Dog psychology tries to understand bad dog behavior from a canine perspective rather than from a human perspective.
Because dogs are such close companions to us, it is easy to humanize them. Many dog movies and television shows including Lassie, 101 Dalmatians, Lady and the Tramp, Bolt, and others have encouraged this view.
However, dogs are not humans, and humans are not dogs.
Humanizing a dog causes miscommunication between human and canine, which can result in a variety of dog behavioral issues.
For example, many dog owners attribute their dog pooping on their favorite carpet or eating poop, when they are not home, as an act of vengeance. In actuality, it is just a symptom of stress from having an unexpected change in their routine (separation anxiety).
Dog Psychology vs. Dog Training
Some trainers claim that dog psychology involves pack theory and acting like a dog. According to them, obedience training is not dog psychology but simply teaching a dog tricks.
In particular, a dog who has undergone obedience training may understand training commands such as Sit, Down, and Heel, but may still engage in destructive and aggressive behaviors, such as chewing our designer shoes, or digging up our prize roses.
Is this true?
- Is there a big difference between dog psychology and dog obedience training?
- What about dog behavior modification?
- How do dogs really learn?
In fact, this separation of terms is unnecessary and only creates confusion.
Dog behavior modification, dog training, and dog tricks are ALL based on operant conditioning.
Operant conditioning forms a big part of what we understand of dog psychology and animal psychology. Therefore, dog behavior modification, dog training, and dog tricks are ALL based on dog psychology.
Based on these dog psychology principles, we know that dogs learn by repeating behaviors with good results, and stopping behaviors with bad results.
Operant conditioning consists of aversive methods and reward methods. Both aversive and reward methods, can be used to modify dog behavior, train a dog to follow commands, and teach a dog new tricks.
Misunderstanding of Dog Psychology
- The claim that dog obedience training, and dog tricks are somehow not based on dog psychology is false.
- The claim that food only works for obedience training and dog tricks is false.
- The claim that using food in dog training is bribery, and somehow ineffective is false.
- The claim that using food is humanizing the dog and therefore inappropriate is false.
- The claim that reward dog training is only based on food is false.
- The claim that aversive dog training, particularly physical force training is more effective at behavior modification than reward training is false.
- The claim that physical force is required to modify dog behavior is false.
- The claim that physical force is an integral part of dog psychology is false.
Both aversive and reward techniques, can be used to “train” our dog to sit on command, to sit instead of dig on command, to drop whatever he is chewing, to chew his toy instead of our shoes, and to dig in the sand pit instead of in the rose-bed.
The divide between dog psychology, dog behavior modification, and dog training simply does not exist.
Many of these supposed behavior modification techniques, including leash jerks, alpha rolls, and finger pokes, are aversive conditioning techniques.
Dog Psychology and Dominance/Pack Theory
Dominance theory is based on the observation that wolf packs and wild dog packs are ruled by an alpha male and an alpha female. This alpha pair controls all of the pack’s resources and sets all of the pack rules. There are also rituals that pack members must follow including letting the alpha pair have access to the best food,best sleeping area, and best resources.
The theory is that when dogs come to live with us, we become part of their pack and must assume the alpha male and alpha female positions. Part of assuming this position, is to follow similar pack rituals including eating before our followers, not letting our followers have access to beds and couches, always walking in front of our followers, and using physical force to establish and maintain our pack leadership position.
However, recent studies have shown that wolf packs and also wild dog packs are a lot more complex than this simple alpha-pair model. Leadership tends to be more dynamic in nature, and the alpha dogs rule through the control of resources rather than through physical force.
Therefore, even dominance theory cannot be used to support the false claim that physical force is a necessary, or even an effective part of dog behavior modification.
While dominance theory and dog pack dynamics are interesting areas of study, the argument of whether they apply to us and our domesticated dogs, is actually a moot point.
Just as dogs are not humans, humans are not dogs.
Contrary to common belief, dogs know that they are dogs and not human. They also know that we are human and not dogs. It is us humans who frequently get confused on these matters.
Since we are human, we are not expected by our dogs to act like dogs. We must communicate with them in a way that they can understand, but that does not mean that we should try to act like them. Not only would we be poor imitators, but however well we pretend, we would still be human, and our dogs will always know what we are.
Because our dogs live in our very complex human world, it is necessary for us to assume leadership and teach them our rules. We must provide for them not just in terms of food and shelter, but also in terms of their health and safety.
