Puppy potty training is the bane of many new dog parents. That is why there are so many tutorials on how to housetrain a dog, with promises of how it can be simple and effortless.
The fact though, is that potty training requires time, patience, and consistency. How simple or difficult it is, will depend on our dog’s temperament and our own temperament.
Some dog breeds such as the Shiba Inu, are naturally clean and are relatively easy to housebreak. My Shiba was housebroken when we first got him at 10 weeks old.
Shiba Sephy does not even like to eliminate in our backyard. Instead, he prefers to wait until we go for a walk. In contrast, my second dog (a Siberian Husky), was more difficult to housetrain because she did not mind frolicking close to her own waste products.
It took a few weeks to housetrain her.
Puppy potty training also depends a lot on us. If we are naturally calm, consistent, and patient, housebreaking will seem easier and require less work.
Whatever the case, always remember that we can successfully housetrain a physically healthy dog, at whatever age (after the weaning off process), no matter the history.
And that is a potty training fact!
1. Set Up a Schedule
Puppy potty training begins, by setting up a schedule. Initially, we want to bring our dog out often, and reduce the chances of her making mistakes inside the house.
I observe my puppy closely, and try to identify patterns in her potty behavior. For example, she usually has to go when she wakes up, and after a bit of vigorous play. Therefore, I took her out after nap-time and after every 10-15 minutes of play. Different dogs may have different patterns depending on size, temperament, routine, and more.
I stop giving her water about 2-3 hours before sleep time, and take her out right before I crate her for the night. If I need to reward her during that time, I only use moist dog treats such as boiled chicken, so that she does not get thirsty from them.
Fact – Dogs learn through a process called conditioning. They repeat behaviors that get them good results and stop behaviors that get them bad results.
The more we reward a puppy for eliminating outside, the more she will repeat that behavior. When my puppy does her business in the backyard, I mark that behavior (Yes!). Once she finishes, I treat her with something special that she only gets for potty success, and give her some good affection. Then, I reward her more with play-time and her favorite activities.
Similarly, the more a puppy practices eliminating inside, on her own, the more she will go in the house. After all, it is convenient and nobody is teaching her that it is inappropriate behavior.
Therefore, we want to not only maximize the number of successes, but also minimize the number of mistakes. In this way, our puppy will learn that doing her business outside is extremely rewarding and fun. On the other hand, when she does it inside, she consistently gets interrupted and taken outside.
Myth – My dog cannot be housetrained because she comes from a stubborn breed, she is too stupid, she is too dominant, she doesn’t listen to me, she is too old, etc.
Any physically healthy dog can be housetrained. The key to potty training is patience and consistency. Always be around to supervise our puppy when she is inside. If I do not have the time to supervise, then I crate my puppy or put her in a long-term enclosure with puppy pads.
Myth: Screaming and hitting the dog will show her that I am boss and make her stop pottying inside the house.
Screaming and hitting a dog does not work well, and usually makes things worse. How well do you learn when somebody is screaming at you, or hitting you? It is the same way for a dog, especially a puppy.
The fastest way to housebreak our puppy, is to remain calm, and consistently let her know that going inside is inappropriate (Ack, ack), and going outside is appropriate (Yes).
2. Prevent Potty Mistakes
There are three ways to prevent mistakes inside the house:
a) Be there to supervise.
When our puppy shows signs that she has to go potty, take her outside right away. If I do not catch my puppy in time and she starts to do her business, then I interrupt her with a no-mark (Ack, ack) and take her outside.
Myth – I can potty train my puppy by rubbing her nose in it after the fact. She always looks sheepish and puts her head down when I shout at her. She knows she has done something wrong.
Dogs will only learn when we catch them in the act.
If we are not around and our dog makes a mistake, then we have missed a learning opportunity. All we can do is clean up the mess and move on. It is true that a dog may look sheepish when we shout at her after the fact. This is because she knows that we are upset, so she uses submissive gestures (e.g. putting her head down) to try and appease us.
The dog does not know what particular event has caused our anger, but just that we are angry. Shouting and rubbing a dog’s nose in her own waste does not teach her anything. All it does is confuse our dog, as well as create stress and fear. This can make things worse by causing submissive urination.
b) Crate train our dog.
Dogs do not generally like to soil where they sleep. Keeping our puppy in a crate can discourage her from pottying because she does not want to soil her sleeping area.
