One common reason for getting a second dog is to keep our first dog company.
The hope is that our dogs can spend their days playing together, and draining each other’s energy. When we come home, they will be happy to lie around, be calm, and be mostly well-behaved. Since the dogs have each other, there will be less need for us to play with them, walk them, or otherwise keep them engaged.
Reality however, is quite different from this idyllic picture.
In my experience, having two dogs is a lot more work than having just one, especially in the beginning. My dogs amp each other up, get more excited together, and lead each other into more trouble than before.
This is not to say that getting a second dog is a bad idea. However, I think that getting another dog for the wrong reasons, will degrade quality of life for everyone in the family, both human and dog.
When to Get a Second Dog?
I waited for over 1 year before getting another dog. I wanted the extra time to bond with my first dog, properly obedience train him, and make sure I had most of his issues under control.
Only get a second dog when we have good control over our first dog, and have ensured that he is mostly well behaved.
During the first year, I was very tempted to get another dog, as a way to keep my hyperactive Shiba Inu company. Now, I am very glad that I did not do so until both Shiba and I were ready. Having two hyperactive dogs, that were mostly out of control, would have been very stressful for everyone involved.
In addition, issues may arise with the new dog. For example, puppy Shania had issues with her leg, had to go through multiple surgeries, and a leg amputation. I do not think I would have been able to deal with all that, if my other dog were misbehaving at the same time.
I had to spend a lot of time with Shania during her recovery, and did not have as much time for my other dog, but he was totally ok with that for about 5 months.
Therefore, give yourself enough of a time, energy, and financial buffer. If you are starting to feel like you have way too much free time, and that your first dog is sleeping too much, then it may be time to get another. 😀
How to Pick a Second Dog
What type of dog should we get?
It is always important to get a dog that fits in with our lifestyle, temperament, and energy level. In general, we want to get a dog that has slightly lower energy than we do, and that will enjoy the types of activities that we enjoy.
In addition to all that, a second dog will also have to get along and fit in with the temperament, lifestyle, and play style of our existing dog.
1. Size of second dog.
My resident dog, Shiba Sephy, has a high energy play style. As a result, he frequently overwhelms smaller dogs, and they usually stay away from him during play sessions. He has most fun playing with larger, more boisterous dogs. His favorite breed during supervised play groups, is the Pit Bull Terrier.
I carefully observe my dog while he is playing, and try to identify the types of dogs that he likes interacting with most. In addition to fun, I also identify breeds that my dog shows the most positive and least negative behaviors with.
2. Temperament of second dog.
Being a Shiba Inu, Sephy does not do well with dominant dogs. He likes dogs that are as goofy as he is, and is more interested in playing, than in exerting dominance. While Sephy does not try to dominate other dogs, he will not back down if other dogs try to dominate him. This could ultimately result in a fight.
For a second dog, I made sure to get a puppy that was more submissive in nature.
In addition, the Siberian Husky breed is also known for being affectionate toward people, with a lower protective drive. This balances out my Shiba’s more aloof personality, and his natural watch dog instincts.
In this way, Husky can receive most of the human affection when Shiba is in aloof mode. Similarly, when Shiba alerts to noises around the house, Husky usually just ignores it. Therefore, they complement, rather than amplify each other’s energy.
Husky Shania is also very food focused, and much more interested in doing obedience exercises. After she joined our family, Sephy actually became more obedient because he would come over and participate in training exercises with us.
3. Meeting and greeting a new dog.
How we meet and greet a new dog greatly depends on the temperament of our current dog. In general, it is best for the dogs to meet on neutral territory (e.g. quiet park), so that our existing dog does not get protective over his home turf.
Some things to consider during the meet and greet –
a) Do not force the greeting.
I usually have both dogs on-leash and with separate handlers. Both handlers should be calm and in control. We bring both dogs into the meet area, observe their body language, and how they react to each other. If they seem calm, we try walking them around the park at a comfortable distance.
If all goes well, we slowly bring them in closer together. I observe them closely while doing this, and do not force a greeting if there is extreme stress or signs of aggression.
Like us, dogs are individuals and may not get along with certain other dogs.
Before getting Shania, I looked into adopting a Siberian Husky and had a couple of meetings. However, the rescue dogs got spooked by Sephy, and became stressed around him.
b) Test-drive the new dog.
I first took Shania home for a test-drive week, to see if she would get along with Sephy.
Most good local breeders and adoption/rescue organizations are flexible with the initial try-out period. In fact, they are usually willing to take a dog back, even when things do not work out in the longer term.
After all, everyone wants what is best for the dog.
