Shiba Inus tend to know what they like and dislike and they are not shy about communicating this information to their owners.
Shiba Sephy is particular about his food, how and when he is touched, how he is held, stepping on puddles and wet mats, and of course …
he has his own ideas on how other dogs should or should not behave in his royal Shiba presence.
Here are some things I have noticed about Shiba Sephy when it comes to meeting dogs.
You’re not the boss of me
Shibas are rebels and do not like having a boss – human or canine. They may sometimes decide to follow certain requests from their human companions but only when there is cheese on the line.
When it comes to other dogs, they do not usually get along with dominant personalities – and this includes other Shibas!
- Shibas are not submissive and will not surrender even to a larger dog.
- Shibas like to play rough and wrestle.
- Shibas will bully other dogs if they can get away with it.
As a result, socializing your Shiba to other dogs can often be a challenge.
Size *does* matter
Shiba Sephy gets along much better with larger, playful dogs, who also like to play rough. I never let him play with smaller adult dogs because he will very quickly overwhelm them.
Puppies seem more tolerant, are more submissive, and usually like to wrestle, so Sephy has fun playing with smaller puppies.
To the right, my little Siberian puppy is showing Sephy who is boss!
If you are thinking of getting a second dog, make sure to get one who will be a good playmate with your first dog.
The “Human” factor
While socializing your Shiba, you must also deal with other dog owners, and many people are uncomfortable with the rough and tumble style of Shibas. During play, a Shiba can appear quite fierce, showing lots of teeth and making Shiba war-cries.
It is best to keep your Shiba away from fearful people and their dogs as they will likely project bad energy that may trigger extreme behavior in their dog and possibly even in yours. Do not socialize your Shiba with unbalanced dogs and unbalanced owners, as they may teach/cause your Shiba to engage in bad interaction habits including fear aggression and mouthing on people.
Just as it is important to screen your children’s friends, it is important to screen your Shiba’s friends.
Shiba Sephy is very sensitive to my emotions and to the emotions of the people around him. He quickly picks up on fear, frustration, anger, or excitement, and gets even more crazy.
While meeting other dogs, stay calm and do not put undue tension on the leash.
Personal space
Shibas do not generally like having dogs come unannounced into their space.
Many other guard breeds, such as German Shepherds, feel the same way.
If your Shiba has this preference, you should protect him from strange dogs. Tell other dog owners not to come too near because your Shiba is wary of new dogs. Suzanne Clothier describes this issue very well in her article "He just wants to say hi".
My Shiba is reactive to other dogs so I am very careful during dog-to-dog greetings. He is always supervised when he is with other dogs, and he is not allowed to bully or hump. He also does not enjoy new dogs sniffing his butt without permission, so I will body block dogs from going into his buttockal region.
For reactive dogs, it is best to introduce them slowly to other dogs and have one-on-one play dates. One-on-one play sessions are easier to supervise and there is less excitement and uncontrolled behavior.
On-leash vs. off-leash
A Shiba may display different behaviors when he is meeting dogs on-leash or off-leash.
The leash can sometimes create fear (Shiba can’t run away) and barrier frustration (Shiba can’t get to the other dog). As a result, a Shiba may show more aggression when he is on-leash compared to when he is off-leash. Nevertheless, it is useful to teach a Shiba polite greetings whether he is on or off-leash.
If your Shiba is only aggressive on-leash, then you can use off-leash time as a reward for good on-leash behavior. If you are unsure of your Shiba, first start desensitizing him to dogs from a distance and slowly work your way towards a greeting.
It is also possible to use a muzzle, but that may cause the same fear and barrier issues as the leash. Shiba Sephy does not like the muzzle and shuts down when he has a muzzle on. Another possibility is to let the dogs meet from across a fence, but this can also cause barrier frustration.
Desensitization from a distance has worked best on Shiba Sephy.
Spaying and neutering
Spaying or neutering can also help with the dog-to-dog socialization process.
Un-neutered males may posture more when in the company of other dogs. This can lead to dominance displays, which may escalate into dog aggression. Female dogs that are in heat should always be separated from all male dogs, as she may trigger competition among the males and cause a dog fight.
