You need to protect your Boston t. The bulldog will eventually Lock jaws on your Boston t. The bulldog is sweet with people, but may cause possible death in your other dog. Do not allow the bulldog to be with the other dog.

How old is he? What is his daily routine like?

I deal with my puppy biting by doing three things-
1. Bite inhibition training.
2. No-bite conditioning.
3. Structure and puppy self-control.

I talk more about how I do these three things in the articles below.
http://shibashake.com/dog/puppy-biting-how-to-stop-puppy-biting
http://shibashake.com/dog/puppy-biting-tips-solutions

This ASPCA article has more on introducing a new dog to a cat-
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/cat-behavior/introducing-your-cat-new-dog

However, dog behavior is very context dependent so the dog’s temperament, routine, environment and more will all play a role. Given what you describe, I would get help from a good professional trainer.
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/finding-professional-help
https://apdt.com/pet-owners/choosing-a-trainer/

What is the daily routine of both dogs? How much exercise does the bulldog get? What kind of training are both dogs used to? What are their house rules?

With my dogs, I set up clear dog-to-dog interaction rules (e.g. no stealing, no humping) and I supervise closely to make sure that everyone is following the rules. In this way, my dogs know exactly what to expect from each other, what to expect from me, and what I expect from them in return. This helps to create certainty and certainty helps to reduce stress and conflicts.

By closely supervising my dogs, I can quickly redirect them as soon as I see questionable behaviors and prevent things from escalating. I set my dogs up for success by managing their environment and routine, and making sure *not* to expose them to situations they are not ready for. I do not leave my dogs alone, unsupervised, until I am very very sure that there will be no issues. I use leashes, baby gates, and other management equipment as necessary, and to keep everyone safe. For example, if I know that the trigger is the doorbell, I make sure to keep one dog with me (using a leash if needed), so that issues do not develop at the door before I can get there. Management and supervision are key.
More on how I help my dogs get along.

When someone comes to the door, dogs will often get excited. However, they are blocked from getting to the interesting stuff. This can lead to barrier frustration and then redirected aggression.
http://www.scafshelter.org/education/tips-from-the-trainer/1196/tips-from-the-trainer-barrier-frustation
http://www.bigdogsbighearts.com/Leash_Aggression_Barrier_Frustration.pdf
http://www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/how-do-i-manage-my-dogs-barrier-frustration

Given what you describe, I would get help from a good professional trainer/behaviorist. Dog fights can be dangerous not just for the dogs, but also for the people around them. While in the throes of a fight, a dog may redirect his aggression onto the people who are trying to stop or restrain him. A good professional trainer can observe the dogs’ behavior, help identify the source of the issue, and help develop a safe plan for management and rehabilitation.
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/finding-professional-help
https://apdt.com/pet-owners/choosing-a-trainer/

My question is, does my dog need to run and play with other dogs?

That depends a lot on the dog and energy level. My dogs enjoy play with each other, but I also walk them daily. The walk is important because it gives them an opportunity to be outside, to smell new things, and explore. When I don’t walk my dogs enough, they go a bit crazy in the house, even with play. However, the play is a good complement to the walking because it does drain a good chunk of their energy, so I only need to do one walk per day.

The thing is, proper play and socialization will take time, effort, and supervision. With my Shiba Inu, I got him to be more comfortable around other dogs by doing dog-to-dog desensitization exercises.

I observe Sephy closely so that I can tell what type of dogs he plays best with. Sephy has a more extreme play style so he does not do well with dogs that are his size or smaller. They tend to get overwhelmed by him, and nobody has fun. He does best with larger dogs who like to wrestle. Each dog will be different in terms of favorite playmates.

During play, I always supervise closely, especially in the beginning or with any new dog. I only pick dogs who will do well with Sephy. I set up clear play rules so that everyone has fun and nobody gets overwhelmed. I manage the excitement level of all the dogs by throwing in many play breaks. This is important because when Sephy gets too excited, play becomes too rough and then it may turn into something else.
More on how I manage play-time with my dogs.

I keep play groups small and very structured so that I am always in control and can stop play quickly if needed.

Structured and positive play with other dogs is a good form of exercise for my dogs.

Congratulations on your new Husky! I am so glad that he has found a good home.

For my shy Husky I started off by giving her more space, and letting her approach me on her own. For example, I may sit on the floor and have some of her favorite food (in little pieces) scattered around me. I first start off by having the food a good distance away from me, so that she will be comfortable coming on her own to get it.

I read a book while I am sitting on the floor so that –
1. Sitting makes me seem less threatening vs. standing.
2. Reading a book means I am not giving her any eye-contact. Eye contact can often be threatening to a shy dog.
3. I don’t say anything or try to reach for her or touch her in any way. I just sit, read my book and let her approach to get the food on her own.
4. Once I see she is comfortable with that, I may place the food a little bit closer to where I sit and so on.
5. After my Husky becomes comfortable with that, I additionally toss her some food, but still no eye-contact, talking, or touching.

In general, my strategy is to start small, set her up for success in a positive and rewarding way, and that will help her build confidence. Then I very slowly increase the challenge a little bit more, and so on, until she slowly learns to trust me.

More on how I do desensitization exercises with other people.
ASPCA article on how to deal with a dog who is afraid of people.

And Also He does NOTHING but pace back and forth in our room when its time for bed.

Is the door to the room closed? Is your husband also in the room when he does this? Does he do this behavior if your husband is not in the room? If the door is open, what does he do? Does he seem to enjoy a crate or is he afraid of it?

Finally, dog behavior is also very context dependent so each dog and situation are different. When I was having behavioral issues with my Shiba, we did private lessons with several professional trainers, and it was helpful to have them observe him, read his body language, and help me better understand his behaviors.