Why do puppies bite?
Unlike us, puppies do not have opposable thumbs, so they manipulate stuff with their mouths, in the same way that we manipulate stuff with our hands. New puppies or young dogs will try to put everything into their mouths, because they are curious about objects and their surroundings.
Therefore, puppy biting is normal canine behavior.
Puppies also play with each other through play-biting. When a puppy bites too hard during play, his siblings may yelp and stop interacting for a short duration. Biting too hard on an adult dog (e.g. their mother), may also result in an undesirable consequence. In this way, puppies learn social rules and boundaries.
There is nothing wrong with dogs or puppies biting each other during play, but it is crucial to teach them to be careful with their mouths when interacting with people.
A puppy who is not taught this lesson, may become a danger to all the people around him, including his owners. Play-biting with humans, especially seniors and children, may cause accidental injuries and ultimately result in forced euthanasia.
If our puppy is biting us or others in an uncontrolled way, it is best for everyone not to engage in rough play with him. Also, do not play games that encourage biting such as Tug-of-War.
How to Deal with Puppy Biting
I deal with puppy biting by training my dog in three important areas –
1. Bite inhibition training
People have thinner and more sensitive skins than dogs do. Therefore, one of the first things that I teach my puppy is to control the force of his bites, especially when interacting with me and others.
2. Redirection and no-bite conditioning
When my dog bites on people, clothing, or unsanctioned objects (e.g. books, wires), I no-mark to let him know that it is an undesirable behavior. Then, I redirect his mouth onto something acceptable, and reward him for doing the right thing. In this way, he learns which objects are off-limits, as well as what he should do instead.
3. Excitement and self-control
An over-excited puppy, who lacks self-control, will tend to bite more often and with greater force. By managing my puppy’s excitement level and teaching him to control his impulses, I set him up for success, and reduce the number of instances where he engages in bad biting behavior.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
~~[Benjamin Franklin]
When dealing with puppy biting issues, I always try to stay calm but firm. I do my best to catch problems early on, and fix them before they escalate in degree and frequency.
If a dog is causing puncture wounds, or escalating his aggressive biting behavior, it is best to get professional help as soon as possible.
In this article, I discuss bite inhibition training and no-bite conditioning. For more on managing a puppy’s excitement level, please refer to Managing Puppy Excitement and Self-Control.
Bite Inhibition
Some dogs may have low bite thresholds. This means that they resort to biting or aggression even with fairly low, seemingly harmless stimuli.
One of my dogs, a Shiba Inu, can get mouthy when he is excited or frustrated, when I restrain him, when I stop him from doing something, and much more. Because of this, it is extremely important to train him to have good bite inhibition.
I start bite inhibition exercises as soon as I bring a puppy home. Even though puppy teeth are sharp, a puppy does not have the jaw strength of an adult, and is not capable of doing as much damage. Once my puppy has a soft mouth, I train him to stop biting on people.
Hand-feeding is a good way to teach our puppies to control the force of their bites. I hand-feed my puppy at least some of his kibble every day. If he bites too hard when getting his food, I do a sharp ouch or yelp, and ignore him for a few seconds. This teaches him that if he bites too hard, the food stops.
If my puppy is taking food from me gently, I praise him and keep the food coming. Often, I will combine hand-feeding with puppy obedience training and dog grooming sessions. Hand-feeding can also help prevent food aggression issues, so I continue this practice throughout my dog’s life.
We can also get Ian Dunbar’s book After You Get Your Puppy, for an overview of bite inhibition training.
Initially, Dunbar may come across as somewhat alarmist. We may feel that if we do not meet his somewhat unrealistic dog socialization and puppy training demands, things are going to go badly. I just try to ignore the alarmist talk, and focus on the bite inhibition and handling exercises, which are quite useful.
I am very thankful that my puppy (now adult dog) has a soft mouth. Because my Shiba Inu has good bite inhibition, we were able to solve many of his subsequent issues, which would have been difficult to deal with if he were biting at full strength.