To properly manage the safety of a dog (to himself, to other dogs, and to the people around him) it is necessary to institute certain human rules, and to train him to follow those rules. Training of these rules can be achieved through aversive methods or reward methods.
It is as simple as that. No dominance theory required.
Dog Behaviorist vs. Dog Trainer
By using operant conditioning techniques, we can shape behavior to prepare our dog for obedience trials, or agility competitions. We can also modify behavior to make our dog into a good citizen at home.
A good dog trainer or dog behaviorist is someone who –
- Understands classical and operant conditioning theories,
- Has good technique (i.e. good timing, execution, redirection);
- Can quickly and accurately read a dog’s body language; and
- Is a good and patient teacher.
There are dog trainers, like Cesar Millan, who mostly use aversive training. There are dog trainers, like Victoria Stillwell, who mostly use reward training. And there are dog trainers who use both.
Reward dog training and aversive dog training have their own advantages and disadvantages, so make sure to pick a dog trainer that uses the style of training or behavior modification that you feel is most appropriate for you and your dog.
The Association of Pet Dog Trainers is a great resource for finding professional dog training help in your area.
Which is Better, Which is Right, and Which is Dog Psychology?
Many arguments arise in the dog behavior modification or dog training arena because many want to claim that their way is better or that their way is right.
To do this, they must first differentiate their way from all other ways. That is why there are so many terms, including dog psychology, dog behavior modification, dog training, dog tricks, and many more, describing essentially the same thing.
Moral judgements such as dog cruelty, dog bribery, evilness and goodness get thrown into the same pot and what results is a whole lot of smoke and not much else.
When we boil dog training or dog behavior modification down to its basics, we are always left with conditioning. And all of us use either aversive operant conditioning methods or reward operant conditioning methods to shape our dog’s behavior.
Both are dog psychology. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages.
I cannot say that one is absolutely better than the other, or that one is absolutely right. I can only say that I personally use reward dog training because it is more effective and less risky than the aversive methods I have tried.
Hi I have the nicest pomeranian but when left at home alone he will pee on the sofa or anywhere possible. He is fully potty trained pees n poos on the pad but when alone he will almost 90% of the time pee anywhere in his reach. I am even willing to pay for professional help for my little guy. What do you think?
How old is he? Has he always shown this behavior? What kind of training is he used to? What does he do when you leave the room? Does he follow you? How does he act when he is alone in a room but you are still in the house?
What you describe could be separation anxiety, but it is difficult to say without more details. To help my dog with separation anxiety I do desensitization and counter-conditioning exercises. I start with very short periods of alone time (seconds), and pair it with calm and positive events. As my dog gains confidence, I slowly build up the alone-time.
Panic attacks and negative alone time will undermine that confidence, significantly set back retraining, and worsen his anxiety symptoms. Therefore, a very important part of retraining my dog is to set him up for success and not expose him to situations he is not ready for. If I need to leave him for longer periods, I get someone that he trusts to be with him.
This ASPCA article has more on separation anxiety and desensitization exercises.
More on how I deal with separation anxiety.
However, the first thing I would do is try to identify the cause of his behavior, whether it is from separation anxiety or something else. This is where a good professional trainer can be helpful.
https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/finding-professional-help
Need help! I’ve had two male dogs for 10 years — a miniature poodle and a cocker spaniel with mutt. We just had to take in my elderly mothers 5 year old male which is a mix of Havanese, Shitzu, and Coton. My dogs are potty trained to bark at back door and go outside. Never an accident. Now that this other dog is in the home, he is pooing and peeing in our house and the miniature poodle is too! I put the Havenese outside every two hours to potty, and he comes in and potty’s inside. What do I do? I”m at my wits end! Thank you.
Was your mother’s dog potty trained before? There are also other causes for pooping and peeing in the house including physical issues, stress, etc.
More on how I potty train my dog.
Hey man,what should I do or how should I control myself and my dog when walking across a pack of ( try to imagine the worst for the best) aggressive dogs ???
Where are these aggressive dogs? How many? Are they loose? Are they strays?
If there are stray dogs in my neighborhood, I call Animal Care and Control. If that is not possible, then I drive my dog to a good and quiet location, where we can walk safely.
I have two year old rescue.. I have had him for over a year and a half. He was ferral hhen rescuef and completely traumatized and shut down when I adopted him. I have workied very dilligently with him and he is a happy member of our family. The only problem now is that he seeks out and chews my shoes. Only my shoes and of course the best ones. I am sensitive to his past ( he is very compliant), so disciplining him is a struggle for me. Any suggestions?
