The best way I found to approach dog obedience training is to get the facts for myself. Initially, this can be a bit daunting, but it gets easier with time.

In particular, it is important to get training information from multiple sources. Do not believe what you see on a single television show, what you read in a single book, what you find in any one web article, or even what you may hear from a so-called professional dog trainer. The dog obedience training field it not regulated and anyone can refer to themselves as a professional trainer.

Instead, get your information from all of these sources, from many different people, from top veterinarian schools, and scientific studies. Then, use that knowledge and common sense to determine which ones are dog obedience training facts, and which are myths.

Dog Obedience Training Facts and Myths.

Dog Obedience Training Facts

Fact 1 – Almost all dogs can be trained to follow obedience commands and to stop undesirable behaviors.

When I first got my Shiba Inu, it seemed like he was an extreme devil dog and no matter what I did, his behavior only got worse. However, after a few months, I finally started to understand the basics of dog obedience training and things improved dramatically.

The only time where dog obedience training fails is when there are health issues involved. For example, a dog may have neurological disorders, or some other physical ailment that is causing his erratic behavior.

Fact 2 – Most dog obedience training issues and bad dog behaviors are a result of human error, or human misunderstanding.

When a dog misbehaves, we commonly blame the dog. However, most bad dog behaviors come from us, rather than from our dogs.

Dogs are not born mean. In fact, bad dog behaviors usually occur when we mis-communicate with our dogs and inadvertently reward bad behaviors. If a dog consistently gets bad results for a given behavior, he will stop that behavior. Conversely, if a dog consistently gets good results for a given behavior, he will increase the frequency of that behavior.

Similarly, if we do not fulfill our dog’s needs, including his need for exercise, chewing, digging, playing, and wrestling, he will try to fulfill those needs on his own. This is when our dog suddenly turns into a devil, and causes havoc and much property damage. However, if we provide our dog with positive outlets for his hyper energy, he will be happy and content to lie by our feet when the day is done.

Ff we do not fulfill our dog’s needs, including his need for exercise, chewing, digging, playing, and jumping, he will try to fulfill these needs on his own.

Fact 3 – Dogs are not humans.

Dogs are not humans, therefore they do not learn or think in exactly the same way as we do. Many people attribute bad dog behavior to hate, malice, or spite. Those particular nasty emotions are a human thing and not a dog thing.

Similarly, we are not dogs. Therefore, we should not try to pretend to be a dog by biting our dog’s neck with our fingers, pinning them to the ground by their necks, or try to fight and posture like a dog. Our dogs are not stupid, they know we are not dogs, and that our fingers are not their mother’s teeth.

When we jab at a dog’s neck, he does not think that it is another dog biting at him. In fact, it probably feels nothing at all like another dog biting at his neck. Instead, the jab causes some discomfort or pain, which causes some dogs to stop his current behavior in order to avoid further pain.

Dogs are not humans, and we are not dogs.

Dog Obedience Training Myths

Myth 1 – Bad dog behaviors are a result of dominance and can only be dealt with through physical corrections.

Dogs usually misbehave not because of dominance, but because we respond in the wrong way. When a dog jumps, we try to push him away with arms and hands. This actually rewards a dog for jumping because from the dog’s point of view,

Jumping = Fun game of wrestle.

Similarly, if we frequently take things away from our dog by force, he will learn that

People coming close to my stuff = Stuff gets taken away.

This conditions a dog to start protecting his belongings with whatever means necessary.

Myth 2 – Operant conditioning methods that work on dolphins, bears, tigers, and other animals do not work on dogs because dogs are pack animals. As such, they only understand dominance techniques.

Yes, dogs are pack animals; and in fact, so are we. Dogs do sometimes engage in dominance posturing, and they may sometimes fight because of dominance issues. Humans do the same things. However, dominance displays and fights are only a small part of a dog’s life. We are often the ones who project our own need for dominance onto our dogs.

Operant conditioning methods that work on dolphins, bears, tigers, and other animals will work on dogs as well. In fact, almost all of our current dog obedience training methods are based on operant conditioning principles. This includes both reward obedience training (time-outs, food rewards, withdrawing attention, NILIF) and aversive obedience training (leash corrections, alpha rolls, shock collars, finger jabs, muzzle slaps).

*We* are often the ones who project our own need for dominance onto our dogs.

Myth 3 – We cannot stop dog bad behaviors with reward training. Reward training is just for learning dog tricks.

Contrary to what some people may say, reward training can be used to both stop bad behaviors and to encourage good behaviors. Similarly, aversive training can also be used to stop bad behaviors and to encourage good behaviors. Each school of training has its advantages and disadvantages, but both can work to shape behavior.

Myth 4 – Using food to stop bad dog behavior is treating the dog like a human. Therefore, it does not work.

I will never understand why food is considered to be a human thing and not a dog thing. Dogs have to eat too.

The reason why dogs jump and bite during dinner time is because *we* become afraid when that happens, and quickly give them their food. This rewards the jumping and biting behavior, which causes the dog to jump and bite more. If we only give our dog food when he is sitting and waiting patiently, then our dog will quickly learn that,

Sit = Get food, while
Jumping and biting = No food.

Randomly giving food to a dog with no attention to timing, teaches him the wrong lessons. Similarly, randomly jabbing a dog because of some perceived dominance issue teaches him the wrong lessons as well.

Timing is crucial in dog obedience training, no matter which techniques we choose to use. However, the risks and consequences of timing mistakes are greatest, when we use pain based aversive techniques.

If we only give our dog food when he is lying down and waiting calmly, then our dog will quickly learn that lying down = food, while jumping and biting = no food.

Dog Obedience Training Facts and Myths

I believe that the most important thing, is to give our dog a good quality of life. This includes fulfilling his needs, as well as ensuring his health and safety.

Dog obedience training is necessary to provide some structure for our dog and keep him safe. This allows us to take him walking, play fun games, meet and greet people, and much more.

However, we must not forget that dogs are individuals, with their own will and their own mind. There are some things that my dogs must do, such as go to the vet, walk on a leash, and not use their teeth on people. At most other times, they are free to think and act on their own.

As pack leader, I help my dogs be the dog that they want to be; rather than use pain and force to make them into the dog that *I* want them to be.

As pack leader, I help my dogs be the dog that they want to be; rather than use pain and force to make them into the dog that *I* want them to be.

Indeed, dogs are not human. They do not learn in exactly the same way that we learn, nor do they think in exactly the same way as we think.

Dogs most frequently learn about each other and about us through visual and scent cues. In particular, they observe body language and smell butts to get information. Sometimes, they also use verbal communication, but much less so than we do. For example, dogs usually pick up hand gestures a lot faster than they do verbal commands.

Note, however, that just as dogs are not human, we are not dogs. Therefore, we should not pretend to be one by simulating dog bites with our hands, using alpha rolls, or try to fight like a dog. Even if we tried our very hardest, we would make poor dogs. We do not have sharp teeth, our skin is thin and very sensitive, we cannot run very fast, nor can we jump very high. We certainly did not get to the top of the evolutionary ladder because of our physical strengths.

Dogs are not stupid, they can clearly see that we are not dogs. They are also very good at observing human behavior and human gestures.

How Dogs Learn, How Dogs Think

How Do Dogs Think?

How Do Dogs Think?

Dogs do not read or write so they do not think in words and symbols the way humans do. However, just like us, dogs have needs and goals. Some of those needs may include the need for food, the need for shelter, the need to herd, the need to hunt, and the need to play.

When we do not provide proper activities for our dogs to fulfill those needs, they will act on their own. This is when, in our eyes, they suddenly become bad and destructive. Without any warning, it seems, they are chewing up our shoes, digging up our prize roses, and tearing apart our furniture.

When we lock our dogs up to keep them away from our shoes, couch, and roses; their needs and goals are still there, they just no longer have an outlet for them. As a result, they become frustrated, and that frequently leads to what we may perceive as dog aggression.

Contrary to what some may think, dogs are not slaves put on this Earth to please their human masters. Dogs have their own needs. It is important to fulfill our dog’s needs, and not just use him to fulfill our own.

Another important aspect of how dogs think, is how dogs learn.

Dogs have their own needs and it is important to fulfill our dog’s needs and not just use the dog to fulfill our own.

How Do Dogs Learn?

Dogs can learn from other dogs through social learning. They can also learn from us through a process called conditioning.

Psychologists such as Pavlov, Skinner, and others have done many experiments on animals, including dogs, in the area of behavioral conditioning. The behavioral conditioning methods that we use to train all dogs today are based on their extensive work and studies.

