Leash training a dog, is effectively achieved by teaching him one simple fact-
Pulling will get him nowhere.
Instead, walking properly next to us, is the quickest way to get to his destination.
To teach this lesson, it is important NOT to reward our dog for pulling.
Do not let our dog drag us along, and do not pet or give him any affection while he is pulling. Teach him to walk on a loose leash first, before attempting to walk him close to us in a heel position.
Here are some leash training techniques:
Leash Training Technique 1
Red-Light, Green-Light
A simple way to leash train a dog and teach him not to pull, is to …
- Stop walking when the leash is taut, and
- Start moving again when the leash is loose.
We do not even need to say anything to our dog. Through our actions, he will figure out the rules of the game.
Initially, we may need to stop very frequently, so be ready for really short walks. However, it is important to be patient and absolutely consistent with the stop rule. Otherwise, our dog will learn that if he pulls enough times, we will give-in and let him go wherever he wants. This encourages him to pull more in the future.
Leash Training Technique 2
180 Degree Turn
Depending on the age and temperament of our dog, frequent hard stops may cause him to get frustrated. Too much pent-up frustration can make a dog act out in other ways, for example, he may resort to leash biting.
If we are leash training an easily frustrated or excitable dog, it may be more effective to use the 180-turn technique.
As soon as our dog starts to pull, quickly turn around and start walking in the opposite direction. In this way, the dog can release his pent-up energy, because he is still doing something physical – walking. At the same time, he learns that when he pulls, he just gets farther away from his desired destination.
If our dog walks properly on a loose leash for a few seconds, we can mark him for his good behavior (Good), turn back, and resume our walk. If he starts pulling again, it is fine to walk back and forth on the same stretch of ground until he learns not to pull.
Leash Training Technique 3
Hand Targeting
Start by training the dog to target our hand at home.
First, I put some dog treats in my hand, and make sure my dog knows that it is there. Then, I put my hand close to his muzzle and say Nose. As soon as my dog touches my hand with his nose, I mark him (Yes) and treat him. I repeat this exercise until I am confident that he has learned the command.
Next, I move a few steps away, put my hand out in the same gesture, and say Nose. When he moves toward me and touches my hand, I mark the behavior (Yes) and treat. I keep repeating this inside the house, then continue the exercise in the backyard.
Once we are comfortable doing this in the backyard, we can try using this technique outside, while leash training our dog.
If the dog pulls, non-mark him (Uh-oh), get him to do a Sit, re-target him on our hand, and continue the leash training session.
In this way, our dog learns that pulling is inappropriate, and walking close to us will get him affection and treats. We can treat less often, and slowly phase out the treats altogether, once our dog learns to walk calmly by our side.
Leash Training Technique 4
Collar Correction/ Leash Correction/ Leash Jerk
The most common aversive technique for leash training a dog, is to perform collar corrections (also called leash corrections or leash jerks).
A collar correction must be a quick jerk of the leash. There is only tension for an extremely short amount of time (a quarter-second or less), and then the leash should be loose again. Most people tend to do tugs rather than jerks, which will do little in leash training the dog.
Tugs may actually exacerbate the situation, because it places continuous tension on the leash. This tension may cause the dog to get tense and frustrated.
We must also be properly positioned for the collar correction, so that the force is always to the side rather than directly back. Jerking to the back may encourage the dog to lunge forward to oppose the force, thus causing him to pull even more.
To work well in leash training, collar corrections must be executed with the proper force, proper timing, and proper redirection. This is necessary so that the dog learns that pulling is wrong, without becoming afraid of his surroundings, or distrustful of his owner.
If not properly implemented, a collar correction may backfire and cause additional behavioral problems including dog aggression.
Only use collar corrections as a last resort for leash training. Only use collar corrections under the direction of an experienced professional trainer.
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Thanks for the advice! I’m googling away to find out more about the martingale collar. We’ll win over Kuma’s stubborn attitude yet! He does the exact same thing Sephy used to do… he will pull regardless of pain just because he WANTS to.
I never thought I would meet a dog as stubborn (if not MORE!) than I am!
Hi Jess,
I just wanted to clarify that I use the Premier martingale because of its no-slip properties. In the past, I used various flat snap-on collars and Sephy would sometimes manage to squirm his head out of those. I like the Premier collar because it prevents such Shiba escapes.
I don’t do collar corrections with the martingale. Instead, I set its minimum size to exactly the same size as a regular flat collar.