Introducing a Second Dog into the Home
After getting a new dog, we want to focus on successfully introducing her into the home. Some of the things that helped my resident dog get along well with our new puppy –
- Positive experiences. I try to create positive experiences when both dogs are together. In this way, they will see each other as allies.
- Group obedience training. I have several group training sessions, where both dogs work together for me and get rewarded together.
- Consistent and fair rules. I make sure that I am consistent and fair with all my dogs. They follow similar rules, as well as receive similar consequences and rewards. I also make it a point to be fair with affection and attention.
- Rest time. Puppies tend to be on-the-go most of the time. I make sure that the new puppy does not bother my other dogs when they want to rest, or just want some peace and quiet.
- No stealing. I supervise my dogs closely to make sure they do not steal from each other. Stealing can encourage food aggression and resource guarding issues down the road.
Good luck with your second dog and feel free to share your experiences and questions with us below.
Hello!I have a small breed dog -maltese.She isn’t very social when it comes to dogs but she gets along now and then with some dogs,especially the ones that are more calm even if they are much bigger than her.The problem is that there is a stray dog out of our house and we want to keep him.Nobody else is interested and our neighbourhood is not very kind to dogs.So we are his only chance.He is bigger than her…I am guessing around 15 kilos and she is 2,5.She barks at him every time that she sees him.We try to let them take their time but the stray dog is a puppy and chases her and she freaks out and barks.He puts his paws on her body in order to stop her and she get more anxious.I know that is a long shot but what would you reccomend in this situation?How will I make them get along?I have to …
Additional information:The stray dog,bruno is close to our house but no just outside our house so I don’t know if it consindered as her territory.
My dog,Ruby, is two years old.
With my dogs, I set up clear dog-to-dog interaction rules. I supervise closely during play-time, meal-time, and other times of interaction to make sure that everyone is following my rules. I usually put a drag-lead on my new puppy so that I can quickly and easily control her, if need be, and teach her good play manners. I only use a drag-lead under supervision and only with a safe flat collar. Absolutely no aversive collars.
As soon as I notice the start of any anti-social behavior, I no-mark, interrupt play, and redirect. In this way, I redirect undesirable behavior *before* it escalates into a negative experience. Prevention is best. In this way, my dogs know exactly what to expect from each other, what to expect from me, and what I expect from them in return. This creates certainty and certainty helps to reduce stress and conflicts.
The more successful and calm experiences my dogs have together, the more confidence and trust they build, the more positive associations they form, and the better their interactions. Similarly, negative experiences will undermine that trust, set back training, and worsen future behavior. Therefore, I always manage their environment and set them up for success. During play, I throw in many play-breaks to refocus their attention back onto me, and manage their excitement level. I always have safe zones where they can go to, and I stop play as soon as I notice any dog getting overwhelmed.
My dogs are all comparable in size and play style. More strict rules will have to be put in place if there are large size differences. A large dog can accidentally hurt a smaller dog even just in play.
I set up a routine for my puppy as well as consistent rules. I do not let my new dog bother or disturb my older dogs when they want some alone time. I make sure to exercise and play with my new dog separately, so that he has good, structured outlets for his puppy energy. I create positive and calm together time for my dogs by doing group obedience sessions.
I do not leave my dogs together unsupervised until I am extremely sure that there will be absolutely no issues. I use gates, enclosures, leashes, and basket-muzzles if necessary to always keep everyone safe.
More on how I introduce a new dog.
Given the large size difference, I would consult with a good professional trainer/behaviorist on management techniques, so that both dogs can interact safely and positively.
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/finding-professional-help
https://apdt.com/pet-owners/choosing-a-trainer/
We have made some progress.They are able to co-exist outside.We take them out for a walk together every day.Although some new problems have come up.First of all,we took Bruno to the vet today,he is six months old and as I had predicted 15 kilos.My existing dog Ruby doesn’t bark at him anymore but now Bruno seems to make some moves towards her(he is on leash when we go out for a walk) that I don’t now if he does that to play or if He is aggressive towards her.So I am a little worried and still I haven’t managed to let him be inside .How will I make this happen?Should I just put him in or should I wait more?How will I do that?Please ,I need any piece of information that you can give me.Thank you very much for your time in advance.
We have a Shiba/ German shepherd mix, best dog ever but she has horrible separation issues she barks when we are gone and sometimes pee’s in her crate. We have tried TV and challenging toys to try and help her. We keep our schedule pretty consistent during the school yr and are around more in the summer. Nothing seems to help her anxiety. We have been looking at getting another puppy but we are unsure if this will make her anxiety worse or if she will pass on the barking to the puppy? Any advice welcomed!