Some owners may be reluctant to spay or neuter their dogs because they are afraid that the process may change their dogs’ personality. According to the Humane Society of the United States,
A dog’s personality is formed more by genetics and environment than by sex hormones.
This article by the Dog Owner’s Guide also has useful information on spay and neuter surgery.
Socialize your Shiba slowly
Start socializing your Shiba by walking him on-leash in your own neighborhood. See how Shiba reacts to calm dogs, fenced reactive dogs that he can’t see, and then fenced reactive dogs that he can see.
Desensitize him to each of these situations slowly so that he does not practice any aggressive behaviors.
Remember to maintain calm energy when meeting other dogs. If you are tense, your Shiba will pick up on that energy, and get tense and reactive as well.
Once Shiba is calm around the neighborhood, you may want to take him to a nearby SPCA and desensitize him there. At the SPCA there are usually fewer dogs around than in a dog park, and SPCA dogs are usually handled by trainers or trained volunteers. There is less danger of things getting out of control at the SPCA.
Taking a dog obedience class is also a good way to socialize your Shiba and have him focus on you even when there are other dogs around. A class is also a good way to meet friends that you can later invite for play dates.
Options for dog-to-dog socialization
1. Dog Playgroups
Dog playgroups are usually organized by training facilities or dog daycare facilities. The advantage of a playgroup compared to an enclosed dog park is that these sessions are supervised, and owners are usually very conscientious about cleaning up after their dog, and making sure that their dog is behaving properly.
Dogs in these playgroups tend to be more balanced because they are more socialized compared to the average neighborhood dog.
The disadvantage is playgroups usually only occur weekly or monthly, and at a specific time; whereas a dog park is open at all times.
2. Dog Daycare
While Shibas may be aloof and independent, they generally like being with their humans. At a daycare center a Shiba gets to enjoy dog and human company all day long. This will help to socialize Shiba and increase his confidence when facing new people and dogs.
Make sure to thoroughly check out the daycare facilities and their staff before enrolling your Shiba. Ensure that the dog playgroups are not too large and are well supervised, otherwise fights may occur or your Shiba may get harassed by the other dogs.
Here is more on what to look out for in a daycare center.
3. Enclosed dog parks
Shibas really need to have off-leash time to do their Shiba running and get rid of excess energy. If you do not have a backyard, an enclosed dog park may be a good place for your Shiba to run free.
On-leash walks alone (3 hours daily), were insufficient to drain my active Shiba. Unfortunately, it may be difficult to find a good dog park with responsible dog owners. Unless you find a good dog park, your Shiba may get into fights, get injured, or pick up bad behaviors from the other dogs at the park.
4. Group Dog Walking
Group dog walks may be a good way to socialize your Shiba if he is uncomfortable being in a large group of dogs. Dog walks usually have a maximum of about 6 dogs per walk and is a less stressful social environment for a Shiba.
Walks are a lot more structured, well supervised, and conducted in an interesting environment (e.g. an outdoor park). This means that Shiba has other things to focus on, and need not obsess on dog-play the entire time. Finally it is good training for Shiba to feel comfortable about walking with a pack of other dogs.
Unfortunately, it can be difficult to find a good dog walker who can handle a Shiba without resorting to forceful aversive techniques. Here is an article from the San Francisco SPCA on choosing a good dog walker. If you cannot find a good walker, it is best to stick to the dog playgroups and daycare.
Socializing a Shiba Inu to other dogs
If your Shiba is showing aggressive behaviors, do not push him too quickly in the socialization process.
Socialization is now a popular buzzword in dog training, but do not force your Shiba into becoming a social butterfly if he is not comfortable being one.
It is important to teach your Shiba good manners when greeting people and other dogs, but do not force him to interact or play if he prefers not to.
Hello, I was thinking about getting a shiba and a dog like a husky or maybe a samoyed. Because its better to wait to get a second dog after the first, would the shiba be better to get first? Or would it be better to get the shiba second, so it could grow up being around with another dog from the beginning?
I think it really depends on the situation and environment. For me, I really wanted to get a Husky, but at the time, I did not have a backyard and we lived in a somewhat crowded area, with few nearby hiking trails. Huskies are very high energy and they like being outdoors, so we decided to get a Shiba instead.