When I got my first dog, I was a bit concerned about crating him. Here is what the Humane Society of the United States and the American Dog Trainer’s Network have to say about crate training
Myth – A crate will magically keep my dog from pottying for any period of time.
The crate is not some magical cure. A crate discourages a dog from eliminating, but if a dog absolutely has to go, she has to go.
Keeping a puppy for too long in a crate, will force her to potty in the crate, possibly traumatize her, and greatly set back our potty training program.
The maximum crate time is dependent on the age of our puppy.
| Age | Maximum time in crate |
|---|---|
| 8–10 weeks | 30–60 minutes |
| 11–14 weeks | 1–3 hours |
| 15–16 weeks | 3–4 hours |
| 17+ weeks | 4–5 hours |
Maximum crate time from ASPCA Weekend Crate Training.
Note – this is just a general guideline for the maximum crate time. I usually take my puppy outside more frequently than that. I take her out as soon as she wakes up, and right after any heavy activity.
At night, I crate my dogs in the bedroom. Keeping our dogs with us in the bedroom will help with the bonding process, and show them that they are part of the pack.
When puppies are really young, they may not be able to hold their bladder throughout the night. It may be necessary to make an extra trip outside at night, or really early in the morning. Once they get a bit older though, this will no longer be necessary.
Some puppies, e.g. pet store puppies, may already be conditioned to eliminate in their crate, because they are kept in there for overly long periods of time. In such cases, a crate will no longer be a deterrent to potty behavior.
c) Put our dog in a long-term enclosure.
If I will be away for a long period of time, I put my puppy in a long-term enclosure. This can be a secure puppy pen, or a secure and safe room (e.g. kitchen).
Make sure there is nothing dangerous in the enclosure that our puppy can destroy and swallow. Put bedding, a water bowl, some puppy pads, safe chew toys, and safe food toys, in the enclosure. Put the pads in a corner as far away from the bedding as possible.
Instead of puppy pads, we may also use an indoor grass system.
However, some dogs may not like standing on or eliminating on the indoor grass surface. Just using regular sod or grass did not work well for me because of drainage issues. The sod gets smelly very quickly because there isn’t anywhere for the pee to go.
When I tried using sod, I had to change it every other day, or my puppy refused to go onto it. This ended up being a lot more work than just using puppy pads.
Myth – We cannot train a dog to potty outside as well as on puppy pads. She will get confused and not know what to do.
Yes, it is true that if we can be around most of the time to supervise, it is better not to let a puppy do her business in the house at all.
However, if we will be away for long periods of time, if our dog has separation anxiety issues (which may cause her to need to eliminate when we leave), or if there are other medical issues (surgery) that make frequent trips outside unfeasible, then it is perfectly fine to train a dog to both potty on pads, as well as outside.
Reward a puppy for going on his pads, and reward a puppy a lot more for going outside.
3. Clean Away Mistakes Properly
During the housetraining process, there will be some mistakes. When that happens, I calmly no-mark my puppy (Ack, ack) and take her outside. Once we are outside, I praise and reward her if she continues with her business.
Then, I leave my puppy in our fully enclosed and puppy-safe backyard, come in, and clean up the mess. Cleaning up messes in front of a puppy may sometimes cause her to mimic our behavior, and engage in eating her own poop. In her mind, she is only helping to clean out the den.
Use a cleaner that is made especially for pets. A popular pet odor cleaner is Nature’s Miracle.
Do not use ammonia based cleaners as the ammonia odor, which resembles urine, may attract our dog to urinate in the area.
4. Make Sure the Mistakes Are Potty Mistakes
Not all indoor urination is the result of housetraining mistakes. Other reasons for indoor urination include:
- Submissive or excitement urination.
- Medical issues, e.g. urinary tract infection.
- Marking objects or territory.
- Stress or anxiety, which results from being alone or other psychological issues.
Hi, I think your website is amazing and I follow this as a guide to raising a puppy more than any other site. I actually really want to get a Shiba Inu or Husky but with alot of research, I figured as a first time dog owner I should not. Anyway, I got a Japanese spitz about one week ago and I have some issues with potty training. On the first 2 days we did not have a crate for him as we were reluctant of ‘caging him’ however later found his business all over the house. I am the main carer of the dog, (basically the only one) and so I have to do the cleaning up, and training etc. We got him a crate and he has been better with it now, he still occasionally whimpers when we close the door and only rarely goes in on his free will. I also did not sleep with him (I sleep upstairs) while he slept in the extension of the house near the main living area. The first day we got him the crate we did not use a divider and he pooped on the other side of it. He also woke up extremely early because my mother wakes up very early at 5am hence when she walks around the house, he wakes up. So learning from my mistake I used a cardboard sheet as one. The second night, he was okay and held it in, and I took him outside and he did his business there, but not in the desired place. The third night however, was horrible, he pooped in his crate and we had to clean the entire thing out. The next few days, he pooped in the house occasionally, probably 85% of the time. Hence I knew there was something wrong with my training – my supervision. From then on till now (about 2-3 days) I’ve kept him under very close supervision (following your advice), and now are trying to train him to poop outside (on command – just by saying ‘pee’ everytime he is almost finished his business) in a specific area.
