To a puppy, everything is new, interesting, and exciting. This means that our puppy will try to bite, play with, and chew just about anything that he sees.
In addition, puppies have the infinite energy of youth. Like the Energizer Bunny, they can keep going, and going, and going. After a nap, their engines rev-up from SLEEP to GO, faster than you can catch your breath and shout “Stop!”.
Sound and movement are especially irresistible to a puppy.
The more we shout and move our hands, arms, or feet around, the more likely our puppy will get excited, bite, jump, and act even more crazy.
A very important part of training my puppy involves managing his excitement level, and teaching him self control. By doing this, I set my puppy up for success, and reduce out of control biting and jumping, before it occurs.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
1. Nothing in Life is Free (NILIF)
NILIF stands for Nothing in Life is Free. It is a great way to train a puppy, build a strong bond with him, and remain sane in the presence of our bouncing ball of fur.
NILIF is simple – we just ask our puppy to do something for us first, before we give him anything in return. This includes food, toys, freedom, and yes, even our affection.
First, I train my puppy to do some very simple commands. Here are three simple commands –
Look simply asks a puppy to give us eye contact for a short amount of time.
- I train this command by showing my puppy that I have a piece of food.
- I say “Look”, and bring the food up to the level of my eyes.
- Puppy will naturally follow the movement of my food-enhanced hand, and look-up at me.
- As soon as he looks, I mark the behavior (Good!) and reward him with some food from my other hand.
- As my puppy improves, I get him to look at me for longer, before rewarding the behavior.
Touch asks a puppy to gently touch our hand with his nose.
- Again, I let my puppy see that I have some food in my hand.
- Then, I close my hand, move it a short distance away from my puppy, and say “Touch”.
- Puppy will naturally follow the food. At first, he may try to mouth or lick at my hand. I ignore these behaviors and wait until he touches my hand with his nose.
- As soon as that happens, I mark the behavior (Good!) and reward him with some food from my other hand.
Sit is a useful evergreen command. Even after our dog has matured into an adult, we will still find this command to be very handy.
- To train a Sit, I show my puppy that I have some food in my hand.
- I close my hand and move it over and above my puppy’s head. He will naturally want to follow my hand, which will cause him to turn his head up and move his rump down into a sitting position.
- Some dogs may move backwards instead of sitting. That is fine. I just repeat the motion until I get a Sit. However, it is important not to repeat the verbal command. I only say “Sit” once.
- As soon as my puppy sits, I mark the behavior (Good!), and give him a treat from my other hand.
Once my puppy understands these simple commands, I ask him to do something for me, before I do anything for him in return. For example,
- Ask for a Look, before giving a puppy affection or tummy rubs.
- Ask for a Sit, before we open the door for our puppy to go on his daily walk.
- Ask for a Touch, before we give a puppy his interactive food toy.
This teaches our puppy that the best way to get what he wants, is to do what we want first. When my puppy bites, I no-mark the behavior (Ack-Ack) and give him an alternate command (e.g., Sit). This not only teaches our puppy what not to do (bite), but also what to do instead (sit).
2. Drag Lead
Sometimes, puppies get so excited while playing, that they are no longer able to listen to us. In general, I try to step in and have a play break before this happens. However, we may sometimes miss our window of opportunity, and our puppy becomes so excited that he will not stop biting or jumping.
In such situations, I find that it is extremely useful to have a drag lead on my puppy. By using a lead, I can easily control and stop his bad behavior.
Often, when a puppy bites, our instinct is to try and stop him by using our hands and arms. We push back, shout, and move-around a lot. All this hand and arm movement will only get him even more excited, because he thinks we are playing with him. Furthermore, rapid movement may trigger a dog’s prey drive and get him to bite more, and bite harder.
To stop a puppy from biting, it is important to stay calm, don’t shout, and not move in a fast and erratic fashion. Instead, I calmly pick up the drag lead and move my puppy into a quiet area, where he can calm down.
I use a flat collar with the drag lead. Do not use an aversive collar such as a choke chain or a prong. Such collars are risky. Some choose to use them during supervised walks, but they should always be removed at the end of the walk. I also cut the loop of my drag lead, so that it does not catch on furniture or objects in the house, while my puppy is running around. I only use a drag lead when I am around to supervise.
3. Lots of Exercise & Play
Puppies are extremely energetic and curious. As such, they often need a lot of activity and play time.
If we do not provide interesting and supervised activities for them to do, they will figure out their own activities which will rarely appeal to our human sensibilities. Bored puppies will start chewing on books, curtains, furniture, and people.
To reduce puppy biting, make sure to provide him with a lot of physical and mental stimulation.
Interactive food toys are a big favorite with my dogs. Instead of presenting food to them on a silver dog bowl, I put some of their food into interactive food toys. In this way, they are motivated to work on the toy, and they get mental and physical exercise while figuring out the best and fastest way to get at the food.
Daily walks will also help to drain a puppy’s energy. Make sure that a puppy has had all of his shots before taking him to areas where there are other dogs, and where there is poop from other dogs.
Puppies also love playing with other puppies. Nothing burns quite as much energy as a fun puppy chase and wrestling session. I make sure that all my puppy’s play-mates are balanced, healthy, and have had their requisite number of shots.
Other fun puppy games include soccer, catch, fetch, tug, and flirt pole.
4. Rules and Routine
Puppyhood is the best time to teach a dog new tricks. Puppies learn quickly, and are usually eager to please.