When Our Puppy Bites …
When our puppy bites, it is important NOT to jerk our hand away. If we jerk away, we will likely get scratched. In addition, sudden and quick movements may make our puppy think that it is a fun game. This rewards the biting behavior, and encourages him to bite on us even more.
In the worst case, quick movements can activate a dog’s prey drive, and encourage aggressive behaviors. Therefore, it is important to control this reflex action, and stay still. In addition, I give a no-mark or yelp as a puppy might do to his litter-mates, when they are playing too rough.
I usually yelp when it is an accidental dog bite, for example when my dog gets his teeth on me while taking food out of my hand. Yelping is also appropriate for puppies that are still learning the rules. Otherwise, I use No for adult and adolescent dogs, who should know better.
After the no-mark, I always follow-up with a positive command, e.g. redirect him onto a toy.
1. Redirect Our Puppy onto a Toy
This technique is especially useful for an untrained puppy. It lets him know that it is ok to bite on a toy, but not ok to bite on people.
For example, my dog gets excited and starts biting when I scratch his tummy. Therefore, I used that as a training exercise to get him to bite on a toy, instead of on my hand. Since I can start the exercise anytime I want, I control the environment and make sure that I have multiple soft toys nearby for use. I make sure to reward my dog very well with food and affection when he redirects, so that I further reinforce the behavior.
A toy can also be useful for those cases where the puppy is losing control, and getting a bit too excited or frustrated. Giving him something to redirect his excitement or frustration at, may help to calm him down.
If I do not have a toy handy, I can also redirect by giving my puppy an alternate and simple command that he knows very well, e.g. Sit.
2. Withdraw Attention and Affection
Often, a puppy starts to bite at us because he wants to play or interact. Therefore, if my puppy does not respond to my redirect, then I withdraw my attention and affection. I do this by standing up, folding up my arms, and ignoring him. I make sure not to give any eye contact, not to talk, and not to engage him in any other way.
This is also called a timeout lite.
By doing this, my puppy learns that-
Out of control biting and jumping = No play, no attention, and no affection,
Gentle interaction = Play continues, food rewards, and extra attention.
Sometimes, my puppy may get too excited and escalate his behavior by biting on feet, or jumping and trying to bite on clothing. This is something that I absolutely do not allow because it can be very dangerous, especially with children and the elderly.
If my puppy escalates his behavior, I no-mark, say “Timeout”, and take him to a low stimulus timeout area immediately.
NOTE – In general, I try to set my dog up for success by managing his excitement level. In this way, I keep timeout-necessary episodes to a minimum.
3. Timeout
Most dogs value their freedom to roam around the house and backyard. Dogs are also pack animals, and like being with both human and canine members of the family. Since a timeout takes away both of these things, it is an extremely effective method of dog discipline.
When giving my dog a timeout –
- I make sure to put him in a really boring room, with no windows that he can reach. Currently, my dog’s timeout area is the laundry room.
- I check that the room is safe, and contains nothing that he can chew, play, or interact with in any way.
- Finally, I ensure that nobody gives puppy any attention during his timeout period.
It is better not to use a crate for timeouts. Crates are useful for transportation, management, and more. Therefore, I ensure that the crate is a happy place, where my dog feels comfortable going to for some peace and quiet, for sleep, and to chew on his favorite toy.
I find that a timeout is the most effective way to stop my dogs from biting. However, I only use it when my puppy is deliberately acting out, and not for accidental bites.
Initially, I start with a short 1 minute timeout. If my dog continues to bite right after he comes out, I return him to the laundry room for a much longer period of time (about 15 minutes). Be flexible with the timeout duration, and adjust it according to our dog’s age, temperament, and behavior. Some trainers do not believe in long timeouts, while others may ignore their dogs (timeout lite) for hours.
Do not use timeouts for training mistakes or lack of motivation.