However, I have tried various techniques to take him outside to the specific place – he would not poop near me. I have tried using a leash but he bites that and gets easily distracted, and would just play with the grass. When I let him off he will run to an area which he has not pooed in before and do his business. A few times I have stopped him mid-poo/pee run to him and carried him to the desired area however he does not do it and prefers playing with the grass and 10-15minutes later finishing it off in a different place. I am attempting to do a schedule, I feed him once in the morning 1-2hrs after waking up (7-8am) , 1-2pm, 5-6pm. However he does not go until about 1-2 hours later. I initially attempted to let him poop on newspaper outside in a specific place however he would never do it, even when he showed signs of doing it before. Sometimes I would sit there with a leash on him and stop him walking away and wait for literally 4hours (his last business for the night but he would not do it – just sleep, and I think it is because I am pressuring him. One day (I regret doing this) I put an enclosed area with an opening for him to go in and out of and when I saw signs he would go, I put him inside and closed the gate which caused him to start barking and go berserk so I let him out and took off the gates. Now I would put him in his crate when I cannot supervise him and take him outside whenever he has signs of having to go.
Just today when he went outside and I actually caught him, I praised him alot and gave him treats etc. played with him and let him inside. My approach now is to see where he goes, and what I did was show him the poop on a paper towel and follow me as I took it and placed it on his desired spot. Then I would leave it there until he next does his poop and repeat this step, continually replacing the previous poop with his most recent one.
I’m sorry for this extremely long post (I don’t mind you probably skimmed over most of it) but I really need your help! I only just read the potty training part on your site and I know I have done the wrong things before (I was trying to follow methods from other sites and made my own mistakes as well but they did not seem to work for me) and I was wondering if I’m going on the right track and hope you can provide me some advice.
Thanks so much,
Alice
Hello Alice,
Here are some things that seem to work well with my dogs-
1. Crate
I try to make crate-time be very positive and rewarding for my dogs. Crates can be very useful for when my dogs are travelling, sleeping at night, training, or for management when they are sick and more. Therefore I want them to associate their crate with good things, and feel comfortable, relaxed, and calm while in their crate.
Here is a bit more on how I crate train my dog.
2. Potty Training
My dogs *don’t* really like pooping in places that have *their own* old poop. I try to clean up after them as soon as they go, which will also discourage poop eating behaviors. During walks, they may poop or pee over stuff from other dogs or other animals, but they do not like going over their own stuff.
I also try to give my dogs as much freedom as I can, and I do not require them to go in a fixed spot. They can go wherever they want in my backyard. What I do is observe where they usually *like* to go. When I take them out to potty, I bring them to their usual spot and give them the “Go Potty” command. I do this, so that it is easier for them to understand what I am trying to say, but if they choose to go somewhere else, that is perfectly fine. I always praise and reward them very well for doing their business outside.
I try to keep things simple and I try to stay very calm while interacting with my puppy. This helps him to stay calm and learn things quickly. If I am stressed or make a big deal out of the situation, my dog will pick up on my energy and get stressed himself.
Congratulations on your new puppy and big hugs to him! 😀
I am posting on behalf of my Aunt who recently got a husky/shepherd cross puppy. Rio is now five months old and is not house broken yet, My Aunt got her when she was about 3- 3 1/2 months. My Aunt has been training dogs for over 10 years now and is almost at her wits end as to what to do. I trust that she knows what she is doing, when it comes to consistency and positive reinforcement so far nothing has worked. She thinks that although she is not submissive in many areas like around other dogs or their cats. She has a very playful nature. As soon as you walk up to her to pet her or go to put her on a leash she pees. She is a very sweet dog and has every aspect that my Aunt loves, so I am hoping that she will perservere, if not she is talking about possibly rehoming her. Does anyone have any advice? I would appreciate an answer as soon as possible,
As I understand it, excitement urination is not a potty training issue. When a dog (especially a young dog) is over-excited or over-anxious, she may temporarily lose control of her bladder, i.e. it is an involuntary behavior.