I helped my Shiba Inu with his separation anxiety by slowly desensitizing him to alone time. I start with very short periods of alone time (seconds) and very slowly build up from there. The more calm and successful alone time he has, the more confidence he builds, and the more relaxed he becomes when in his own company. Similarly, panic attacks and negative events will undermine that confidence, significantly set back retraining, and worsen his anxiety symptoms.
Therefore, I had to manage Sephy very carefully and make sure to always set him up for success. If I need to leave for longer than he is currently ready for, then I get someone that he trusts to be with him.
As such, getting another dog will most likely not help, and may make things worse. Before getting a second dog, I made sure to resolve most of my existing dog’s behavioral issues first. In this way, I can focus on training the new dog, and helping both dogs get along. I would also not have to worry about my new dog developing/inheriting behavioral issues from my existing dog. My dogs pick up on each other’s energy, so if one gets anxious or excited, the others will become so as well.
This article from the ASPCA has more on separation anxiety and desensitization exercises-
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/dog-behavior/separation-anxiety
Getting a good professional trainer can also be helpful, especially in the beginning, to help with timing, technique, and management of the desensitization process.
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/finding-professional-help
https://apdt.com/pet-owners/choosing-a-trainer/
Thank you so much for the great article. There are so many things to consider. My husband and I are thinking about adopting a second, male catahoula as a companion for our first, three year old female catahoula, Allie. There’s a two year old male available at our local shelter. My biggest question is, how do you know that your first dog wants or needs a canine companion? Should we be concerned at all about her being resentful of a new addition?
Thanks for your time!
With my Shiba, it was pretty easy to tell. He loves playing with easy-going dogs. We used to take him for training and structured play-sessions with other dogs at our local SPCA, and he loved it. When he was a puppy, he would not stop playing during puppy class. He is much more dog focused than he is people focused.
Does Allie enjoy the company of other dogs? How are her dog-to-dog interactions like? What type of dogs does she enjoy playing with? What is her reaction to other dogs during walks? Has she met other dogs before in the house? Does she try to guard objects from other dogs? How does she react to new things or changes to her routine?
Now that my Shiba is older (almost 9) he is a lot more picky and it takes him longer to accept a new puppy. However, with proper supervision and management, he sees that the new dog is an enhancement, and accepts her. The key thing with my dogs is to make the puppy experience positive and rewarding. I set up clear dog-to-dog interaction rules and a fixed routine. I manage the environment and supervise all interactions. As soon as I notice the start of any anti-social behavior, I interrupt and redirect. I also do not let the new dog bother my existing dogs when they want to rest or want some alone time.
In this way, all of my dogs understand exactly what to expect from each other, what to expect from me, and what I expect from them in return. This creates certainty, and certainty helps to reduce stress and conflicts.
More on how I introduce a new dog.
With my dogs, there are two important phases to success-
1. Picking the right dog, which I talk about in the article above.
2. Supervision and management during the introductory period, so as to maximize positive experiences and minimize negative events and conflicts. I do not leave my dogs together unsupervised, until I am very very sure that there will be no issues or accidents.
Hi, thanks for this article, very timely and instructive as I am considering getting a second dog I am hesitant because my dog ( a female old boston bull dog) is dominant and can snap at other dog easily ( she was bitten badly shorly after I adopted her by another dog and since then it is hit and miss when we introduce her to other dog she tends to be hyper dominant from the get go) From what I read getting an adult male her size or bigger could be ok, but I am still on the fence.
One thing that really helped with my Shiba Inu were structured sessions with other dogs at our local SPCA. We would take him there for both training and structured play, with appropriate trainer chosen dogs. We did desensitization training first, under the direction of a trainer, and then we would have some fun but structured dog-play sessions.
More on how we did dog-to-dog desensitization exercises with our Shiba Inu.
These sessions also helped us identify what type of dogs do well with Sephy, and get along best with him. It also helped him be more relaxed around other dogs, and to learn good interaction behaviors. After Sephy improved, and we got a good idea of favorite playmates, we started looking for a second dog.
With Sephy, we introduced him to prospective dogs first, and see how they get along. We may do multiple introductions, and I take my time with the whole process so that I get a good match for Sephy, the new dog, and the whole family.
I have a 2 year old male yellow lab. He is a great dog and we want to get him a sibling. We want to bring another dog into our home. Oakley is a great dog, but he gets really excited when he see’s another dog and plays rough when he plays with other dogs. I am worried that once we get a puppy it will be scared or not get along with oakley. He is neutered and has been better with dogs. We want to get a male puppy. Another thing i worry about is that they will fight. The puppy will be neutered once he turns a year old. But in the time before I worry they might fight. I am weighing all the pros and cons of getting a new dog before we get another.