Shiba puppies can still be hyper and they need a lot of training, but that was something that I could do. Now that my Shiba is older, he is pretty low maintenance. He has one daily walk (about 1 hour), and one or two short play sessions and he is good. Training him in the beginning was very time consuming though and a big challenge for me.
Here is my take on Shibas and Sibes.
Hello,
I currently have an 11 year old Toy Manchester Terrier who is very insecure and nervous. He generally tolerates other dogs and is usually submissive. I am considering adopting 2 neutered shibas. One is 15 and the other is 2 1/2. They currently live with 7 other dogs, mostly puppies, and a cat. I am told they are great with all the others, especially the puppies.
I am worried that once they enter my home, their shiba instincts will come out and they will turn on my little Manchester. What can I do so they can all co-exist?
My Shiba (currently 7) has the most fun playing with larger, energetic dogs. He likes to wrestle and chase, so small dogs easily get overwhelmed and *don’t* do well with him. When I got a second dog, I made sure to pick one that would fit my Shiba’s temperament and play style.
Here is more on how I picked a second dog.
Here are some things that I do to help my dogs get along.
Hi there, I dont know how far your knowledge is on other breeds but I suppose its worth a shot. Me and my boyfriend already had a 2 year old Great Dane bitch, called Kuma, very playful, affectionate, lively and well behaved, she loves other dogs and playing with other dogs. We decided to get another puppy, a companiom for her, my boyfriend has always wanted a French Bulldog, so just before New Year we purchased a male 16week old Frenchie, Carter. Now hes really friendly and playful also, hes got a great temperament, hes a lovely little thing. The problem is Kuma now, she seems to have gone from a playful puppy to a tired old dog, she has no interest in playing with him, or anyone, she just lazes about, I suppose kind of in a huff, we still give her the most attention, and make sure she doesnt feel left out, but shes just not interested in the puppy at all. Ive tried everything, being excitable myself down on the floor trying to excite them up, she just walks away tug of war toys, as soon as Carter has one end she drops hers and walks away, or just stands holding it, growling a little. Shes never hurt him, shes gave him some warnings, when he went for her food and when he went in her bed.. but I guess she tolerates him otherwise, she just watches him. She just wont play any more, and its sad cause Carter wants to play, even though hes tiny compared to her, and shes just no interested? Any tips on how we could maybe get them more active together? Thanks x
My Shiba Inu (Sephy) also didn’t warm up to my Husky puppy (Lara) in the beginning. Adding a new family member is often stressful to the existing dog because it means changes to routine, changes in people behavior, and also having to deal with a stranger in the house.
Some things that helped with Sephy –
1. Reduce stress by creating certainty
I set up a fixed routine for all of my dogs, and a consistent set of interaction rules. For example, there is absolutely no stealing of food, toys, beds, space, or anything else. My adult dogs already know this, so I mostly supervise my puppy closely and teach her the house rules. In this way, my older dogs know exactly what to expect from the new puppy, and vice versa. If there are any conflicts, I deal with it. In this way, my dogs learn to see each other as equals and allies, and I get to be the bad sheriff. 😀
2. Minimize negative encounters
New puppies can be a big handful because they are so energetic. I make sure that my existing dogs have a quiet place that they can go to rest whenever they want, away from the pestering puppy. 😉 Sometimes they just want some alone time.
I also have a very fixed routine for my new puppy which includes little naps throughout the day. In this way, I get to take some breaks too, and the routine helps to create more certainty and reduce stress for my other dogs.
During the training period, I am always there to supervise puppy Lara. I slowly teach her dog-interaction rules, and I make sure that she does not bother my adult dogs when they do not want to be bothered.
3. Create lots of positive and rewarding experiences with my existing dogs and new puppy
From Sephy’s perspective, the new puppy is not very rewarding. She causes stress and change in the household, she takes up space, she takes up people time, she makes noise, she plays with *his* toys, and consumes other resources.
Therefore, it is up to me to create positive and rewarding experiences between Sephy and Lara to help them form a good bond. At the same time, I minimize negative experiences.