Here are some articles that give more information on excitement urination-
http://behavior.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/local-assets/pdfs/Submissive_and_Excitement_Urination_in_Dogs.pdf
http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/excitement_urination.html
Hi there~ I have just welcomed 10 week old Siberian Husky Bleu into my home and would like to potty train her as soon as I can. The thing is, she has only just had her jabs and cannot go outside until Sunday which is another 4 days so I cannot teach her to go outside straight off. Will 4 days on puppy pads effect the training of going outside at all?
Also, the breeder in which I got Bleu from used “Good Girl” when she did something right and “No” when she did something wrong. I also have a 2 year old which I use the same commands with o.O Will this effect her training is she hears me telling my son “No” when I tell him off? Should I teach Bleu new Yes and No commands just in case?
Ah, and one last things. The last two nights she has been howling (or trying to) all night when we place her in the kitchen to sleep. We leave the door open and use a stair-gate to block the entrance. What can I do to help her feel more comfortable in my home and not want to howl and cry all night? (I stayed awake all night with her the first night she was separated from her brother and sister.)
Thank you x
Congratulations on your new Husky puppy!
In terms of going outside, I would make sure to check with your vet. As I understand it, puppies should *not* be exposed to unknown dogs and feces from other animals until after they are fully vaccinated.
I did dog socialization with my puppy through puppy class, and by inviting friends over. The puppy class that I went to checked for vaccination records for all the attending puppies.
With potty training, I was able to train my Husky Shania on both puppy pads and then later to go outside. Shania had to go through surgery when she was young, so there were periods where going outside was not an option. Therefore, I trained her to go on puppy pads first. When the surgeries were over, I retrained her to go outside. It took a bit more time and supervision, but was doable.
For the yes-mark and no-mark, I prefer to use more unique words or sounds with my dogs that I do not use much with others. This lessens the chances for confusion.
In the beginning, I sleep with my puppy in the bedroom. My puppy has just left her mom and siblings, so it is natural that she should feel a bit stressed and be in need of affection and company. The first few nights I sleep with her on the floor in a sleeping bag. I tether puppy to me so that I can tell when she needs to go potty and can take her out. I sleep with her on the floor because I do not want her jumping off any raised surfaces.
During this time, I slowly crate train my puppy.
http://shibashake.com/dog/how-to-calm-a-fearful-reactive-dog#crate
After my puppy is comfortable being in her crate and after I have gained some of her trust, I very slowly train her to get used to alone time. I first start with very short periods of alone time and then slowly build up from there.
Big hugs to your puppy and Happy Holidays! 😀
I seriously need your help ShibaShake! My 4 year old shiba inu, Kenji, is still using my house as a potty area and my family and I are at our wits end. We are by no means inexperienced when it comes to dogs and proper dog training but no matter what I do or how hard I try he still manages to get the better of me! And the worst part is he treats it as if its a game to him! I know that with dogs accidents are going to happen but this has got to stop, Now! Please I help me!
Hmmm, what methods have you tried? What is his reaction? How long have you had him? What is his routine like? What other house rules does he have to follow? How does he do with those?
In terms of potty training my Huskies, supervision was key. During the potty training period I watch them all the time so that I can interrupt them and take them outside. If I am busy for even 1 minute, I put my Husky puppy in her enclosure with puppy pads. In this way, I minimize mistakes in the house and have more opportunities to reinforce the “potty outside” behavior.
As for my Shiba, he also likes chasing games. I make sure never to inadvertently reward any bad behaviors by starting a chasing game. For example, Sephy used to grab the t.v. controller and run around with it. In the beginning, I chased him and shouted for him to stop, which only made the “game” more fun for him. I was inadvertently rewarding him for stealing the t.v. controller because he got a fun game of chase out of it.
Instead of chasing him around, I put a drag lead on him (during training, only with a harness or flat collar, and only under close supervision). In this way, when he steals the controller, I can easily catch him and get him to settle down. He stopped stealing the controller after it became very unrewarding to do so.