When does your dog chew on shoes? Is it mostly when he is home alone or when you are busy? What is your dog’s daily routine like?
My youngest Husky, Lara, would also chew on shoes when home alone. When stressed or anxious, a dog may chew as a displacement behavior to help relieve their stress. Sometimes, Lara may chew on shoes when I am upstairs and she is downstairs, and she is bored or a bit anxious. Shoes are a favorite, because they smell very strongly of us, which I imagine makes Lara feel like I am close by.
To change this behavior with Lara, I first try to identify the source of the behavior, e.g. is it from boredom, separation anxiety, or something else? If it is boredom, then I try to exercise her more and engage her in more activities during the day. If it is separation anxiety, I slowly desensitize her to alone time.
For playful chewing, I can also teach her the “Leave-It” command to leave my shoes alone. For this to be effective, I need to be there to supervise and catch her in the act. Usually, I redirect Lara onto something else that she can chew on, for example a safe toy. If she redirects, I play a very fun game with her using the toy. In this way, she learns that chewing on a toy is much more rewarding. I try to handle the toy a bunch so that it also starts to smell like me. We also have old blankets around that Lara loves to burrow into, because it also smells like her people.
When I am not home, I keep my shoes in the closet and close the door. Chewing on shoes can be a self reinforcing behavior because it helps to relieve stress, can be fun, and can make our dog feel closer to us because of the smell. Therefore, I want to not only provide my dog with alternative activities that can help with all of these things, but also minimize unsupervised shoe chewing events. The more Lara chews on shoes unsupervised, the more she gets reinforced for that behavior, and the more likely she is to repeat it in the future.
More on how I change my dog’s behavior.
Thank you. It is desperation anxiety. I will use the techniques you suggested and let you know how we progress.
Again thank you.
Sincerely,
AUDY
This article from the ASPCA has more on separation anxiety and how to do systematic desensitization exercises-
http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/dog-behavior/separation-anxiety
Scold the shoe. Dead serious. Take your dog into the room where the shoes live. Then ignore your dog and focus all your attention on the dog’s favorite pair of shoes and the yell at those shoes. Act like the shoes have been bad and are in big trouble for getting chewed. Don’t look back at your dog to see if it’s watching, you’re yelling at shoes like an insane person, your dog is definitely watching. And don’t do this for too long either, just do it for as long as you’d yell at the dog. For me that’s like a minute, tops.
What seems to happen is the dog sees you coming down hard on them shoes and the shoes become like, taboo or something, and the dog doesn’t want nothin to do with it ever again. I heard of this trick a very long time ago from a stranger at a dog park and it sounded insane and kind of funny so of course I tried it. And I’ll be damned if it wasn’t immediately effective. I’ve used it on dozens of dogs since then and for me the success rate has been like 80%. It also seems like it’s either extremely effective or doesn’t work at all. Like there’s no in between.
There’s also limit to how many times it can be used effectively with any given dog. And for some dogs that number is 1 so make sure whatever you use the trick on first is the most important thing. If digging in the garden is worse for you than chewing shoes then start with the garden.
Disclaimer: I have absolutely no idea how or why this works and it definitely won’t address any underlying issues that may or may not be causing the bad behavior. It’s just a weird way to trick your dog into leaving something alone, that’s all.
Hi I live in Colorado, and have 3 dogs now, I have had as high as 8 dogs in my pack. My 3 right now are 2 Alaskan Malamutes and one GSD. When I first got the GSD I had another Malamute that is now gone, She is a very good dog, I believe that she was being trained for search and rescue or may some drugs search. She has this thing that we do every night for her biscute bones (I call them Enobs, bones spelled backwards). I hide it and she has to go find it. When she finds it she will sit and bark for it. I think the reason that is now with me instead of the rescue work is because she has trouble with load noises. The two Malamutes when I got them were from rescue too. I had to set down rules for them. As you say NILis free. They had to learn what the rules were in the. The male thinks that he is the boss so he attacked the GSD but has found out that was not a good thing to. He now knows that he is not the boss but I am. It only took one time for him to learn that. The GSD is bigger then he is and she was on top of him then I was on top of both of them. I consider the GSD as a Beta dog because now she looks after them like they were her pups. They were 18 months when I got them. With no training at all. It just takes training and Consistiantly and patence in training and doing it the same way each time. Yes I agree with you and I do not have problems but just wanted to share with you. I have about 18 dogs in my life time. I also have had Huskies and all breeds of dogs even small dogs. I could tell you more stories of my experices with dogs. Even when I worked for Animal control in CA. working as a licence inspector. Will I will close for now. Sandy.