Good luck with Kuma! It will get better once Kuma realizes that the quickest way to get to where he wants to go is by not pulling.
Hi!
First of all I want to say thank you for creating this extremely valuable resource! As new parents to a Shiba Inu we are constantly coming to read your articles and have really benefited from all of your helpful tips and tricks–Shibas can be a real handful but they are worth it!
I have a question about the type of collar we are using on our Kuma. He is a 9 month old Shiba and at first he was an absolute angel on the walk. We had tried a harness but all that happens is that he pulls so hard he stands up. Next we moved to a regular collar that we could put up higher on the neck. This worked well but continued to slip down his neck. Finally we have graduated to a slip choke chain. However, I really don’t feel this is doing him any good— Kuma still pulls like crazy and the chain is very difficult to keep high on the neck. We are considering getting an Illusion collar because he seems to respond well when the collar manages to sit high on the neck.
We are at the end of our leash (pardon the bad pun!) and I would love to have your imput or suggestions. You always seem to take the dog’s best interest at heart
Thanks so much for your advice!
- Jess and Kuma
Hello Jess,
I went through a similar process with Shiba Sephy when he was young. I started with a harness, then I moved on to using collar corrections on a flat collar. Very quickly Sephy got habituated to the corrections and it would no longer have much of an effect, so I moved on to a martingale, and then to a prong collar. However, every time I increased the force of corrections, Sephy would just get used to it in a short time (maybe a few weeks) and it would no longer have an effect on him.
My trainer at the time suggested using the choke chain.
The problem with doing collar corrections on Shiba Sephy is that he is very stubborn and he is not afraid to fight back. The collar corrections were starting to frustrate him and he was starting to do really bad leash biting. Also, Sephy is very stubborn and he is willing to take the pain and do what he wants to do. The more physical I got, the more Sephy would dig in and fight back.
After some soul-searching, I switched to using non-aversive techniques on Sephy. It was difficult at first, but Sephy responded much better to non-aversive methods. Previously, Sephy was very sensitive to handling, and would frequently use his teeth on me. Nowadays, he almost never pulls, no longer does leash biting, usually allows me to brush his teeth, and tries to lick instead of bite. Sometimes I can see him controlling himself.
Currently, I use the Premier no-slip martingale collar together with a 6 foot leather leash when we go on walks. If Sephy does pull because of a squirrel alert, I would use a combination of the red-light/green-light technique and the 180 turn around technique. Those work very well with Sephy.
Here is Shiba Sephy’s story in technicolor detail.
Hope this helps. Big hugs to Kuma!
Yes, I do walk a bunch of dogs..
I use them for my crew, and I also keep a few sizes handy just in case I meet up with dogs that pull. It does amaze me how some owners end up choking the dogs and causing stress during what should be a relaxing event!
Hi Sabrina,
But if you are consistent it can work very well.
I think Sibes have a higher tendency to pull because it is bred into them to pull carts, people, and goods. It is not a dominance thing though – because when Siberians are pulling a cart, it is the driver that is directing his pack of dogs even though the pack is in front and pulling.
Even though it may be a bit more challenging, Siberians can be trained to walk properly on a leash.
My Sibe still pulls sometimes (especially when she spots prey) but she is much better now than she was before. The technique that seems to work best for her is the start-stop technique combined with the 180 degree turn around. At the beginning, it got a bit frustrating because I would walk one step and have to turn around. Then, walk another step and turn around
Sometimes I will just get her to come back to me and wait patiently for a while before moving on.
This way, the dog learns that pulling = does not get to go in the desired direction but not-pulling = gets to go where he wants to go, albeit at a slower pace.
When you do the turn around, do not pull directly back but try to navigate them to the side and back – in an arc. Pulling directly back will make dogs want to naturally oppose the force and as a result make them pull even harder.
It is probably easiest to leash train them one at the time.
Hello,
I am currently in a very drastic situation because I have two 7 month old Siberian Huskies which just keeps pulling and pulling on the leash. My family and I always take them out together for walks however, it can never last long because both of them just loves to walk first (as in like being in the lead).
I have tried walking them individually, and the pulling problem has decreased however they are constantly still pulling with all their might. I want to ask if it is their true nature for Siberian Huskies wanting to be the pack leader and guide the rest first or is it just simply because they need leash training methods?
Can you please give me some advice because it makes me go crazy. Thank You
Hello Dan,
My Shiba has only shaken off his drag lead a couple of times when he is in the house. I have had some collar escapes though while walking him outside.