Dogs respond to classical and operant conditioning. Simply put, classical conditioning is responsible for involuntary responses, e.g. a dog salivating when dinner is served, while operant conditioning is responsible for voluntary responses, e.g. a dog sitting for a treat.

Classical conditioning can be useful in giving positive associations to potentially negative objects (e.g. muzzle, nail clipper/grinder, harness). For example, if we show our dog a muzzle before the start of dinner each night, he will start to associate the muzzle with dinner. Since every time he sees the muzzle, he gets dinner; he may start to salivate when he sees the muzzle, because food is likely on the way.

Based on operant conditioning, there are two classes of techniques for shaping a dog’s voluntary behavior, reward dog training (positive reinforcement, negative punishment) and aversive dog training (negative reinforcement, positive punishment).

Operant conditioning techniques are what we mostly use today to stop bad dog behavior, as well as to train them to do tricks and commands.

How Do Dogs Learn?

How Dogs Learn – Operant Conditioning

How Dogs Learn – Operant Conditioning.

Based on operant conditioning principles, we can change a dog’s behavior by adding or taking away a reward stimulus; or we can change a dog’s behavior by adding or taking away an aversive stimulus.

A reward stimulus can be food, or it can be a variety of other things including toys, freedom to roam, walks, play, and much more. Similarly, an aversive stimulus can be a collar correction, an electric shock, a slap on the muzzle, a finger jab, an unpleasant sound, and much more.

Different stimuli will have different results on learning depending on the temperament of the dog, the temperament of the trainer, the type of dog, the environment, the trigger event, how the stimulus is applied, and a variety of other factors. Some dogs are food focused which means that food will be effective at training good behaviors and stopping bad behaviors. Similarly, some dogs will wilt with just a stern word, while others will turn around and bite when jabbed by a foot or a finger.

How and what a dog learns is also highly dependent on timing (when a stimulus is applied), and frequency (how often a stimulus is applied). Generally, we want to apply the reward or aversive stimulus as close to the target behavior as possible. Operant conditioning studies also tell us that we do not want to over-correct our dog. If we apply an aversive stimulus too frequently, our dog will get habituated to it and it will no longer be effective.

Similarly, we do not want to reward our dog too frequently, or he may learn to expect a reward every time, and not be motivated to give his best effort.

A reward stimulus can be food, or it can be a variety of other things including toys, freedom to roam, walks, play, and much more.

How We Think and How We Learn

Always observe and listen to what our dog is saying.

Bad dog behavior relates to how our dogs think and learn, but it also relates to how we think and learn.

For example, once we commit to a given style of dog training, there will be a very great tendency to stick to it no matter what; even in the face of insurmountable opposing facts and data. In social psychology, this is also called commitment and consistency.

Do not let yourself be manipulated by carefully edited television shows or unsubstantiated dog training myths. Instead, do your own research on how dogs think and learn. Try out a variety of safe and reasonable dog training techniques, to find what works best for our own temperament and for our dog’s temperament. Always observe and listen to what our dog is trying to say.

The best decision that we can make for our dog, is an informed decision.

Do not dismiss new facts and data simply because it is inconsistent with our current set of beliefs. To make the best decision, we want to consider all the data objectively, and then decide what is best for our dog.

Bad dog behavior relates to how our dogs think and learn, but it also relates to how we think and learn.

Because dogs are such close companions to us, it is easy to humanize them. Many dog movies and television shows including Lassie, 101 Dalmatians, Lady and the Tramp, Bolt, and others have encouraged this view.

However, dogs are not humans, and humans are not dogs.

Humanizing a dog causes miscommunication between human and canine, which can result in a variety of dog behavioral issues.

For example, many dog owners attribute their dog pooping on their favorite carpet or eating poop, when they are not home, as an act of vengeance. In actuality, it is just a symptom of stress from having an unexpected change in their routine (separation anxiety).

Dog Psychology - How Dogs Learn, How Dogs Think

Dog Psychology vs. Dog Training

Some trainers claim that dog psychology involves pack theory and acting like a dog. According to them, obedience training is not dog psychology but simply teaching a dog tricks.

In particular, a dog who has undergone obedience training may understand training commands such as Sit, Down, and Heel, but may still engage in destructive and aggressive behaviors, such as chewing our designer shoes, or digging up our prize roses.

Is this true?

• Is there a big difference between dog psychology and dog obedience training?
• What about dog behavior modification?
• How do dogs really learn?

In fact, this separation of terms is unnecessary and only creates confusion.

Dog behavior modification, dog training, and dog tricks are ALL based on operant conditioning.

Dog behavior modification, dog training, and dog tricks are ALL based on operant conditioning.

Dog Psychology vs. Dog Training

Based on these dog psychology principles, we know that dogs learn by repeating behaviors with good results, and stopping behaviors with bad results.

Operant conditioning consists of aversive methods and reward methods. Both aversive and reward methods, can be used to modify dog behavior, train a dog to follow commands, and teach a dog new tricks.

Operant conditioning forms a big part of what we understand of dog psychology and animal psychology.

Misunderstanding of Dog Psychology

Misunderstanding of Dog Psychology.

• The claim that dog obedience training, and dog tricks are somehow not based on dog psychology is false.
• The claim that food only works for obedience training and dog tricks is false.
• The claim that using food in dog training is bribery, and somehow ineffective is false.
• The claim that using food is humanizing the dog and therefore inappropriate is false.
• The claim that reward dog training is only based on food is false.
• The claim that aversive dog training, particularly physical force training is more effective at behavior modification than reward training is false.
• The claim that physical force is required to modify dog behavior is false.
• The claim that physical force is an integral part of dog psychology is false.

Both aversive and reward techniques, can be used to “train” our dog to sit on command, to sit instead of dig on command, to drop whatever he is chewing, to chew his toy instead of our shoes, and to dig in the sand pit instead of in the rose-bed.

The divide between dog psychology, dog behavior modification, and dog training simply does not exist.

Many of these supposed behavior modification techniques, including leash jerks, alpha rolls, and finger pokes, are aversive conditioning techniques.

Both aversive and reward techniques, can be used to “train” good behaviors, as well as stop bad behaviors.

Dog Psychology and Dominance/Pack Theory

Dog Psychology and Dominance/Pack Theory

Dominance theory is based on the observation that wolf packs and wild dog packs are ruled by an alpha male and an alpha female. This alpha pair controls all of the pack’s resources and sets all of the pack rules. There are also rituals that pack members must follow including letting the alpha pair have access to the best food,best sleeping area, and best resources.

The theory is that when dogs come to live with us, we become part of their pack and must assume the alpha male and alpha female positions. Part of assuming this position, is to follow similar pack rituals including eating before our followers, not letting our followers have access to beds and couches, always walking in front of our followers, and using physical force to establish and maintain our pack leadership position.

However, recent studies have shown that wolf packs and also wild dog packs are a lot more complex than this simple alpha-pair model. Leadership tends to be more dynamic in nature, and the alpha dogs rule through the control of resources rather than through physical force.

Therefore, even dominance theory cannot be used to support the false claim that physical force is a necessary, or even an effective part of dog behavior modification.

Even dominance theory cannot be used to support the false claim that physical force is a necessary, or even an effective part of dog behavior modification.

While dominance theory and dog pack dynamics are interesting areas of study, the argument of whether they apply to us and our domesticated dogs, is actually a moot point.

Just as dogs are not humans, humans are not dogs.

Contrary to common belief, dogs know that they are dogs and not human. They also know that we are human and not dogs. It is us humans who frequently get confused on these matters.

Since we are human, we are not expected by our dogs to act like dogs. We must communicate with them in a way that they can understand, but that does not mean that we should try to act like them. Not only would we be poor imitators, but however well we pretend, we would still be human, and our dogs will always know what we are.

Because our dogs live in our very complex human world, it is necessary for us to assume leadership and teach them our rules. We must provide for them not just in terms of food and shelter, but also in terms of their health and safety.

To properly manage the safety of a dog (to himself, to other dogs, and to the people around him) it is necessary to institute certain human rules, and to train him to follow those rules. Training of these rules can be achieved through aversive methods or reward methods.

It is as simple as that. No dominance theory required.

Just as dogs are not humans, humans are not dogs.

Dog Behaviorist vs. Dog Trainer

By using operant conditioning techniques, we can shape behavior to prepare our dog for obedience trials, or agility competitions. We can also modify behavior to make our dog into a good citizen at home.