For example, I do group obedience sessions. I will start training Lara with very good rewards. This will usually attract Sephy to come over as well. When he does, and is calm, I praise him and get both dogs to do simple commands. I reward them *very very well* when they work together for me. I also did grooming exercises together, and I supervise play sessions so that they are fun and rewarding for everyone.
Here is more on what I do to help my dogs get along.
Congratulations on your new puppy and big hugs to both your furry kids. 😀
Hi,
I recently just adopted a 6yr old Siberian husky. I’m having trouble with socializing her to other dogs. She goes to a doggy day care and does fine with other dogs, but when we meet other dogs it’s a whole different story. I recently introduced her to a family member’s older (14) lab and she continued to growl whenever he was near me both off and on the leash. She also had a similar reaction with another dog while on the leash. Is her aggression a result of protecting me? If so, do you have any pointers on how I can reduce her tension when we meet other dogs.
Does she act that way with the same dogs when you are not there and someone else is with her? In her daily care, is it mostly you feeding her and taking care of her, or are there other family members who also do this? How long have you had her? Did she start showing this behavior right away? Does she growl with all dogs when you are with her, or just with some dogs? Do those dogs have certain things in common – e.g. size, over-excited?
My Shiba Inu also used to get dog-reactive whenever we saw other dogs. In our case, I found that a big part of it was because of my energy. I used to get stressed out and anxious whenever we saw other dogs, Sephy picked up on my energy, and got stressed and anxious himself. This made him even more reactive.
Two things that helped most with my Shiba –
1. Controlling my own energy. If I stay calm and in-control, Sephy is also a lot more calm.
2. Dog-to-dog desensitization exercises.
Each situation is different though, and dog behavior is very dependent on temperament, past experience, and surrounding context. This is why in cases of dog aggression, it is often helpful to get a professional trainer who can come over, observe our dog, and read his body language during a meeting. I visited with several trainers during my difficult period with Sephy.
http://www.apdt.com/pet-owners/choosing-a-trainer/
I love your website and I think it is quite informative. I have a 4 year old Shiba Inu girl named Kaia and a 3 year old Norwegian Elkhound named Atreju. Recently, I came home to discover urine in my bed and on a sofa cushion (the one I sit on). I had Kaia checked for infections and everything came back fine. Today, I was giving my dogs a treat and Kaia began to do her banshee scream (which is common around treat time) to keep Atreju away and he was no where near her at the time. Later I found a fresh urine spot where she was when the banshee scream began. My vet has informed me that Kaia doesn’t like Atreju. I am not sure what to do or how to get her to like him or understand that he is a part of the family. Any suggestions? Atreju likes Kaia but Kaia doesn’t seem to like Atreju……… Help? I don’t want to get rid of a dog because of behavioral issues due to one dog not liking the other.
Have you had both dogs since puppyhood? How long have they been together? How were their interactions in the past? What is their meal routine like? Do they play together? What is their normal routine like? Did something change recently that may have triggered changes in behavior?
More on what I do to help my dogs get along.
Hi,
I’ve been reading your site before and after we got our shiba, Hiccup. She’s about a year and a half. Our biggest problems with her are 1) dog-dog aggression at the dog park and 2) on leash aggression. She pulls her leash also but like you mentioned in your article it’s something we need to work on and most likely due to her just being very curious and excited.
1) She’s a hit or miss when it comes to playing with other dogs at the dog park, big or small dogs. Just today, she was doing great with all the other dogs until one lady brought her schnauzer into the park. Hiccup went to greet it and then lunged and bared her teeth. I’m not sure if the lady overreacted or not but she threatened to leave the park and made it very uncomfortable for me and Hiccup to be there ie “don’t bring your dog unless she’s trained. She’s nasty!” I’m not sure what to do to get her to stop being aggressive randomly. I don’t know what to look for either since it happens so quickly. Any advice about this would be great.
2) On leash aggression – I reread your article about it and I’ve gotten a few ideas to try from it. Her issue on leash is the same as off leash. Off leash, she’s more likely to interact nicely with the other dogs but on leash she’s more prone to being aggressive, snarling and twisting out of her leash. I feel like they’re related but I don’t know what I should be doing.