When getting a new dog, I focus on two important areas-
1. Getting a dog with temperament and characteristics that I know will fit well with my existing dogs and with our family’s lifestyle.
2. Setting up a structured home environment that will set all my dogs up for success.
Temperament and physical characteristics
I observe my existing dogs carefully and try to identify the types of dogs that they enjoy being with most. For example, my Shiba Inu likes wrestling and playing rough. As a result, he does not get along well with smaller dogs or even dogs who are the same size, because they usually get overwhelmed and become fearful of him.
I took him for lots of play sessions at our local SPCA, and from there I saw that he gets along best with easy-going playful dogs, that are larger than him. He does not get along with more dominant dogs because if challenged, little Shiba will not back down. When I got a second dog, I looked for a bigger breed, one who also likes to wrestle and play rough, and I picked a more submissive puppy.
Picking a new dog with compatible temperament and physical characteristics will ensure that the integration process goes more smoothly.
Structure, Supervision, and Positive Experiences
The other important part of getting a new dog, is to introduce and integrate him properly with my family (both people and dogs). I set up a fixed routine for my new puppy right away, as well as a consistent set of dog-to-dog interaction rules and house rules. I supervise closely during dog-to-dog interaction periods, especially play-time and eating-time. I make sure that everyone is following my rules, and as soon as I notice any undesirable behavior, I quickly redirect before things escalate into something more.
In this way, my dogs know exactly what to expect from each other, what to expect from me, and what I expect from them in return. This creates certainty, and certainty helps to reduce stress and conflicts.
In addition to minimizing negative experiences, I also try to create as many positive experiences as I can. I do a lot of group obedience training sessions where all my dogs are focused on me. I reward them very very well for staying calm together and for doing work for me. I try to set everyone up for success by managing my dogs’ environment and routine. I use management equipment such as gates and leashes as needed. I do not let my new dog bother my existing dogs when they want to rest or want alone time. I do not leave my new dog alone with my existing dogs until I am very very sure that there will be no issues.
More on how I help my dogs get along.
Big hugs to Oakley! Sounds like he will enjoy a new sibling very much! 😀
I have a 5 year old min pin and am thinking of getting a doberman puppy because I have always wanted to have a big dog I would like your opinion, as I am very tempted
What types of dogs does your min pin enjoy playing with? What is his usual reaction to large dogs? Is he relaxed or fearful?
Big size differences can be challenging when it comes to play, walking, etc. At the dog park, I have seen a Great Dane play with a Pug, so play is definitely possible. However, it is very risky because even a little play tap from the big dog can cause problems for the small dog. The Pug owner later told me that she wasn’t going to allow such play anymore because it was too risky. In fact, in most enclosed dog parks, there is a separate play area for small dogs.
In general, when I am getting a new dog, I look for one that is not too far away in terms of size, and has a temperament that will fit well with my existing dogs, with my environment, and with the entire family’s lifestyle. In this way, I set everyone up for success, and the integration process will go more smoothly.
Hi! I have a Yorkie and have had her for about 6 years. I am eyeing this husky at my local shelter that I like very much, but my Yorkie does not get along great with other dogs. She doesn’t bark or bite or anything, she just gets scared and runs off. I don’t know if she will get along with a much larger dog coming into the home, plus it’s a male. I wanted to know what way you think would be good for introducing a small dog, to a much larger and stronger dog?
My Huskies like wrestling and playing rough. Smaller dogs generally get overwhelmed, and are not a good match. It will be worse for a fearful small dog. Huskies also have strong prey drive and may go after small dogs.
My Shiba is a bit smaller (he is around 32 pounds whereas my Huskies are around 40-45 pounds) but he has the same love of wrestling and he is extremely bold. What he lacks in size he makes up for in boldness and quickness. I also supervise all play sessions, set up clear play rules, and manage the excitement level of all my dogs by using play-breaks.
When I picked a second dog, I made sure to set my existing dog up for success by picking a companion that fit in well with his temperament, size, play-style, etc. I talk more about what I did in the article above.
Hi there 🙂
How have you been? So my husband has finally “allowed” to get another dog. We originally were going to get a Husky but out current home is a little small so we’re getting another Shiba Inu, a female. Do you have any tips for introducing them? Samurai is EXTREMELY possessive over me which is one of the main reasons we wanted to get another dog so he wouldn’t be seen as the ONLY one in the house plus IF we were to have children… we need him to decrease his possessive behaviour. He’s honestly not that bad and once he’s gotten used to another dog… he’s lovely. It’s all just training which I understand but any tips would be greatly appreciated 🙂
Hope you’re all well. Hugs to Shania and Sephy.