A good dog trainer or dog behaviorist is someone who –

• Understands classical and operant conditioning theories,
• Has good technique (i.e. good timing, execution, redirection);
• Can quickly and accurately read a dog’s body language; and
• Is a good and patient teacher.

There are dog trainers, like Cesar Millan, who mostly use aversive training. There are dog trainers, like Victoria Stillwell, who mostly use reward training. And there are dog trainers who use both.

Reward dog training and aversive dog training have their own advantages and disadvantages, so make sure to pick a dog trainer that uses the style of training or behavior modification that you feel is most appropriate for you and your dog.

The Association of Pet Dog Trainers is a great resource for finding professional dog training help in your area.

By using operant conditioning techniques, we can modify behavior to make our dog into a good citizen at home.

Which is Better, Which is Right, and Which is Dog Psychology?

Many arguments arise in the dog behavior modification or dog training arena because many want to claim that their way is better or that their way is right.

To do this, they must first differentiate their way from all other ways. That is why there are so many terms, including dog psychology, dog behavior modification, dog training, dog tricks, and many more, describing essentially the same thing.

Moral judgements such as dog cruelty, dog bribery, evilness and goodness get thrown into the same pot and what results is a whole lot of smoke and not much else.

When we boil dog training or dog behavior modification down to its basics, we are always left with conditioning. And all of us use either aversive operant conditioning methods or reward operant conditioning methods to shape our dog’s behavior.

Both are dog psychology. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages.

I cannot say that one is absolutely better than the other, or that one is absolutely right. I can only say that I personally use reward dog training because it is more effective and less risky than the aversive methods I have tried.

Which is Better, Which is Right, and Which is Dog Psychology?

This trainer and many others, proudly proclaim that dogs must follow all of our commands, no matter how inane, pointless, or stupid.

Blind-loyalty is the order of the day, and apparently the only way that we can feel secure of our dog’s love.

Anything else, is an indication of our failure as a dog trainer, and dog owner.

Controlling a Dog's Behavior - Total Control or No Control

They all look in the same direction, get up together on command, run together on command, but always staying one step behind their God-like trainer. Suddenly, they all stop, their trainer had sneezed.

Was that a command? Nobody was sure. They need the next command, because when they do act on their own, they may get shocked by a collar, poked at, growled at, or pinned to the floor.

Ah, relief. The sneezing fit has passed, and a new command is issued. They all drop down, with synchronized precision. Then, as one, they all turn to wait for the next word from their God-trainer.

There was something terribly eerie about the whole scene – it reminded me of The Stepford Wives.

Stepford Dogs? - Nah, back to playing the way that dogs should.

Dog Control and Stepford Dogs

If our desire is to own a Stepford dog, then there are several available currently. There is the Mio from Hasbro, Tekno from Manley, or WowWee Wrex from WowWee.

True, our scientists have not yet perfected fur quality, or grace in movement, but these Stepford dogs can be perfectly controlled from a distance. We do not need to give them any food, they come potty trained, and already understand a list of basic commands.

There will never be any nuisance barking, no chewing on our shoes and rugs, no drooling, farting, licking, biting, or pawing; unless we program them to do so. Then, we can just activate the behavior that we want, with a click of our remote controller – no muss, no fuss.

The Mio, Tekno, and WowWee, sitting in a row like ducks. Look at how they behave in response to our clicks. Don’t we feel powerful now –

Our very own Stepford dogs, that are under our total and absolute control.

My dogs. They are not perfect, but then, neither am I. We make a good match!

Is Total Dog Control Necessary?

But what if we want a furry Stepford dog. One that moves more gracefully, is cute, furry, warm blooded, and is actually a living thing – with needs and goals of his own.

How can we turn one of those furry warm-blooded dogs, into a remote-control dog?

Perhaps a better question to ask is …

Why would we want to turn a perfectly delightful real dog, who is independent, unique, and special, into a robotic Stepford dog?

I suppose the independent spirit, really gets in the way of our synchronized precision work. All it takes is one rebel, who prefers to look at a squirrel instead of his trainer, to spoil our whole choreographic masterpiece.

Since synchronized obedience is so crucial to our dog-human relationship, let us consider how to create a Furry Stepford dog.

How to Create a Perfectly Controlled Dog

How to Create a Perfectly Controlled Dog

He ain't no Stepford Shiba - but that is why I love him.

Ok, now on to the important stuff. How does one go about converting a regular dog, into a perfectly controlled dog?

First of all, the independent spirit has to go.

How does one go about destroying an independent spirit?

There are an array of methods to choose from.

The best way, is to do it quickly, with a single traumatic event. The event must be extremely powerful and stressful, so that it will break our subject’s spirit, and turn him into a Furry Stepford Dog.

A trainer once relayed to me, how she achieved this amazing feat, with a Shiba Inu that was under her care. If you have ever lived with a Shiba Inu, you will know that they are charming dogs, but they can be extremely strong-willed, stubborn, and mischievous. In this case, subject Shiba was up to something, as most Shibas usually are.

In response to some digging and whining in the backyard, the SCT (Stepford Certified Trainer) gave Shiba multiple hard corrections with a choke chain, pinned Shiba to the ground, and growled at him. Shiba pooped and peed all over the place, and from then on, became a perfectly controlled Shiba.

Actually, it is more accurate to call him a perfectly controlled dog, because there were no longer any Shiba characteristics left.

Shiba Inu Sephy in one of his weird Shiba sleeping positions.

Are Fully Controlled Dogs Happy?

Are Fully Controlled Dogs Happy?

Are Stepford dogs happier than regular non-Stepford dogs?

In a way they are.

Stepford wives have a certain type of bliss, and I imagine Stepford dogs have the same. There can be a certain type of comfort in a robotic existence, because everything that we do is fully determined by someone else. We do not have to make any decisions, pursue our own goals, or take responsibility for our actions.

Stepford dogs are outwardly calm, show no aggression, do not bark or make any other noise, and will roll on the grass on command, to simulate a joyful demeanor. I suppose that is a certain type of happiness.

Are fully controlled Stepford dogs happier than regular dogs?

That would depend on the regular dog. Stray dogs certainly have a tough life. Other dogs are neglected, or simply left in the prison of their backyard, with little human attention, and nothing to do. Others may even get starved, kicked, or abused.

It is a tough life for some dogs.

If I had to guess, I would say that a Stepford dog has a better existence, than many of these neglected, abused, or stray dogs.

Luckily, there are also many dogs that are properly trained, exercised, and who share a relationship of mutual trust and respect with their human companions. Are Stepford dogs happier than these dogs?

Probably not. These true companion dogs have their spirit intact. They are properly trained and managed, so that they can live a life where they make their own choices, and need not participate in any synchronized activity, unless they choose to.

True companion dogs have their spirit intact. They make their own choices, and need not participate in any synchronized activity unless they choose to.

Rules and Discipline

This is not to say that we should let our dogs do whatever they want, and run around free range in the neighborhood, or even in our house.

All dogs need some rules, structure, and routine. High strung dogs need this even more, because a consistent routine will let them know what to expect from us, and from their environment. With a fixed routine, they will be less prone to stress and stress issues, such as separation anxiety.

The best way to train a dog, and to become his pack leader, is by controlling his resources. This is done through the Nothing in Life is Free program (NILIF).

It is also important to set up a consistent way of communication with our dog, so that we can teach him what are desirable behaviors, and what are undesirable behaviors. Training good behaviors and stopping bad behaviors, can be effectively achieved with reward dog training.

Some rules, discipline, and routine are necessary for all dogs.

Total Control vs. No Control

Total Control, No Control, or a Reasonable Level of Control?

Fun and safety can be had with a reasonable level of control.

Enduring a more controlled 'bath' after some fun water play.

One of the raging debates in the dog training arena, involves exactly this issue of control.

How much control should we exert over our dogs?

Some proponents of the total control camp, want to make the debate about total control vs. no control. Either our dog is a Stepford dog, or he is an accident waiting to happen.

Do not be fooled by this fake argument.

Between total control and no control, are a wide range of possibilities – those are not the only two options. The choice in dog training is not between a Stepford dog or an out-of-control dog, but rather between total control, and a reasonable level of control.

Careful management, combined with reward training is all that we need …

• To keep our dog safe.
• To teach him how to greet and interact with humans.
• To stop bad behaviors.
• To make him happy.
• To earn his love, loyalty, and respect.