Any advice would be appreciated. I’m getting to a point where I don’t want to take her out to a dog park anymore for fear of making someone else uncomfortable about how aggressive Hiccup is but I know this would be counter productive and make her more aggressive when she does finally encounter a dog. What should I do?
Thanks!
Yeah, I am also not a big fan of enclosed dog parks. Here are some of our dog park experiences with Sephy.
http://shibashake.com/dog/enclosed-dog-parks-good-or-bad
Sephy does much better in small, structured, and highly supervised play-groups. Sephy does best with larger dogs that are friendly and playful, so those are the ones I am on the look-out for and invite to be his play-buddies. I am there to supervise the whole time. I throw in play breaks to manage excitement levels, make sure the dogs follow play rules, etc. Small or one-on-one play sessions worked out much better for Sephy.
In terms of dog-to-dog reactivity during walks, I did desensitization exercises with Sephy. That helped to raise his reactivity threshold and helped him be more relaxed around other dogs.
http://shibashake.com/dog/dog-to-dog-aggression#desensitize
Each dog is different though, so I always make sure to observe Sephy closely, only use techniques that are appropriate for his temperament, and tweak techniques according to his needs. With Sephy we also got help from several professional trainers. The trainer would visit with Sephy, observe him in a variety of situations, and evaluate his behavior. Then the trainer would have a discussion with us about what type of retraining is most suited for Sephy.
http://www.apdt.com/pet-owners/choosing-a-trainer/
I have a five year old shiba named rusty. He is fine around other dogs until they try to sniff his butt. What should I do to make sure this doesnt make him angry
http://shibashake.com/dog/the-butt-sniff
Hi
i love your website.I have an akita inu and a shiba inu. Akita’s name is Hachi and shiba’s name is Maximus. They both love to play tug of war.I’m just a kid but i know ALOT about dogs.Sometimes Maximus tries to steal Hachi’s food and Hachi attacks him.What should i do?I dont want them to behave badly.One day when we were walking in my street,Hachi and Maximus suddenly pounced on my friend’s dog.He was just standing there doing nothing.Can you tell me why my dogs are developing bad behaviour?
Thanks,Kelly
Hello Kelly,
It sounds like the best thing to do is to get help from a professional trainer. As you know, dog training is greatly dependent on the dog’s temperament, his surrounding context, routine, health, etc. A good trainer can observe the dogs, read their body language, evaluate their routine, and more, to properly identify the root cause of a behavior.
In an online context, all of these important details are missing.
On this site, I talk about many of the experiences I have had with my dogs. However, each dog is different, the environment is different, and the routine is different. Some things may translate, but they will have to be tweaked to fit a particular case. In cases of aggression, it is best to get help from a trainer because if we do not do the right thing, our dog may redirect his aggression onto us.
With my dogs, I have a strict no-stealing policy. When I get a new puppy, I slowly and carefully teach her what the rules are for interacting with my other dogs. Clear dog-to-dog interaction rules are important, so that the new puppy knows exactly what to expect from my other dogs and vice versa. Here is a bit more on how I keep the peace with my dogs.
Hi there
I’ve written to you before and have always found your comments useful and insightful, hopefully you can shed a bit of light on my latest issue. My shiba Yuki and I are part of a dog club where we attend obedience classes on a weekly basis. As you know shibas are interesting to train but she’s come a long way, there are dogs she likes and others she dislikes. On leash she’ll often snarl at dogs who she dislikes and who dislike her, but sometimes we have an off leash session where the dogs are allowed to mill around and mingle. During these sessions she’s great, she’ll play with her dog buddies and ignore the dogs she doesn’t particularly like. Today we did some long distance recalls during which she usually runs past me on a little detour but always returns to me in the end. This time though her detour took her to a German Shepherd that she adores, this was no problem except for the fact that a little toy poodle was standing near him. Yuki and the poodle looked at each other for a bit and then Yuki lunged, it sounded bad, spittle was flying and I eventually pulled her off. Thank goodness the poodle was fine, and if Dr Ian Dunbar’s fight to bite ratio is to be believed she’s still never hurt another dog. What concerns me is that she started a fight which she never does offleash, her reaction to this dog was almost like it was prey. The poodle is very bouncy with curls everywhere and a little bell around his neck, is she seeing her as a prey animal and not just another dog she dislikes? Having said that the fight was a scuffle where no damage at all was done.Please let me know what you think.