Hello there,
I’m a big time follower/reader of your blog, and I’ve been using it to help guide my training for the last few months now. I have a Shiba pup about 3 months old (will be 4 in December), and she’s been with me for about a week and a half now. She’s had a few accidents around the house (I work 8-5, but a neighbor comes and let’s her out for about 30 or so minutes) both when I was and wasn’t there to watch her. She spends the day in an ex-pen with pee-pads, and while she seems to use them while I’m at work, she also shreds them to pieces by the time I get home (this just started happening recently). I leave her with tons of kongs and food-dispensing toys, and a special frozen kong with peanut butter and things she only gets when I leave for work and when I get home. How should I discourage her from pee-pad chewing? Also, she tends to not want to pee/poop in front of me. I take her outside to her pee place, but she’ll just sniff everything, then sit down and whine. After 10 min. or so, I bring her back inside (into her ex-pen), and she’ll pee/poop right after I walk away. She’s even peed/pooped in her crate (but I think I need to divide her crate to make it smaller so she doesn’t poop on one end and sleep on the other; that’s my fault). How do I get her to pee/poop in front of me? I can’t praise her for doing the right thing if she won’t do it while I’m there. :/ Thank you!
Congratulations on you new puppy! Koebi is adorable!
In terms of pee-pad chewing, some dogs enjoy playing with and tearing up paper. My Shiba and Huskies all enjoy this game, especially when they were young. 😀
To stop them from tearing up pee-pads, I have to be around during their pee-pad phase to supervise them. As soon as my dog tries to chew on the pad, I no-mark and redirect him to doing something else. If he keeps at it, then I remove him from the pen and close the door. I have to consistently do this many times so that he learns that if he chews on the pads, he does not get to be in his play-pen with all of his toys.
Another possibility is to use something other than pads – that is less of a chewing temptation. I tried using sod at one time, but because of drainage issues, I had to change it almost every day. If I did not change it, my puppy would not go on it. Ultimately, it was just not a very viable option. Some people use the artificial grass systems but I haven’t tried those before. The weakness of artificial grass systems is that some dogs may not like stepping on it, and some dogs may not like using it.
For pottying outside, I think it is a matter of routine. I find that my dogs will usually go with what they are familiar with or used to. Dogs that are used to going on pads, will usually continue to go on pads because that is what they normally do. When I was potty training my dogs, I only used pads when I absolutely needed to, for example when I needed to step away for a bit and could not supervise. When I am around, I supervise my puppy closely so that I can take him out as soon as I see that he needs to go.
I also set up a very fixed routine so that I can plan to take him out at times when he most likely needs to go, e.g. after heavy activity and when he wakes up after a nap.
Supervision is key when it comes to potty training. I need to be there and ready when my puppy needs to go, so that I can take him out and reinforce the behavior. The more times I positively reinforce the behavior, the more he learns to potty outside. The more time I spend supervising my puppy, the more chances I will get to reinforce the behavior.
Big hugs to Koebi. I love her pictures.
I desperately need help. We came home one night to a dog on our front steps. We found out more about him, that he was utd on shots and that his previous owners may have abused/neglected him. We also found out that he is deaf. we have since then decided to keep him and are going through the business of “potty training” It is hard to verbally direct him to do it outside so I am constantly watching him and I have noticed that he shows no signs of having to pee, he just simply squats. this is still somewhat better than before, we had to get him fixed and he has then stopped marking on everything, but now we cannot get him to stop peeing every 5-10 minutes (at least a cup full each time). He is very sweet and lovable and I have rewarded him tremendously when he uses the bathroom outside with treats and affection, but still nothing seems to work because as soon as we come in the house he goes more. He is only about 25lbs and a mut, but I can’t imagine how he still has some left in his bladder each time. We need help so very much seeing as how we already have 3 other dogs and they are showing signs of “accidents” because our new adoption is making it seem ok for the rest of them. Thank you.
Peeing every 5-10 minutes sounds really unusual to me. I would consult with a vet about this and see what they say.
An abused dog may also do submissive urination.
Your site is amazing and is definitely helping me to maintain my sanity. Our son brought home a husky puppy 2 weeks ago. She is around 9 weeks old according to vet. We have 2
10 year old male cocker spaniels who aren’t pleased but we are trying to integrate puppy.
Puppy (Sasha) is not yet potty trained but does not soil her crate. Cockers were not crate trained so I am following all directions on your site. She comes to her name, sits, follows commands for down. Can consistent outdoor pottying be far behind? What a difference between cockers and huskies. I follow NILIF for her but it is too late for the cockers. When we praise and give a treat for pottying the older dogs line up for theirs. It is amusing. Any words of advice for a mom who just sort of got left in it? My husband helps too, but I am home the most. Thank you so much for all you do.