Dogs are independent, living beings, with needs and goals of their own. Dogs are not robots that only eat and poop when we tell them to, and otherwise stay in a Down position by our feet.

My dogs are my companions. I am only their boss when I need to be, for their safety and happiness.

If we want a Stepford dog, then get one that is battery operated from Amazon. If we want a real dog, then do not try and make him into a Stepford dog.

If we want a Stepford dog, then get one that is battery operated from Amazon. If we want a real dog, then do not try and make him into a Stepford dog.

When we got back to the house, we took her straight out to the backyard where she quickly went to do her business.

Good Girl!

Those were the first words she learned, and they continue to be her favorite words.

A Puppy’s First Words - Good Girl!

Good Girl!

Good Girl is puppy Lara’s favorite words.

Good Girl is puppy Lara’s favorite words because after Good Girl comes a yummy food reward.

Good Girl is commonly referred to as a mark. In this case, we condition our dog to associate Good Girl with something positive by tying it to a food reward. Every time puppy hears Good Girl, she knows that she has done something desirable and is about to be rewarded for her good behavior. In this way, we can accurately time-mark a good behavior because it is easy and quick to say Good Girl.

Together with a mark for good behavior, there is also a no-mark for bad behaviors, e.g. No, or Ack-ack. Just as a mark is usually followed by a reward, a no-mark is usually followed by a punishment.

Most people associate punishment with physical punishment, but the most effective dog training techniques are NOT based on physical punishment. Instead, they are based on the control of resources.

By controlling what our dogs desire most (e.g., her freedoms, our attention and affection, her food, her toys) we can very effectively encourage good behaviors as well as discourage bad behaviors.

By controlling what our dogs desire most we can very effectively encourage good behaviors as well as discourage bad behaviors.

For example when puppy Lara displays an undesirable behavior, e.g. biting on furniture, I no-mark her, Ack-Ack and follow that up by redirecting her onto an acceptable toy to bite on. As a result, she knows what not to do, but at the same time I also give her alternative ways of redirecting her energy.

If she does not listen and keeps biting at the furniture then she loses access to furniture, i.e., I lead her away and get her to do something else. If she continues to try to bite on furniture, or decides to bite on me instead, then she loses all of her freedom and goes into a boring, low-stimulus, time-out area.

Redirecting behavior is much more effective than just saying no.

Some things that I have observed while training my dogs –

• Redirecting behavior is much more effective than just saying no. By redirecting behavior we tell our dogs what not to do, but we also tell them what to do instead.
• Controlling a dog’s resources is much more effective and less risky than physical punishment. By controlling a dog’s resources, we teach our dog that the best way to get what she wants is to do what we want. Cooperation always brings better results than physical force.
• Set puppy up for success. Start small and only escalate the punishment if puppy escalates her bad behavior. The more puppy succeeds, the more confident she will get, and the more she learns that doing what you say, gets her the most rewards!

No need to use a bite when a Shiba-Scream is sufficient.
~~[ Shiba Inu Sephy ]

Cooperation always brings better results than physical force.

Nose and Sit

Soon after Good Girl, puppy Lara learned her next word – Nose.

Nose is a hand-targeting exercise and it is very simple to learn and very useful.

I put some kibble in my hand and hold it a short distance away from puppy. Puppy will naturally want the food, so she will poke her nose at my hand. As soon as she does that, I say Good Girl, and give her a food reward.

Some puppies may mouth on your hand. I usually just ignore that behavior and wait for the nose touch. As soon as I feel a nose touch with no mouthing, I quickly mark that behavior (Good Girl) and reward that behavior.

Husky Puppy Lara is very good at learning new words.

Sit is great for getting puppy to calm down, to work for her food, to not jump, to not chew on furniture, etc.

After Nose, comes Sit. Sit is one of my favorite words because it is great for getting puppy to calm down, to work for her food, to not jump, to not chew on furniture, etc.

To train a Sit I put some kibble in my hand and make sure that puppy knows it is there. Then I slowly raise my hand slightly over the puppy’s head. Puppy will naturally want to follow the treat with her head; the head goes up and the rump goes down. As soon as that happens, I say Good Girl and reward puppy. At this point I don’t even say the word “Sit” yet.

Once puppy does a Sit consistently (based on the hand gesture), then I start to associate the word “Sit” with the behavior.

Some puppies may step back instead of sit down. When that happens I usually just repeat the hand gesture and then wait for the behavior. If that still doesn’t work, then I move on to do something else. A bit later, I give Sit training another try.

Everybody working for their supper.

Useful Puppy Words

Other useful puppy words include –

• Leave-It – Great for preventing food guarding and resource guarding problems down the road.
• Down
• Stay – Very useful for teaching a puppy door manners and to control excitement.
• Side – In addition to a Down, puppy has to lay fully on her left or right side. This command is very useful for grooming including teeth cleaning, and nail grinding.
• Paw, Spin, Shake, Crawl – This adds variety to our training sessions and is also a lot of fun.

Hand-Shake, Spin, and Crawl adds variety to our training sessions and is also fun.

What Are Your Puppy’s First Words?

What are some of your puppy’s favorite first words? Let us know in the comments section below.

What Are Your Puppy's Favorite First Words?

For reward training to work well, we must first identify what our dog likes. Then,

• We encourage desired behaviors by giving him a reward (positive reinforcement), or
• We discourage undesired behaviors by taking away a reward (negative punishment).

Some common myths about reward dog training –

1. Reward dog training does not work with dominant, stubborn, or aggressive dogs.
   My Shiba Inu is all of those things and reward methods worked much better on him than aversive dog training. Aversive methods just made him more aggressive.
2. Using food in dog training is bribery, because the dog should be doing the command for us.
   Dogs, like us, are motivated by a variety of things. Some of them are more food motivated, while others are more people motivated. We should use the rewards that are appropriate, based on the temperament and preferences of our dog.
   Note that in aversive dog training, the dog is not doing commands just for us either, but rather to avoid the aversive stimulus (e.g. pain).
3. Reward dog training does not show my dog that I am the boss or pack leader.
   The truth is, reward methods allows us to become a better pack leader than aversive methods. In fact, alpha wolves primarily control their members by controlling the pack’s resources – which is basically reward dog training.

Reward dog training.

Reward Dog Training – Good 1

Reward Dog Training – the good.

Helps to build a relationship based on trust.

One of the biggest advantage of reward dog training, is that there is little danger of losing our dog’s trust, even if we make some training mistakes. If we do not do dog obedience training for a living, we may not always execute our techniques perfectly, or even close to perfectly.

Some mistakes will be made, while we learn how to effectively train our dog.

If we are using reward dog training, a mistake may get our dog a bit confused, as to why he is receiving a reward. A string of continuous mistakes, may inadvertently encourage unwanted behaviors, such as jumping, but that is about as bad as it gets.

Aversive dog training, on the other hand, can very easily cause loss of trust. It may even lead to aggression.

In fact this University of Pennsylvania 2009 study shows that at least 25% of the dogs that are trained with confrontational methods, exhibit aggression during training.

“This study highlights the risk of dominance-based training, which has been made popular by TV, books and punishment-based training advocates,”Herron said. “These techniques are fear-eliciting and may lead to owner-directed aggression.”

Reward dog training helps to build a relationship based on trust.

Reward Dog Training – Good 2

Will not damage our dog either physically or mentally.

With reward dog training, the worst that happens to our dog is the removal of a reward. He may look at us cross-eyed, but he will not go home with a hurt trachea or other bodily harm. In contrast, this type of physical damage can occur, when certain aversive methods are not implemented properly.

Note that prolonged use of choke collars may cause harm to our dog, even when the collar is fitted and used as directed.

Reward dog training will not damage our dog either physically or mentally.

Reward Dog Training – Good 3

Helps to create a dog that is happy and eager to work.

When we only use reward dog training, our dog will be eager to work because work time means reward time.

Aversive dog training, on the other hand, may decrease our dog’s interest in working. Our dog may decide to just lie around and sleep, because it is safe, comfortable, and painless, to do so.

Leash training or dog training is not much fun and very stressful, when a dog keeps receiving physical corrections, even when he does not understand what is required of him.

Reward dog training helps to create a dog that is happy and eager to work.

Reward Dog Training – Bad 1

May not always solicit a prompt response to our commands.

For most dogs, a reward may not be as strong a motivator as pain (e.g. leash jerk, slap on the muzzle, finger jabs). In fact, some dogs may dislike an aversive stimulus to such an extent, that they fear it.