How to Stop Puppy Biting
Some trainers suggest using aversive techniques to stop dog biting. For example, one suggested making my hand into a fist (so my fingers are safe), and then pushing my fist gently in when my puppy bites. This is uncomfortable for the puppy, and he will likely release our hand.
While it did get my puppy to release my hand, it did not reduce his biting behavior. In fact, my dog responds badly to any aversive methods. Doing this made him want to bite on me even more, because he got a reaction, and now has something (my fist) to fight with.
The same thing occurred with spraying water on his muzzle; he just started attacking the water bottle.
Ultimately, aversive techniques were not very effective with my dog, and caused even more behavioral issues. With aversive methods, it is difficult to trick a puppy into thinking that the bad stimulus is not coming from us. This can compromise a puppy’s trust and weaken our bond with him.
Instead, when my puppy bites,
- I first use a no-mark, for example, No or Ack-Ack to let him know that it is an undesirable behavior.
- Then, I redirect him onto a toy or give him an alternate command, for example Sit. If he stops biting and follows the command, then I praise him and reward him with attention and a fun game.
- If he continues to bite, I start with a timeout-lite by first withdrawing my attention. I do this by standing up, folding my arms, and turning away from him.
- If he escalates his behavior and starts to jump or bite on my clothing, then I quickly remove him to his full timeout area.
I always try to set my dog up for success by managing his excitement level. When he starts biting, I try to redirect and turn things into a positive learning experience. I only escalate my response when I absolutely have to, and I try my best to minimize those instances.
Kiba’s finally remembered he’s a Shiba Inu and is getting an attitude. 🙂 He’s started nipping in the following scenarios:
1.) If I pet his hind quarters when he’s hyper – he doesn’t like this, but an anti-mark will usually make him let it be. He’ll still open his mouth and shake his head at me, but he won’t make contact with his mouth.
2.) When we’re sitting on the couch with our feet on the ottoman – he’ll bit the backs of our calves. Nothing seems to help with this behavior except closing his mouth firmly while anti-marking.
3.) When he gets hyper playing – redirecting or stopping play will USUALLY work.
I like the time out idea, but the only appropriate room downstairs is a bathroom with a cabinet he could (and would) eat. We have an upstairs laundry room, but even at a brisk walk, it takes about 45 seconds to catch the puppy, climb over the baby gate, go up the stairs, and stick him in. I’m worried in that time he’ll forget why he’s even going.
Any suggestions? What about a second crate that’s put in a quiet, low light area just for time out?
One other thing – When his nipping gets really annoying and he isn’t responding to anti-marks or stop of play, I’ve been holding his muzzle closed. He doesn’t think it’s a game (he really hates it) and it will make him stop most of the time.
Hello Andrea,
Sorry for the late reply. I just got a Sibe puppy last weekend and have been busy doing potty training.
I am also getting a good reminder of the key challenges of caring for a new puppy. I suppose it gives me some good material to write about once all the craziness is over with and I catch up on some sleep. 😀
In terms of time-out there are two other possibilities –
1. Use a tie-down. This allows you to tether him in a non-enclosed but hopefully low stimulus area of the house.
2. Use a puppy enclosure. This has been working well with my Sibe puppy, although I mostly use it for potty training. The nice thing with an enclosure is that it is easy to put puppy into it, and puppy will not have any bad associations with his crate.
In general, it is best not to use a crate for time-out because we want Shiba to view it as a positive and safe space. In this way, he will willingly go into his crate at night or when nobody is home.
Thanks for the ideas,guys
Adopted dog BITING VISITORS! help!