Lucky Sasha! Sounds like things are going really well with her, so I am not sure what else I can add. 😀
The one thing that comes to mind is puppy socialization. I did not do enough of that with my Husky Lara, and I wish we had done more when she was young. My two other dogs (Sephy and Shania) had a lot of socialization when they were young, and they are a lot more comfortable and relaxed with people, other dogs, and new things. Lara gets a lot more reactive, vocal, and over-excited compared to them.
Here is more on puppy socialization –
1. ASPCA.
2. Paw Rescue.
Big hugs to Sasha!
Hiya,
I have just re-homed a female jackawawa who is 9 month old and has had two previous homes. I don’t know much about her first home only they couldn’t cope with her behaviour (it’s a puppy!) so had her till she was 16 weeks then sold her on. I got her from a friend last week, who said she would give her to me instead sending her to the shelter. She said she was prone to accidents, chewed her house up, and was generally hyperactive. I asked how much exercise she was given and the answer was sometimes 200 yards to the corner shop. I live on a farm right by the beach so she has been going for 5 mile walks twice a day. I now have no chewing and she doesn’t tend to wee in the house. However, she will not deficate while you are there, and will hide and do it if you are in the room. As soon as she notices you have seen she will become submissive and wee. Even outside she will not do it in front of you unless she can find somewhere to hide. This makes it really difficult to praise her. She has also been crated for long periods of time and will deficate in the crate and lie in it. At the minute I’m confining her to one room with my other jack Russell (using baby gates round the rest of the cottage) and putting down newspaper when I go out. I have only caught her once for the first time today made ‘shoo’ noises and carried her outside where she finished off. I gave her loads of praise and she still did submissive wee. She is very nervous too. She has dedicated twice in the house since ‘the miracle’ this morning and I am ensuring I feed her at certain times etc. She will run to the door to let you know she wants a wee and I think she’s had the whole rub nose in poo traumatisation. Any ideas?
For very fearful and submissive dogs, I always try to keep my voice soft and calm. Even excited praise can sound scary to them, which can then cause submissive urination.
Lara was pretty submissive when I first got her, so I focused on building her confidence and gaining her trust. Some things that helped with Lara-
1. I did very simple commands and training with her. I set her up for success, start small and go in little steps, as well as keep sessions positive and rewarding. Training is a good way to build confidence and gain trust.
2. I played her favorite games with her. I always set up rules for our games, but I also make sure that it is rewarding and a whole lot of fun.
3. I try my very hardest to be calm and consistent. I use a soft and calm voice. Sometimes, Lara may go a certain distance away from me or go behind a bush to potty. That is ok. I give her space to do her business. When she is done, I calmly praise her, call her over, treat her very well, and play a favorite game with her. When we are done, I distract her with an interactive food toy, while I go clean up her poop.
4. I set up a fixed routine and a consistent set of rules. In this way, Lara knows exactly what she can expect from me, and what I expect from her in return. Certainty can really help reduce stress and build confidence.
5. Eye-contact, physical contact, loud voices, or standing over a submissive dog can be somewhat threatening to him. In general, I like having Lara approach me on her own, which she is very happy to do because I reward her well for it with games, food, and affection.
This article from the ASPCA has more dos and don’t for submissive urination-
http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/dog-behavior/submissive-urination
I am glad that Puppy has finally found a good home. Big hugs to her!
Today i bought a german shepherd pup almost 1 month old..i want to ask that she is barking too much continuously and she is peeing again and again after 30 minutes almost..is it normal and what should i do. as she is 1 month old so what should i feed her ?? just milk or what ?
Where did you buy her from? 1 month is really *very* young for a puppy to be separated from her mother and siblings.
Here is an ASPCA article on newborn puppy care.
Here is a bit more on how to get a puppy.
I am *not* a breeder so I do not have experience with newborn puppies that are below 8 weeks old.
Thank you so very much for the detailed answer.I hope you will not mint at all if i further ask some questions 🙂 I wanted to ask that i have a specific place in my flat where the dog can pee/poop so can i train him to do his business on the specific place in flat and when i will be not around for some time will he go himself at that specific spot to do his business ?? Last but not the least question is that i am going to buy a pit bull pup but i don’t know how to recognize that its pure or not so if i attach 2-3 pictures of dog can you help me by telling that its pure r not ?? Waiting for your reply
Than kyou so Much
Regards
Usman