Fear is one of the strongest motivators for dogs. Most dogs will respond more consistently, and more promptly to it, compared to a reward.

Consistent and prompt response to commands becomes important, when our dog is involved in a life or death situation, for example when he is running into traffic. However, it should be pointed out that with proper management, we can prevent our dog from being in such dangerous circumstances.

In addition, pain based aversive training is risky, and does not guarantee full behavioral control. In fact, training mistakes and inaccurate timing, may result in even poorer command control, and increased aggression. Therefore, the best way to prevent a dog from running into traffic, is through proper equipment (e.g. doors and leashes), and proper management, similar to how we prevent children from running into traffic. After all, putting a shock collar on a young child, even to prevent the possibility of a traffic accident, would be unconscionable and against the law.

Reward dog training may not always solicit a prompt response to our commands.

Reward Dog Training – Bad 2

May sometimes require creativity to out-think our dog.

With reward dog training, we may need to get creative and come up with our own obedience training methods. This is especially true when we are trying to stop bad behaviors such as jumping, leash biting, or hand biting.

While there are many reward methods for stopping these behaviors, they may not always work with our dog. I.e. he may decide that the reward from his bad behavior, outweighs our offered reward or negative punishment. As a result, we may need to experiment with a variety of methods and reward systems, before finding one that works well with our dog.

In contrast, fear is a more universal strategy. The same pain based aversive method, for example the leash jerk, can be applied to a wide variety of situations.

Reward dog training may sometimes require creativity to out-think our dog.

Reward Dog Training – Bad 3

May require that we bring along some food or toys when on walks and outings.

Remember though, that dogs do not care about the monetary cost of a reward. Many dogs consider sticks, pine cones, and leaves to be quite exciting and awesome. When I find myself in a situation where I need a quick reward, some are usually readily available in the environment around me.

In fact, it is often very desirable to use the dogs and people we meet during walks, as rewards for our dog. For example, if my dog does not jump, he gets to go up and meet the new person. Once he starts jumping, I move him back, do a sit, and restart the greeting.

As our dog training lessons progress, we can begin to phase out the food rewards. Be careful to phase the rewards out slowly, so that our dog stays motivated.

We may have to carry food or toys when on walks and outings.

Reward Dog Training – Bad 4

May cause our dog to gain weight.

Obesity can sometimes become a problem, if we give our dog too many dog treats.

This issue can be easily resolved by –

• Using part of our dog’s regular meals as training rewards,
• Using smaller sized treats, and
• Using a lower calorie food or treat.

All dogs have to eat. It is much more effective to make our dog work for his food, rather than giving it to him for free in a silver bowl.

Reward dog training is just better dog kung fu!

I started out with aversive dog training but now, I use reward methods almost exclusively. Aversive methods made my Shiba Inu develop even more behavioral issues, including aggression.

In my opinion, it is much better to start with reward dog training because it is safer, builds a stronger bond with our dog, and is easier to implement without harmful side effects. Reward training takes a bit more time, and may not be as visceral as aversive mathods, but it is a more comfortable, fun, and effective way for dogs to learn.

Reward dog training is just better dog kung fu!

• We discourage undesired behaviors by applying an aversive or unpleasant stimulus (positive punishment), and
• We encourage desired behaviors by stopping the aversive stimulus (negative reinforcement).

Different aversive methods may place more or less stress on our dog. In general, pain based methods are the most stressful.

Aversive Dog Training.

Aversive Dog Training – Good 1

May get more consistent and prompt responses to commands.

As with any animal, a dog is very sensitive to danger and threats, because they are especially crucial to survival in the wild. When faced with a stressful stimulus (e.g. pain or a dominance threat), a dog will most likely try to resolve the situation quickly, so that he may return to a safe and comfortable state.

Many dogs will consistently perform a Sit, Down, or Stay, because they do not wish to endure pain and stress. Once we get consistent and prompt responses from our dog, we can give him more freedom, and let him participate in a wider range of activities.

Many aversive dog trainers point out, that a good command response is crucial when we are yelling Stop, and our dog is running into traffic.

Note however, that even extreme pain does not always guarantee full behavioral control. In addition, inaccurate timing and mistakes in training, may result in even poorer command control, as well as increased aggression. Therefore, the best way to prevent a dog from running into traffic, is through proper equipment (e.g. doors and leashes), and proper management.

Aversive Dog Training – Good 2

May show results in a shorter time-span.

As described above, dogs can be very motivated to avoid an aversive stimulus, especially pain. Therefore, we will probably start to see results to simple commands, in a shorter period of time.

In fact, a dog will respond best in the initial obedience training sessions.

Performance may degrade later, once our dog gets used to or habituated to the aversive stimulus.

Aversive Dog Training – Good 3

Do not need to carry around rewards such as treats or toys.

We always have what we need with us – our hands, collar, and leash.

Aversive dog training may show results in a shorter time-span.

Aversive Dog Training – Bad 1

May cause loss of trust.

One of the most dangerous aspects of aversive dog training is losing our dog’s trust.

Care must be taken not to over-correct him. We always want to try and set our dog up for success, and reduce the chances of him making mistakes. If we are seen as the frequent source of unpleasant things, he will lose trust in us, and may start to avoid us.

The trick of implementing aversive methods is redirection. We want to make it seem like the source of unpleasantness is not coming from us, but is a direct result of his inappropriate actions.

For example, spraying bitter apple on furniture is an effective and safe aversive method, because the dog does not associate the smelly furniture with us. Instead, he discovers on his own, that certain pieces of wood and stuffing have an unpleasant taste, so it is best to avoid them.

As soon as our dog complies with our command, we want to follow up an aversive correction with praise and rewards. This shows him that we are also the source of positive attention and good things.

When using aversive obedience training, timing is crucial.

Time our aversive correction and subsequent praise, accurately. In this way, our dog does will not get confused and frustrated, because he will know what the aversive stimulus is for, and how he can make it go away.

Aversive Dog Training – Bad 2

May encourage aggression and other unwanted side effects.

There are four ways a dog can deal with the stress of an aversive stimulus – fight, flight, freeze, or appease. Depending on the temperament of our dog, and his level of trust and respect for us, he may choose to fight or flee, rather than follow a command (appease).

We can correct this by refining our aversive technique. In particular, ensure that we are –

• Using the appropriate level of force,
• Using the right timing,
• Not over-correcting, and
• Redirecting the source of correction away from ourselves.

If a dog continuously chooses to fight, then we are encouraging aggression in him, and he may ultimately become a dangerous dog. If a dog continuously chooses to run away (flight), then we may break his spirit, and he may become a fearful and unstable dog.

If we are not careful, our dog may also associate the aversive stimulus to objects in the environment, or to the environment itself. For example, if a leash jerk is always applied whenever he sees another dog, he may start to associate the pain with the other dog, rather than to his lunging and jumping actions. This may make him aggressive or fearful toward other dogs.

In fact, this University of Pennsylvania 2009 study shows that at least 25% of the dogs that are trained with confrontational methods, exhibit aggression during training.

“This study highlights the risk of dominance-based training, which has been made popular by TV, books and punishment-based training advocates,”Herron said. “These techniques are fear-eliciting and may lead to owner-directed aggression.”

Aversive Dog Training may encourage aggression and other unwanted side effects.

Aversive Dog Training – Bad 3

May injure our dog if not implemented correctly.

When we are using an aversive collar such as a choke chain or prong collar, make sure to consult a trainer on how to fit it, and properly use it. The choke chain is especially dangerous as it can cause harm with extended use, even when fitted properly.

All pain and dominance-based aversive methods, are best implemented under the direction of a trained professional.

Incorrect implementation of some of these techniques, may cause physical harm to our dog, as well as physical harm to us and others, if the dog becomes aggressive.

Aversive Dog Training – Bad 4

May become ineffective once our dog gets habituated to the aversive stimulus.

If we overuse an aversive method, our dog will probably become habituated to it. Once this occurs, he will be less motivated to respond to our commands, because he has become used to experiencing a certain level of pain.

At this point, increasing the force of our aversive stimulus may be necessary, and this will increase wear and tear on our dog. To avoid this possibility, apply the proper amount of force from the beginning (not too hard or too soft). The actual force needed will depend on the reason for the correction, and on the temperament of our dog.

It is best to get a professional trainer to show us the proper amount of force needed, so that we do not over-correct or under-correct our dog.

What do you think of aversive dog training?