Hi- I adopted a fixed 7 YO male about a month ago. He is fairly well behaved with me & does respect me in all areas but one: He purposely bites visitors. This behavior was displayed on day 2- I thought, due to fear of new home, people, etc…but it has not subsided. He will greet them calmly and even approach to be pet- go and lay down, but after if they dare to move at ALL… he will charge, bite their feet or legs… of course this was not mentioned during adoption from prior owner.. and quite frankly, I am afraid to be sued. I am not afraid of the dog and do not back down or away, and he knows he has done wrong as he will lay down or try to run after doing it.. but he KEEPS doing it! I have tried removing toys etc.. the dog simply does not care because he generally doesn’t want them till hours later anyway. “No”, “Time out”… not working..Even leash correction ,which I now have him on leash at all times, he’s not getting it. Most recently he also did the behavior outside with a neighbor. I have pretty much given up on this and I quite frankly don’t want a dog that cannot be trusted near others- ANY ideas? Shelters & trainers advice ” oh well just tie him up when company comes” yeah, great. And I can also catch a wolverine & tie that in the corner as a pet too- any last ideas, or sanctuary locations in the NorthEast welcome. Very sad about this situation.
Hello K,
From what you describe it sounds like the dog is trying to keep people from leaving him. Likely, he has not had an easy life, and is afraid of being left behind yet again.
Since he has already progressed to biting, it may be best to get a professional trainer to help manage this behavior. In particular, the dog now associates people leaving as something very negative. To help manage the behavior, we want to help him re-associate “the people leaving event” with something positive.
One thing that may help is to lead the dog away from the person before the person leaves. Then hold onto the leash and engage the dog in play or obedience exercises while the person leaves. In this way he is distracted from the “leaving event” and most importantly he is not close to people when they leave.
Hi!
My Shiba Inu (Cookie-3mo old) wont stop biting me and my husband. We tried the methods of yelping/screaming when he bites, time out room when he kept on biting even though we yelp but none of that helps. His first encounters with other people, he would act shy and timid… but after a while of knowing you, then he shows his monster inside of him. The more I yelp, the more i think I become his squeeky chew toy. So I was wondering what should I do next?
Hmmm – I would definitely stop doing the yelping thing because it seems to increase his excitement. Based on what you are saying, Cookie probably views biting as a fun game to play and yelping makes it seem like even more fun.
Sephy was also very mouthy as a puppy and what worked best for him are time-outs. How does Cookie act after you let him out of time-out? What do you do if he starts biting again after time-out? How long do you put him in time-out for and usually how many back-to-back time-outs does he get? Timing and technique were very important for Sephy when I was giving him time-outs.
Another possibility is that you could play with Cookie in a puppy pen. If he bites too hard, non-mark him (ack-ack) and withdraw all your attention. If he continues, then just leave the puppy pen and close the door behind you. This shows him that if he bites too hard, play stops and he loses access to his most cherished person – you.
Another possibility is sound aversion. Put a bunch of coins in a can. When Cookie starts biting non-mark him (ack-ack) and withdraw all of your attention. If he continues, then calmly get the can and shake it to make a loud sound. This will startle Cookie. Also most dogs really don’t like that sound so after some repetitions, it may get them to reduce the behavior.
Finally, bite inhibition training also really helped with Sephy. Shibas tend to be very mouthy dogs so Sephy’s first reaction to most things is to bite. Bite inhibition training really saved me when he got older and started to do some really serious leash biting and jacket biting on me. Here is more on bite inhibition –
http://shibashake.com/dog/bite-inhibition
Good luck. Let us know how it goes with Cookie.
Hello! my name is Ivan and my family has a shiba-inu as well. His name is Juno and i would just like to know if there is a way to make him more social with other dogs because when he sees other dogs, he gets very aggressive and very scary to the dog and to me. I don’t really know how to make him calm and just get along with other dogs. We got Juno when we was 6 months old already, so I don’t know if it is because he was not trained with other animals when he was a puppy or is it because he is a shiba-inu, since we all know, stubbornness is a shiba-inu trait. We love out little Juno and can’t wait to celebrate his 1st birthday very soon. thank you for this website since I have learned so much from it. you are a life-saver!!
Hello Ivan,
Yeah Shibas can be very particular about other dogs. My Shiba really does not get along with dominant dogs and he does not like dogs sniffing his butt. Some things that have helped us most –
1. Only do dog introductions slowly and in a controlled environment. Nowadays I only do one-on-one greetings. Dogs parks for example, I have found to be way too chaotic for Shiba Sephy.
