shiba inu just randomly bit the husky on her neck.

Hmmm, what kind of bite? Was there skin penetration? Was it aggressive or in play? What were the dogs doing before that? Were there resources around – food, toys? Context is very important when it comes to dog behavior.

Here are some things that I do to keep the peace at home with my dogs.