Aversive methods are more visceral, and have a more pronounced effect, especially in the short term. However, as described above, pain based techniques are also risky and can increase aggression in our dogs. Pain will also increase stress and lower quality of life.

Does aversive dog training work?

It depends on what we mean by work.

If we are interested in providing a good quality of life for our dog, then it is best to apply reward training methods, which are safer and leads to a strong dog-human bond.

The little puppy is very curious and will get into trouble every chance he gets.

To save ourselves a lot of pain and to save our puppy from stress, we want set up a fixed schedule which includes crate time, play time, walk time, as well as handling and grooming time.

1. Set up a schedule and carefully supervise our puppy.

When our puppy is out and about in a non-dog-proof area, we need to supervise him closely. Close supervision will give us the opportunity to teach puppy right from wrong, without too much damage to our furniture and belongings.

If I do not have the time, I usually crate puppy or put puppy on a tie-down.

If I do not have the time,

• I usually crate puppy, when he is home alone, or
• I put puppy on a tie-down, when I am home but unable to fully supervise.

If you are concerned about crating your puppy, here is what the Humane Society of the United States and the American Dog Trainer’s Network have to say about dogs and crates.

When I am away for a long period of time (> 3 hours), I put puppy in a long-term enclosure. This can be a secure puppy pen or a safe room (e.g. kitchen). I make sure there is nothing in the enclosure that my puppy can destroy. I also put in some bedding, a water bowl, puppy pads, and safe chew toys.

As a general rule, the longest time to crate a puppy is (age of dog in months) hours. For example, an 8 week old puppy can be kept a maximum of (2 month old) = 2 hours in a crate. Note that this is just a general guideline for the maximum crate time.

Most puppies need to go outside more frequently than that, for exercise and potty training. I take my puppy outside as soon as he wakes up, and right after any kind of vigorous play. In the beginning, Husky puppy Shania needed to potty after about 10-15 minutes of play. Here is a more detailed table of maximum crate time.

At night, I crate my dogs in the bedroom. Sleeping together helps with the bonding process, and shows them that they are part of the pack.

When I am away for a long period of time (> 3 hours) I put puppy in a long-term enclosure.

2. Keep a drag-lead on our puppy

2. Keep a drag-lead on our puppy.

I put a drag-lead on my puppy when he is roaming freely in the house.

This will help us control our ball of energy without resorting to chasing games. When my puppy tries to run away, all I need to do is step on the drag-lead.

I use a regular, thick (1 inch wide), flat collar or harness and not an aversive collar (choke chain, prong collar). I make sure to cut off the loop on the leash, so that it does not catch on anything around the house. I start with a longer (6 feet), light leash, and then shorten it depending on my puppy’s behavior. I only do this while I am around to properly supervise my puppy.

Once he matures and is better behaved, I switch to a leash tab or remove the drag-lead altogether.

It is best to use a secure 6 foot leash during puppy leash training and not the flexi-leash. The 6 foot leash gives us better control of our puppy, and is necessary to keep him safe when he decides to go chasing after dogs, cats, or squirrels.

3. Start with reward obedience training

3. Start with reward obedience training.

Shiba Inu Sephy sits and waits patiently to be let into the house.

It is most effective and least risky to start our puppy with reward obedience training. I started out with aversive techniques, and it made my Shiba puppy develop additional behavioral issues, including aggression. In fact, my aversive based dog trainer said that it was inappropriate use pain based techniques, such as leash jerks and alpha rolls, on dogs that are younger than 6 months old.

Today, I prefer to use reward training because it is more effective at motivating my dogs, stopping undesirable behaviors, and building a strong bond.

With reward training, we establish ourselves as the pack leader by controlling our dog’s resources through the Nothing in Life is Free (NILIF) program. This simply means that my puppy has to do something for me, for example a Sit, before he gets any resource (e.g. food, toys, affection, freedom) in return. Any bullying will be ignored, or will result in the removal of that resource.

Many people make the mistake of equating pack leadership with the use of aversive training. Aversive dog trainers say that difficult, strong-willed, dominant dogs require stronger, punishment based methods in order to show him who is boss.

This is not true.

One of my dogs (a Shiba Inu) is extremely strong willed, and can be quite difficult, but he responds much better to reward training.

Be careful of advertisements for 10 minute puppy obedience training programs and the like. There are no miracle cures in puppy training.

Pack leadership is most effectively attained through reward training.

4. Bite inhibition training

Puppy biting is common because puppies are naturally curious, and want to examine everything with their mouths.

The good news is puppies do not have the jaw strength of an adult dog, and will not do much damage to us when biting. Because of this, puppy-hood is a good time for bite inhibition, or soft mouth training.

One of the best ways to train a dog to have a soft mouth is through hand-feeding.

I hand-feed my puppy at least some of his kibble every day. If he bites too hard when getting his food, I do a sharp ouch or yelp and ignore him for a few seconds. Then, I retry the exercise. If he takes food from me gently, I praise him and continue feeding without any breaks.

We can also combine hand-feeding with obedience commands, and dog grooming sessions. Hand-feeding also helps with food aggression issues, so I continue with it even through adulthood.

Ian Dunbar’s book After You Get Your Puppy, gives a good overview of bite inhibition, and how to best train our puppy to have a soft mouth.

A puppy, and ultimately an adult dog who has a soft mouth is a great asset. Because my Shiba Inu has good bite inhibition, we were able to solve many of his behavior problems, which would have been difficult to deal with if he were biting at full strength.

Because my Shiba Inu has good bite inhibition, we were able to solve many of his problems which would have been difficult to deal with if he was biting at full strength.

5. Practice calm and assertive energy

This is something that is always emphasized by Cesar Millan (the Dog Whisperer) and it is extremely important; especially for a hyperactive puppy.

If we interact with a dog using nervous, submissive, fearful, or otherwise weak (non-assertive) energy, the dog will sense that and start acting out even more.

Anger, impatience, frustration, and all other non-calm energies will only excite our puppy, and cause him to exhibit even more extreme behaviors.

In order to achieve calm, assertive energy, we must first overcome whatever fears we may feel toward our dog, and become his pack leader. This is much easier to do if we have achieved good bite inhibition.

6. A busy puppy is a good puppy

6. A busy puppy is a good puppy.

Make sure to always have control of a puppy's play-time.

Puppies have a lot of energy, and will get into trouble if we do not keep them busy.

I make my puppy work for ALL of his food. Instead of presenting everything to him in a silver bowl, I use his daily kibble and treats for obedience sessions, bite inhibition training, handling, and grooming. If there is food left over, I put it in interactive food toys.

I also schedule play time with my puppy. Some games that my dogs like include flirt pole, the water hose game, and sometimes soccer.

When I start with a new game, I make it fun by handing out lots of treats for effort. Once my puppy understands the game, I switch to only treating his more stellar performances.

Make sure to always have control of a puppy’s play-time. This means that we own all the toys, and we decide when to start and stop the games. Play-time can be very useful in training our puppy to calm down, and to pay attention to us even when he is excited.

I also schedule two or three short obedience training sessions (10-15 minutes) with my puppy every day. This helps to establish me as the leader, gives my puppy some mental exercise, and provides a good bonding experience.

Other good ways to exercise our puppy (after full vaccination) include neighborhood walks, walks in the park, dog playgroups, and dog sports.

I schedule two or three short (10-15 minutes) obedience training sessions with my puppy every day.

7. We are not alone

The most important thing to remember while bringing up a difficult puppy is that we are not alone!

Our puppy journey will be filled with a lot of joy, but there will also be challenges and pit-falls. Sometimes, we may feel discouraged by our puppy’s behavior, or with his performance in dog obedience class.

We are not alone!

There are many support groups out there where we may post our questions. I also find it helpful to visit these groups when I feel discouraged, or when I feel like my puppy is some mutant strain of devil dog.

Do not think that you are a bad dog owner or trainer when your puppy behaves badly. Many other dog owners are facing the exact same problems. Also remember that with proper rules and training, our puppy’s behavior will improve with time.

7. We are not alone.

This choice will affect the happiness and well-being of our dog, as well as shape our long-term relationship with our furry best friend.

Dog training is an area where emotions run hot, and we will hear many strong opinions or judgments from just about anyone and everyone.

Dog Obedience Training - Good and Bad

Reward dog training is very effective with Shiba Inu Sephy.

The key to dog obedience training is not to be overly influenced by any one source. Gather information on a variety of methods, from a variety of sources, then judge which is the best one for you and your dog.

Some people may tell us that, “Obedience method X will never work for our dog, because he is too dominant, stubborn, fearful, or aggressive“.