Hi l have an Australian terrier / Boarder collie called Ted(the flying wombat).We have an open door for him to go outside but quite often he will tap the window next to if for up to 1-2 minutes then go outside any ideas why?
Have you always had an open door? How long have you had him? Has he always shown this behavior?
If he had to tap on the door/window in the past to be let out, it may have become part of his going out routine.
I have some questions for you about dog behavior towards me. Most of the dogs I have run into act very friendly to me. I have had one dog , a beautiful big bulldog, stand up against my leg like he was protecting me. He had never met me before. I only see my sister’s dog only once a year. She is a husky named Athena. When I and Athena’s owners sit at the same kitchen table, she will come and lie at my feet and under the chair I’m sitting in. I don’t know why dogs act so friendly to me when I am a stranger. I don’t own any pets. Can you tell me why they react that way? I am friendly in my actions to them. and offer my hand to them first so they can sniff me. I am careful around dogs that are unfriendly. Please give me an email answer.
I have a Maltese, he is 3 years old. My hudband and I drive a truck. At night he starts backing up on top of us(whoever is sleeping). He does this till he reaches your head. If you hit a bump he really gets nervous. My vet says there is nothing physically wrong with him. But we are afraid this isn’t good for him. He doesn’t do this when the truck is parked only when we have to run thru the night. Please help
Does he only show this behavior at night? When the truck is moving during the day, does he show any signs of stress? If nobody is sleeping, does he also show this behavior? Has he always been this way, or did this behavior only start recently? When did it start? Were there any changes to his routine, or anything else when the behavior started?
Dog behavior is very context dependent. When there are big changes in my dog’s behavior, I first try to identify what exactly is triggering the behavior. Then I can try to slowly desensitize my dog to those triggers.
More on dog anxiety.
I have a Brussels Griffon, who insists on barking a lot. We have tried several different words, and tech but nothing works. We have used treats, but some how we are failing my baby (4 y/o) lol. Can you help me ???
What triggers his barking? What is his regular daily routine?
Changing my dog’s behavior depends a lot on the surrounding context and the source of his barking (e.g. fear, stress, warning, etc.). Putting the behavior under command control helps with my dog.
http://shibashake.com/dog/woof-woof-stop-dog-barking#quiet
Dogs do not understand our language, so we want to teach them what certain gestures and verbal commands mean through positive reinforcement. As with all other training, I do it in a managed and structured environment, where I am in control of what noises and triggers my dog is exposed to.
I have a 10 yr old dalmatian that came to live with me 8 yrs ago after my friend died from cancer. She is a rescue and was abused very early in life but to what extent we will never know. While she has always been neurotic and extremely needy in the last 4 to 5 months it has gotten much worse. Her latest issue is after being outside and peeing in the yard she will oome in the house and get on the couch or chair and poop there. There has never been a problem in the past she has always gone outside until recently. This mostly seems to occur when of course I am getting ready to leave the house. I now physically take her outside myself on a leash (yard is fenced) and walk around the yard with her so that she will go but it does not seem to matter if I am there or not. I used to take her to the park on a regular basis but she now has arthritis and can’t walk the distances she used to. I also get up at least twice during the night to take her out to help with this problem but that does not seem to matter either. She gets my undivided attention because it is just us and the cat so it is not like she is ignored and I am home most of the time. I am at my witts end.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hmmm, could it be canine incontinence?
http://www.spca.org/document.doc?id=105
What type of medicine does your dog take for the arthritis? What are the side effects? Have you tried some canned pumpkin (1 tablespoon a day) mixed in her food? I had a dog ( Collie/Husky ) that had seizures. Our vet doubled the dose of medicine for him (Lucky). Lucky started peeing in the house. The vet wanted me to get a urine sample holding a pie tin when he peed. I thought it was a goofy idea so I did not do it. Instead I stopped giving him the double dose of medicine and he stopped peeing in the house. Medicines can have all kinds of side effects in pets as well as humans. It is just a thought. Sharon
In my opinion this is separation anxiety,your dog is reacting to your routine when you are getting ready to go out,he knows what’s next and he doesn’t like it,if he is used to going places with you and now can’t,he isn’t tii used to being alone and really isn’t happy about it. Desensitise him to being alone,let him know it’s ok and build up to a gradual time he can be left.