Earlier on I tried a variety of nylon and cotton leashes, but I finally settled on a leather leash which I really like. I have two leather leashes now – one for each of my dogs. I like them because their clasp is more secure, and they are easy on the hands.
I also really like the Premier martingale nylon collar – which is great at preventing my Shiba from pulling and escaping out of his collar.
Hi I don’t know if youve ever had this problem but my shiba inu’s leashes keep coming off. I think its because he shakes all the time, but i’ve tried plenty of leashes. He’ll be shaking and i notice his leash on the floor and he just goes running. Its happened 4 times already and thank god ive always been able to catch him w/o anything bad happening. any advice?
Hello Keth,
Reward training is a great way to motivate dogs to stay close during walks.
The spoon is also a great idea to avoid raw hands and teach bite inhibition.
Two paws up and a carrot stick!
Can I vote “Choose to Heel” on the leash training poll? I’ve successfully taught many clients and their dogs the heel by teaching the dog it’s infinitely more rewarding to be in the heel position than to be anywhere else. No corrections, just super-duper rewards for being in the heel position (for mouthy dogs, I use a spoon with some kind of soft food on it, or a carrot stick to avoid raw hands!).
Hi Laurie, Thanks for dropping by. It is good to hear from someone with so much experience in walking dogs.
“I also always use a harness with my mini schnauzers because they tend to think they are indestructible!”
lol – that is very good advice. A harness is especially appropriate for smaller dogs that pull a lot. I must add this into my article. Thanks!
I could not agree more with the chokers. The chokers really have been ineffective for me with my experience with training and walking dogs. I also always use a harness with my mini schnauzers because they tend to think they are indestructible!
As stated above, a combination of focus training, command training along with long walks on a leash are by far the best solution.
Yeah the dogs love to run through the fields and back in the woods. They are inside dogs but they get plenty of time to run and play outside. The main reason i need/want to leash train them better is because from time to time i like to take them into town with me. My dogs are so sweet and goofy, both are about 50 lbs and they think they are lap dogs.
83 acres?! I am green with envy, and so are my dogs
That’s like being in an off-leash park every day. I would just train their recalls and do off-leash walking with them for fun and bonding.
What a nice setup. Did I say I was green with envy?
another good article, i need to work with both of my dogs on the leash. They are good dogs and well behaved but i just never use a leash much. own 83 acres so i have a lot of room for my dogs to run and exercise on my property, but that’s no excuse not to have them properly leash trained.
Maxina, you bring up a very good point. Aversive techniques like leash jerks with a prong, usually brings more immediate results. However, they have their own set of issues.
Reward techniques like the 180 turn, red light/green light, and hand targeting, usually takes more time, over more sessions; but may be more effective over the long term. Rather than doing an hour session, it may work better to do shorter, but more frequent sessions. Ultimately, the technique that works best for you will depend on your temperament, your dog’s temperament, and the type of relationship you want to have.
i have a 4 months old pitbull and i used the i80 turn for like an hour and it never worked.i used a prong collar it worked but i felt sorry for my dog feeling pain so i stopped .i tried nose still didnt work.i havent tried green light red light but ill write bak if i do lata at 3 PEACE OUT SUCKAS
You really have the heart for dogs. I am saving this hub for guidance later on.
THATS SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO COOLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL CAN I LET YOU TRAIN MY DOG
thats cool
Hi Jim. Your girl really sounds like an angel. After hearing all your stories about her, I really want to meet her. Do you have pictures of her that you can share?
I think she will quickly learn to walk by you but you must be 100% consistent with the stopping especially during the initial training phase. This will be difficult to do with the carriage and two boys. Consider doing shorter, one-on-one, walk training sessions with her, using the flat collar/harness; and then use the head halti when going on longer walks with the boys.
My dog is an angel about everything except she sometimes wants to pull. It is strange because if I take her outside and she gets off the leash or gets outside without one she stays perfectly with us. The issue only seems to be when we are going somewhere. But, it isn’t even all of the time. I have tried going in different directions and rewarding for being next to me. But, it doesn’t seem to matter. She seems to like the idea of being first even if she doesn’t know where we are going. Normally I also have a carriage and two young boys with me. I tried keeping her behind me, but then the kids will ask to hold her and sometimes they will want to run. I have a leash that can also be a choke collar. When I use that she is more than happy to keep pulling ahead and coughing. My vet had suggested the Halti. Maybe I should give it shot. Thanks for the useful Hub.