Simplistic statements like these are never true. It is better to research the training method ourselves, and form our own opinion.

Basically, there are two classes of dog obedience training:

1. Reward obedience training (give/remove something that our dog likes), and
2. Aversive obedience training (give/remove something that our dog dislikes).

Dog Obedience Training – Reward and Aversive.

Reward Obedience Training

With reward obedience training, we first identify what our dog likes. Then, we encourage or discourage various behaviors by granting (positive reinforcement) or taking away (negative punishment) access to these rewards.

For example, when our dog sits, he gets a dog treat. If our dog is calm, he gets to interact with other dogs. We stop our dog from chewing on shoes, by redirecting him onto a Kong toy. Which rewards work best, depends on our dog’s personality and on his breed.

My Shiba Inu, for example, is a hunting breed and he is very motivated by chasing games. He also likes to explore new environments, and interact with other dogs. I will often use these as rewards while training him.

One common misconception is that we will not be an effective pack leader if we only use reward obedience training.

This is FALSE.

Pack leadership is most effectively achieved through the control of resources. We teach our dog that he gets the things that he wants most, such as food, toys, access to locations, and access to pack members, by following our lead.

Reward Obedience Training.

Reward Obedience Training – The Good

Reward Obedience Training - The Good.

1. Reward training helps to build a strong relationship based on trust.

Reward techniques teach a dog that all good things come from us. To get what he wants, he must first do what *we* want. Since we are viewed as a source for all of his needs, our dog will naturally gravitate toward us.

In addition, a dog learns that he has to work for his own keep. This engages him in interesting activities, helps him stay sharp, and helps to build confidence.

Reward obedience training helps to build a relationship based on trust.

2. Reward training will not damage our dog either physically or mentally.

With reward training, the worst that happens is the removal of a reward. In contrast, physical aversive methods can cause damage to a dog, especially when not implemented properly.

Long term use of leash corrections may cause harm to our dog even when properly applied.

3. Reward training helps to create a dog that is happy and eager to work.

When we only use reward methods, our dog will be eager to work because work time means reward time.

Reward obedience training helps to create a dog that is happy and eager to work.

Reward Obedience Training – The Bad

Reward Obedience Training - The Bad.

1. Reward training may not always solicit a prompt response to our commands.

For some dogs, a reward may not be as strong a motivator as an aversive stimulus, such as pain or fear.

Reward obedience training may not always solicit a prompt response to our commands.

2. . Reward training may sometimes require us to think outside the box.

With reward techniques, we may need to get creative and come up with our own strategies for motivating our dog. This is especially true when we are trying to stop bad behaviors because our dog may derive more enjoyment from the bad act.

Reward obedience training may sometimes require creativity to out-think our dog.

3. Reward training may require that we bring along some treats or toys when on walks and outings.

This can be an inconvenience. However, we can also use the environment, and the objects around us as incentives. All it takes is a bit more imagination, and a bit more understanding of our dog.

4. Reward training may cause our dog to gain weight.

Obesity can sometimes become a problem if we give our dog too many treats. I easily avoid this by using my dog’s regular food rations as part of his training rewards.

Reward obedience training may cause our dog to gain weight.

Aversive Obedience Training

I divide aversive obedience training into three classes:

1. Pain based (e.g. leash correction, muzzle slaps, ear pinch, shock collar);
2. Dominance based (e.g. alpha rolls); and
3. Other – which includes making loud noises (e.g. shaking or dropping a can of pennies, loud horn, clashing pots), using unpleasant smells (e.g. spraying bitter apple on furniture, spraying citronella on muzzle), using unpleasant sensations (spraying water on muzzle, dumping water on body) or anything else that our dog dislikes.

Different aversive methods may place more or less stress on our dog. In general, pain and dominance based methods are the most stressful.

With aversive obedience training, we encourage or discourage behaviors by applying (positive punishment) or stopping (negative reinforcement) an unpleasant stimulus.

For example, if our dog breaks from his stay before we release him, we give him a leash jerk. If our dog starts biting on the leash, we give him a leash jerk, or spray water on his muzzle until he stops. If he jumps, we give him a leash jerk or knee him.

Cesar Millan, one of the most popular dog trainers on television, uses mostly aversive obedience training. Millan has a lot of confidence, as well as a natural talent for reading dogs. This is very important when applying aversive techniques because if they are not implemented properly, they may cause physical and mental harm.

There are a variety of other trainers that use a combination of both reward and aversive techniques, such as The Monks of New Skete.

If aversive training methods are not implemented properly, they may cause physical and mental harm.

Aversive Obedience Training – The Good

Aversive Obedience Training - The Good.

1. Aversive training may get more consistent and prompt responses to commands.

Many dogs will perform a Sit, Down, or Stay, consistently and quickly because they do not wish to face the stress of an aversive stimulus. Once we get consistent and prompt responses from our dog, we can give him more freedom and let him participate in a wider range of activities.

2. Aversive training may show results in a shorter time-span.

As described above, dogs can be very motivated to avoid pain and threats. We will probably start to see results in a shorter period of time compared to reward training.

3. Do not need to carry around rewards such as treats or toys.

We always have what we need.

A leash and a secure backyard are probably more effective than aversive obedience training for keeping a dog from running into traffic.

Aversive Obedience Training – The Bad

Aversive Obedience Training - The Bad.

1. Aversive training may cause loss of trust.

One of the most dangerous aspects of aversive techniques is losing our dog’s trust. If we over-correct our dog, he may start to associate us with the painful aversive stimulus, and lose trust in us.

Shiba Inu Sephy was a lot less trusting when we applied aversive obedience training.

2. Aversive training may encourage aggression and other unwanted side effects.

If we do not implement an aversive method with the proper timing, force, and redirection, our dog may develop aggression toward us and other people. A recent University of Pennsylvania study shows that if we are aggressive to our dogs, they will be more likely to develop aggression issues.

Follow up an aversive correction with praise and rewards.

3. Aversive training may injure our dog if not implemented correctly.

Incorrect implementation of some of these techniques may cause physical harm to our dog. It may also cause physical harm to us and others, when the dog responds to the aversive stimulus with aggression.

4. Aversive training may become ineffective once our dog gets habituated to the stimulus.

If we overuse an aversive method, it is very probable that our dog will become habituated to it (e.g. he becomes used to the pain). Once this occurs, the dog will be less motivated to respond to our commands because the pain or aversive stimulus is no longer a strong enough deterrent.

Aversive obedience training may encourage aggression and other unwanted side effects.

Dog Obedience Training

Carefully consider which techniques are most suited for you and your dog. Be flexible and do not be afraid to change approaches if the current methods are ineffective, or start to cause aggressive dog behavior.

There are four dog obedience training choices:

1. Mostly aversive training with little praise and few treats (Cesar Millan).
2. Only reward training (Suzanne Clothier, Patricia McConnell, Ian Dunbar, Victoria Stillwell).
3. Mixture of aversive and reward training (Monks of New Skete);
4. Only no-pain and no-dominance aversive methods, combined with reward training.

I use reward obedience training with my dogs and it works out great.

Indeed Shiba Inus are not for the faint-hearted, and they are not recommended for first-time dog owners.

Shiba Inu Training Secrets.

Despite this warning, my heart was already set on a Shiba Inu puppy. I had a lot of free time then, so I thought I would be able to handle one little dog. After all, how difficult can a small puppy be?

Little did I know, a Shiba Inu can be a major pain in the ass!

Even dog veterans have problems with their first Shiba. In fact, many experienced trainers were unable to handle my Shiba Sephy.

Here are the Shiba Inu training secrets that helped me turn my devil dog into a model citizen. Well, maybe not a model citizen, but a fun citizen that I truly enjoy living with.

Do not be fooled - A Shiba Inu can be a major pain in the ass.

1. There are No Miracle Cures

When I first got Shiba Sephy, he was a big challenge.

Some of his favorite daily activities include biting my hands, running crazily around the house, biting on curtains, vicious leash biting, jumping on me and others, humping my leg, and much more.

I was desperate to get him under control, and did a lot of research online and off-line. I read a lot of online articles and bulletin boards. I called local dog trainers, watched all the dog training shows on television, and read a lot of dog training books.

During this time, I found something that looked like a miracle … a 10 minute Shiba online training program. According to this advertisement, there were some special “Shiba words” that will magically turn a Shiba into a Lassie. Yeah right!

Luckily, I did not succumb to my desperation, and did not buy this product.