I set up a fixed routine for my puppy as early as possible, and also start enforcing a consistent set of house rules. My puppy routine includes food time, play time, walk time, chew time, grooming time, training time, and most important of all – sleep time. Puppy sleep time is when I get some much needed time-off, away from Energizer puppy. *Hooah!*
In the beginning, it is best to institute more house rules and to address them consistently. In this way, our puppy does not develop any bad habits, which will be hard to break later on.
My dogs have the following house rules –
- No getting on furniture.
- No biting on people or people stuff.
- No pawing on people.
- No guarding of toys or food.
- No bullying of other dogs.
Congratulations on your new puppy! Puppy time is precious and passes very quickly, so enjoy yourself and take lots of pictures. 😀
Hi I have 6 month old staffie and he keeps biting n jumping up ppl I have tryed alsorts 2 try stop this but nothing seem 2 be working he does listen though wen I say get in ur bed u naughty boy but thn he back 2 not listening
Hi! I have a huge problem with my 10 months golden retriever. When he is very excited he won`t stop jump and bite me. He started act this way when he was 6 months., and now it`s even worst. He is not doing this at home or in our yard but only when I`m taking him for walk. At home even when we are playing he won`t bite me at all. He can chase the ball for 15 minutes and without any reason he will start to bite my shoes, pants, and if I don`t react he will jump and bite my legs, and arms. I can`t calm him down at all, and I can`t just not react because it`s very painful. The other thing, that I just can`t leave him and walk away when I`m in the public place or far away from my home. I used almost every method and I totally don`t know what to do…I`m not using any prong collar, e-collar because I don`t believe in that kind of tools but I started to be really desperate. I was taking a toy with me to distract him but he doesn`t want a toy he prefers to bite my arms. I was using water spray, pet corrector and nothing. He knows all comments but when he is in this excitement mood he`s not listening at all. Sometimes he will sit, and after 5 seconds when I move he will start do exactly the same. And yes I`m giving him a lot of exercise, dog park, hiking. Unfortunately, I can take him to any public place or far away from my apartment. It`s so frustrated because he is really great puppy and I totally don`t know what is wrong. I fixed him 2 weeks ago, and actually he is more out of control then before. Any advice?
I went through a similar thing with my Shiba Inu. He would bite on the leash as well as jump and bite on me. More on our experiences –
I have e a 13 month old English and American bulldog at night he starts to get mouthy, and he bites at my hands and it hurts now. He’s’ 56 pounds. I say no or leave it or I put him in his crate. When will he stop?
We have an 8 month old gsd pup. And he refuses to stop biting. We tried bite inhibatition when he was younger and it worked for two days in which after a month of not being able to pet him I was able to have him calmly in my lap. After those two days, the technique lost its hold on him and he would bite harder than ever. Then, a hard bite would scratch but now that he’s older he has started to chew on my arms instead. He has a chewtoy he loves and never leaves and he gets a 25-30 minute brisk walk in the morning and three intense 15 minute play sessions otherwise. I exercise him before and after school timings. In the middle of the mayhem there were days in which his hosting stopped altogether after we moved and he was as calm as a sea breeze but then, without any prior warning, while I sat with him he turned his attention to NY face and began to mouth it. Being COMPLETELY UNACCEPTABLE I got up gave his leash a tug (his leash status on all day now because of this) and he did a nice sit and shake but got right back at jumping, biting and making a chewing motion on my arm. When we let him lose in the yard (which is normally only in play) he’ll run into the yard and then towards me and start jumping and biting. Other than this he’s a gem and I hate that this bit of him overpowers all the good things he does and has learnt. Any help is appreciated.
If I get my dog nurtured will he not be as hyper?
It wont necessarily cure his hyper nature. It’ll help REDUCE humping behaviour and give him one less need to fulfill and so reduce food intake. It may make him less aggressive towards other male dogs but his Hyper-ness is built up energy. Best outlet would be a long run or jog or a game of Frisbee. Something like a lure course or flirt pole would be great for the high drive and if done right, you can teach him to control his impulses. Neutering, if you go for it, is not always suitable for a puppy that’s too young and can cause a lot of problems too if at the wrong age and time. I think he’s too young, judging from the last comment you left. I’m sixteen, got myself in a similar situation with a German shepherd 😛
Hi I am a 17 year old who has gotten herself into some trouble but hoping someone could help me.. About 2 months ago I brought home a husky/lab mix 6 month old puppy. He was chained up all alone in my friends back yard and I just couldn’t take it so I offered to take him off of their hands and bring him home with me. I live on a large farm with fields and lots of room for the pup to play or so I thought. Smokey (the puppy), turned out to be a whole lot more misbehaving than I thought he was. He jumps, bites, scratches and destroys everything!! He really is a sweet dog I can tell he wants to be a good boy but I don’t know how to break these habits. For the past couple of weeks he’s been staying in a fenced area because he runs off and kills our chickens, I have been trying to get him to calm down enough to come in the house and sleep inside but he is far too hyper to even lay down without tearing the room apart first. My parents are threatening to give him away but I just feel like I owe it to this little guy to at least help him in some way, I’m desperate for help!!
What are you doing to “calm him down”? Young huskies need TONS of exercise and they need to be kept busy. They aren’t a dog you can leave outside alone by itself and they aren’t a dog that will lay around the house chilling. Even a fenced yard is often not enough and huskies are often not suitable for off-leash activities because they have an extremely high prey drive. (which you have already seen with your dog) If you want the dog to calm down, you need to spend a couple hours a day running, walking, playing, and training him. A young husky can easily knock out a 8-mile run like it’s nothing, and my dad used to take his husky on long runs like this to burn off her energy. Huskies are very smart and intelligent and get bored easily, so you need to keep him busy with training and activities.