2. Carefully observe Shiba and see what are the things that trigger stress. Is it other dogs coming in his space? Is it other dogs sniffing his butt?
3. Controlling my own energy. I used to get stressed worrying about what Shiba might do. That made things worse because Shibas especially are very sensitive to the energy of the people around them. Sephy quickly picked up on my stress and started getting stressed himself.
I have written several articles about Shiba Sephy’s experiences with other dogs that may be helpful –
Socializing a Shiba Inu to Other Dogs
Dog to Dog Aggression
Big Happy Birthday wishes to Juno! Let us know how things go with him.
Hello Meaghan,
I also considered using a shock collar on my Shiba in the beginning because he was so out of control. After doing some research into these collars, I decided against it. Here are some of the things I found –
http://www.shibashake.com/dog/dog-shock-collar-good-bad
What worked best for my Shiba in terms of his biting –
1. Having a drag lead (only with a flat collar) on him at all times when he is outside of his crate and I am around to supervise. The drag lead allowed me to more easily control him without playing his favorite catch me if you can games.
2. Time-outs – Biting on people is a time-out offense. Every time he bites, I non-mark him (ack-ack) and if he does not stop I say time-out and put him in the laundry room where it is very boring and there is nothing to do. This way he learns that if he bites – he loses his freedom and his ability to be with his pack.
3. Bite-inhibition – This trained him to have a soft mouth which really saved me later on when he started going crazy with leash biting.
4. Following the NILIF program – This simply means Shiba must do something for me first before getting anything in return including all food, toys, affection, freedom, getting out of time-out, everything.
5. Consistent set of rules, consistent enforcing of those rules, and controlling my own energy.
Here are two more articles that may help –
Puppy Obedience Training
Pack Leader to an Aggressive Dog
I have a 6 month old Shiba Inu. I have been having a problem with her biting. She likes to go after peoples feet and grab their pants when people walk. Ever since she was spayed about 1 week ago she has become more aggressive and constantly biting. Everytime she gives me a toy she bites my hand or leg when I am ignoring her. She has never drawn blood but the strength of her bites have gotten worse. I have used clapping, a can with coins, tabasco sauce, and grabbing her muzzle. After grabbing her muzzle and releasing it she would lung and snap back at my hand. With the tabasco sauce in a spray bottle she runs away I can not catch her so she does not always get reprimanded. I am looking at getting a shock collar because I don’t know what else to do. Every time I say no to her about anything she does not listen and I have run out of ideas. Do you have any??
It is important to set rules and boundaries within the house so that the dog understands what is acceptable behavior and what is not.
Another important aspect is the energy of the people in the house. If people are fearful or nervous around the dog, it will cause the dog to be fearful and nervous as well which may then result in aggression.
It is probably best to get a professional trainer to come visit so that he can observe your dog and come up with a program that everyone in the family can follow. Your dog is still very young so now is the best time to re-train these behaviors and redirect him into positive activities.
A good professional trainer will be able to help you do that.
http://www.apdt.com/po/ts/default.aspx
Hi I have a 12 week old Jindo dog that bite and growls at family members. He hasn’t bite me or my dad yet but he growls at us occasionally. He has bite my mom 3 times and my sister twice and growls more at them. What are some things that i can do to fix this behavior?
Haha – yeah Shiba Sephy is very stubborn as well. What works best is to convince him that it is something he wants to do anyway 🙂 Also, when I interact with my Siberian, Sephy will get all interested and want to show that he can do commands as well – lol. Competition works very well with a Shiba.
“By the way your shiba is very gorgeous i think my puppy will turn out that color but she still has puppy fluff :)”
Thanks! Haha- I liked the puppy fluff. It is interesting that Sephy had a dark muzzle when he was a puppy but it got really light when his adult coat grew in.
Would love to see your furball so post some pictures for us when you have the time.