The fact is, there are NO “miracle cures” for training a Shiba Inu.

The secret of Shiba training, is simply to exercise extreme patience, and find humor in our Shiba’s antics. Use reward obedience training, and always be firm but fair.

A Shiba will probably never be a Lassie, or perfect dog. However, if you are looking for a dog with a big personality, who will always make you laugh with his sneaky and roguish ways, then the Shiba Inu is for you.

A Shiba Inu will never be a model citizen but he will most surely make you laugh and smile.

2. Use Passive Resistance

2. Use Passive Resistance.

Shiba Inus get bored easily and do not like being ignored.

The best way to deal with Shiba Inu misbehavior is through passive resistance.

Shibas get bored easily and do not like being ignored. They really enjoy their freedom, and also like being close to their human pack. We can control a Shiba best by controlling these most desired resources: our attention, and his freedom.

If we actively try to stop our Shiba either through physical punishment (e.g. alpha rolls, leash jerk) or active restraint, he will fight back. This encourages him to practice rough play, and biting on people.

If we back away, or become fearful of our Shiba, he will learn that he “wins” by showing dog aggression.

If we over-correct our Shiba by exerting too much physical force, or by correcting him too frequently, we will lose his trust, and it is difficult to regain a Shiba Inu’s trust.

What works best with a Shiba is NOT to engage in a physical competition, but rather to engage in a mental one.

There are certain resources that Sephy really enjoys including walks, treats, toys, and his freedom.

When I want to take him on his walk, I go to the door with his lead, and call him to me. Initially, he would dally and not really want to come, because he wants to go walking on his own schedule. I count to three. If he does not come, I leave and go about my own business.

After a short time, Sephy will amble over, and pester me to take him on his walk. This is done through begging, and whining. I ignore all this bad dog behavior. When I have a break in my schedule again, I repeat the above exercise.

A Shiba will quickly learn that to get the resources that he wants most (e.g. go on walks), he has to do it according to our rules, and our schedule. It is important to practice the Nothing in Life is Free (NILIF) program with a Shiba.

Set a Shiba Inu up for success, so that we can reward him frequently, and keep him interested in doing what we want.

Another Shiba favorite is to steal something he is not supposed to, and then run away with it, thereby engaging a fun chase game.

A Shiba Inu is very agile, and it will be difficult for us to catch him. I always try to keep an eye out for my sneaky Shiba, and stop him before he steals an object. I also put a drag lead on him, so that I can easily catch him by stepping on the lead.

Note: Use a regular flat collar with the drag lead, and not an aversive collar. Aversive collars such as prong collars or choke chains, should only be used during supervised training sessions. Cut the loop on the drag-lead, so that it does not catch on anything in the house.

Only give our Shiba Inu attention when he refrains from bad Shiba behaviors.

3. Rules, Rules, Rules

3. Rules, Rules, Rules.

No biting on people. Shiba Inu Sephy is redirected onto a toy.

Shiba Inus are naturally dominant. If we do not provide them with rules, that we consistently enforce, they will take over the house.

It is best to enforce those rules as early as possible. This ensures that Shiba does not develop any bad habits later on, that will be more difficult to break.

Some of Shiba Sephy’s rules:

1. No Biting

The most important rule that I place on Sephy, is no biting on people. Shiba Inus are a very mouthy breed. Their instinct is to use their mouth in a wide variety of situations, including when they are excited, frustrated, and fearful.

They also have large teeth, and can accidentally hurt children and seniors. If Sephy starts biting on me or on others, I no-mark the behavior (Ack, ack). If he continues, I put him on a time-out.

It is also important to teach a Shiba bite inhibition. In this way, when he loses control of himself and does bite, he will not cause much harm.

No food aggression.

No rough play with people.

2. No Food Aggression or Resource Guarding

Prevent our Shiba Inu from guarding resources. Shibas have a don’t back down, don’t surrender attitude. Therefore, the best way to teach them not to guard resources, is to use reward training techniques.

Show them that people and other dogs coming near them, while they are eating or playing with their toys, is a good thing. Prevent stealing, and practice exchanging objects. This teaches them that giving up something, does not mean it is gone forever.

If we use physical force to grab a toy away from our Shiba, he will likely become more possessive over his objects. He will also lose trust in us, and may use aggression to protect himself, and his belongings.

3. No Rough Play

I do not play rough with Sephy. He gets to wrestle with my other dogs, but no wrestling is allowed with humans.

I also do not play any dominance games with him, for example, no Tug-of-War. The few times that I did play Tug with Shiba Sephy, he followed very strict rules during the game. However, when I took him out for walks, he would start playing tug with the leash (leash biting).

Shiba Inu Sephy only does rough play with other dogs.

4. Socialize Our Shiba Inu

4. Socialize Our Shiba Inu.

Socialize our young Shiba Inu to many sights, sounds, and smells.

Shiba Inus have an extreme play style that many dogs may not like.

Shiba Inus can get aggressive to unfamiliar things including objects, dogs, people, and environments.

They are also naturally stubborn, and may become aggressive when forced to do things that they do not like.

Socialize our young Shiba to many sights, sounds, and smells, and he will be ready to handle new things as a confident, and well-balanced adult. Make sure that new experiences are always positive, and at worst, neutral.

Some things to consider while socializing our Shiba Inu:

1. Shiba Inus have an extreme play style, that many dogs may not like.

When he was young, I used to take Sephy to enclosed dog parks. During this time, his favorite play partners were larger dogs, and young Pit Bulls. Shibas like doing wrestling and rough play, which can easily overwhelm other small dogs.

Choose our Shiba’s play-mates carefully, so that a fun time can be had by all.

Shiba Inus dislike handling.

2. Shiba Inus dislike handling.

Socialize a Shiba to touching and grooming, as early as possible. Pair the touch and groom sessions with very good treats, so that he will associate handling with positive experiences.

Do not use physical force to do any grooming. This will make it into an unpleasant experience, and our Shiba will fight us every step of the way.

Instead, groom gently, and make it short, fun, and rewarding.

3. Shiba Inus do not generally like people petting them from above.

Petting from above can be seen as a dominance move by dogs, and Shibas may see this as a threat.

We can slowly desensitize our Shiba to this move, by pairing head petting with good food rewards. At the same time, instruct people to approach from under our dog’s head, and scratch his chest.

Shiba Inus do not generally like people petting them from above.

5. Control Our Own Energy

An important thing to remember while interacting with our Shiba, is to control our own energy.

Shiba Inus are especially sensitive to the energy of their owners, and the people around them.

When I first got puppy Sephy, he was extremely mouthy. In particular, he would resort to biting when I stopped him from doing something unacceptable.

This made me become afraid of him.

The more afraid I became, the worse Sephy behaved. As soon as I got fearful, he would start to hump my leg, grab my clothes, jump on me, or bite my hands, arms, and legs.

5. Control Our Own Energy.

Anger and frustration will also elicit extreme Shiba Inu behaviors.

Anger and frustration will also elicit extreme Shiba behaviors.

In the early days, I had a dog walker take Sephy out for group walks at the park. When the walker tried to stop Sephy from doing something disruptive, he would object, and try out one of his Shiba moves, including alligator rolls, leash biting, hand biting, and of course the Shiba scream.

The dog walker naturally got embarrassed when Sephy screamed like he was about to die. There were other people around, and some of them thought that she was mistreating the poor dog. Sephy easily sensed her embarrassment and frustration. From then on, the Shiba scream was his favorite weapon to use against her.

With a Shiba Inu, it is important to stay calm at all times.

Once I was able to control my fear and remain calm, things improved significantly with my Shiba Inu.

With a Shiba Inu, it is important to stay calm at all times.

If we lose our cool, Shiba will sense it and continue to use this weakness against us.

The best way to handle a misbehaving Shiba, is to stay calm, and remove him to a quiet, lower stimulus area, as soon as possible. If he continues with his bad behavior, he gets his freedoms revoked with a time-out. Remember that fear, anger, frustration, and other extreme emotions will only make the problem worse.

Once I was able to control my fear and remain calm, things improved significantly with my Shiba.

Sephy will never be a model-citizen, but nowadays, he is actually very fun to be with. He is goofy, he is funny, and he usually stays out of serious trouble.

Shibas can be a big challenge to live with, but they are well worth the effort. They have a great personality, and they are always up to something that will make us laugh.

I love my Shiba Inu.

He is one of my best buddies, and whenever I see him, I just have to smile.

Gotta love a Shiba Inu!