Frances & Samurai xo
P.S – the puppy’s name will be Katana 🙂
Hello Frances! So good to hear from you.
We have all been doing well. Just finished with the first round of vet visits, so it is good. 🙂
In terms of introducing a new dog, what has helped me most is to set up clear and consistent dog-to-dog interaction rules right from the start. Some of my rules include – no stealing, no humping, no bullying. I supervise all interactions closely at the start, and teach everyone what the rules are. In this way, each dog knows what to expect from the others, what to expect from me, and what I expect from him in return. Rules and consistency help to create certainty, and certainty helps to reduce stress and conflicts.
During the beginning training period, I put a light lead on my puppy so that I can easily control her and have her close to me. Sephy warmed to my second dog right away, but the third dog, it took him some time to get used to. Therefore, I make sure that my new puppy does not bother Sephy when he doesn’t want to be bothered, wants to sleep, etc.
Sephy is really not possessive over people at all, but my Huskies can be because they actually enjoy people affection. 😀 Therefore, I set up clear rules there to. I let them know where I want them to do a Down (so they are not too close to each other), and I reward well with calm-attention, affection, and food when they stay down and are calm. If they start getting pushy, I no-mark, and direct them back into a Down position.
In general, I want to manage the new dog well so that I not only maximize positive and successful interactions, but also minimize conflicts. I try to manage and prevent before anything escalates. I am usually more strict with my puppy in the beginning, and have more rules. As she learns and matures, I start giving her more freedom as appropriate.
More on what I do when introducing a new dog.
Hope this helps. Big hugs to Sammi! And definitely give Katana lots of hugs from me when you get her. Great name and looking forward to seeing her pictures on FB! 😀
Hi Shibashake,
I currently have a female siberian husky that is almost 3 and wanted to rescue a 2 yr old male about the same size and temperament as her but was unsure if I would have issues with constant humping and lowering that standard of life for my current girl?
Thank you!
Is your female spayed and is the male neutered? What kind of temperament do the dogs have? Have they met? How do they seem with each other?
My female Husky will sometimes try to hump as well during play, so it is not a male-only behavior.
The most important thing with my dogs is to supervise them well during play and to set up clear dog-to-dog interaction rules. For example, there is no stealing and no humping. If any dog tries to hump, I stop play temporarily. Then, we do some obedience commands so that they refocus on me, and have a chance to calm down. Once they are calm, I let them go back to playing.
If the same dog tries to start humping again, then I end the play-session. If the same dog continues to try to hump, I put him in a time-out area temporarily.
In this way, my dogs learn that-
Humping = Play stops,
More humping = Play ends,
Even more humping = Temporarily lose freedom in the house, however
No humping and following rules = Play continues, get rewards, and more.
I am very consistent about humping behavior. As soon as I see my dog starting to make moves in that direction, I stop it. In this way, the behavior is very unrewarding, so it is not something that they try very often.
I also set my dogs up for success by managing their excitement level and throwing in many play-breaks.
More on what I do to help my dogs get along.
I Need couseling PLEASE !!! I have a very playfull and very social nice temperament goldendoodle. She really wants to play so much. She is 38 lb and 1 yr 4 mths old . i want to get a second dog, for her to play with and for my kids (my actual dog is much more bound to me than to ky kids) . it will be better to rescue an adult one from the shelter or to buy a puppy from the breeder? are all puppies playfull? will a puppy learn to play with her in “her way”? will they match better?
A dog’s temperament is going to be partially based on nature (genetics) and partially based on nurture (upbringing). We have more influence on a puppy because we have a bigger impact on his upbringing, however the genetics will also matter. This is why it is important to get a well-bred puppy. Breed characteristics will naturally also play a big role, and affect energy, play-style, etc.
The nice thing about adopting an adult dog is that his temperament is more formed, and we can see what his play-style is like, etc. When my Shiba was young, we did a lot of training and socialization at our local SPCA. In this way, I could see the type of dogs that he got along with, what play-style they have, temperament, etc.
A puppy is going to be a lot more work, and how he develops will depend a lot on us and how much time we put into his training, socialization, and more.
This article compares the pros and cons of puppy, adult, and senior dogs-
http://www.austinhumanesociety.org/article/should-i-adopt-puppy-adult-or-senior-dog