Hello Natasha,
Based on what you describe, my guess is that there was some guarding involved – in particular around the GSD. She may view the GSD as a resource, and does not want other dogs stealing it. “Hands-off, he’s mine!” 😀
My Sibes sometimes do that with people. They will get between another dog and a person that they like. When they do that, I no-mark the behavior and ask them for an alternate command, e.g. Down. If they follow that, then I give both dogs affection. If not, then I leave and ignore them.
This is just a guess though. Since I didn’t view the incident and do not know any of the dogs involved, it may not be very accurate.
What did the class trainer say?
Hi again
In reply to your question a bunch of us thought that she might have been guaring the GSD, he’s very popular with the girls LOL! My trainer did think it could’ve been the whole vibe surrounding the poodle, she’s very bouncy, her bell jingles, and her curls fly about! We’re not suggesting it was her fault of course, but I’ve noticed before that she did seem to irritate Yuki and some of the other dogs got agitated by her presence. It’s a shame as she’s rather sweet and means no harm, but of course as we know shibas have their own set of rules and regulations. Before managing to separate them I had my eyes glued to Yuki’s mouth in order to see the harm she was causing, and I must say she didn’t bite even once. It looked quite scary but according to some of the sites I’ve visited if a dog wants to cause harm, it will, so it’s hopefully a good sign that she did’nt.
LOL! The strong and silent type always gets all the gals. It is good to be a GSD! 😀
Hi there,
I’m a dog trainer in the UK and have recently been contacted by a couple with a 5 month old Shiba Inu. I had heard of the breed before but didn’t know much about them. Your website has been a great help to me! Anyway, I informed the owners that I had not worked with the breed before but would be willing to meet them and their pup and take it from there.
They have told me that their Shiba will not allow anyone but them anywhere near him (barks aggressively when anyone approaches) and is petrified of other dogs (runs a mile if he sees one). They have just informed me now that last week their Shiba actually bit the female owner in panic when approached by another dog last week.
Now obviously, I have worked with similar cases in the past (i work with rescue dogs a lot) but never a Shiba and from your site I get the impression they are rather different to many other breeds!)
I’ve worked with shepherds and collies with similar issues before. I tend to use a combination of desensitisation, counter conditioning and positive reenforcement. Obviously i haven’t met the pup yet (meeting on Saturday) so I’ll know a lot more after that but i was wondering if you had any tips or warnings of how to approach the situation that may differ from with other breeds.
The couple want to bring their pup into the puppy classes I run but due to their description of how fearful he is of other dogs, I think this may be too much for him right now (the puppy classes i run have just four puppies in each, but the space is not massive so he would be in relatively close quarters to the other puppies).
Any help or advice would be appreciated!
Thanks, Clare.
Hmmm, very interesting question.
1. The first thing that comes to mind is the famous Shiba stubbornness. Sephy is extremely stubborn. If I try to force him to do something, he will dig in and really not want to do it. The key with Sephy is to let him arrive at the decision on his own, but give a few gentle nudges along the way.
2. What a Shiba is motivated by, may be very different from many other dogs. Sephy is not very food focused and not very people focused. Since they are a more aloof breed, they are likely not going to work for attention and usually not just for food either. Instead, Sephy likes playing chase games, wrestling with other dogs, and new things. He will do very good work for something that he really wants.
You may also enjoy this article-
Why Are Shiba Inus One of the Most Difficult Breeds to Train
There are some good insights in the comments section from other Shiba owners.
Finally, I also do want to mention that Sephy is very sensitive to the emotions of the people around him, much more so than my other dogs. He used to behave very poorly because I was very fearful and stressed about what he *might* do. Once I became more calm, Sephy’s behavior improved significantly. He does best in a calm environment where he has a fixed routine and knows what to expect from the people around him, and what is expected of him.
Would love to hear your point of view and impressions after you meet the Shiba on Sat.