• by shibashake

    I made many dog training mistakes with Shiba Inu Sephy. Dog training is often counter-intuitive, and following our instincts, may often not be the right thing to do.

    My Dog Training Mistakes.

    My Dog Training Mistakes.

    The good news is – If we are willing to learn, and put our own egos on hold, things will get a lot better – for everyone. Before too long, we will be wondering exactly when our rascally little scamp turned into the super-dog that he is today.

    More good news – Once we understand the underlying mechanics of what dog training truly is, it will no longer seem like magic. We can apply our knowledge to future dogs, who will become super-dogs almost right from the start.

    I still made some mistakes with Siberian Husky Shania, but much fewer than Sephy.

    Yet more good news – Dogs are resilient and even if we made some mistakes in the beginning, a dog’s bad behaviors can be retrained. If we are willing, and are open to learning, we can turn things around for our dogs and ourselves.

    Here are some of the common dog training mistakes I made, why I made them, and what I should have done instead.

    Dogs are resilient and even if we made some mistakes in the beginning, a dog’s bad behaviors can be retrained.

    Dogs are resilient and even if we made some mistakes in the beginning, a dog’s bad behaviors can be retrained.

    1. Using my dog’s name when he misbehaved

    Good dog Sephy.

    Good dog Sephy.

    Bad dog Butros!

    Bad dog Butros!

    Whenever I got angry or frustrated at Shiba Sephy and wanted to correct him for one of his misdeeds, I said Sephy Stop! or Sephy No!.

    It is natural for us to do this, because that is how we communicate with other people. We – tend to be very verbal. We rely heavily on verbal names, use tone, volume, and verbal repetition to transfer information.

    However, dogs communicate very differently. Verbal cues are less important to them. They identify people and other dogs more by scent than by name.

    With training, we can teach a dog to associate certain verbal cues with commands and consequences, but it does not come naturally to them. For example we may say “Good Dog” every time before treating our dog. In this way, our dogs learn that “Good dog” means a treat is about to come soon.

    Similarly, if we constantly use a dog’s name while correcting him, he may start to associate that name (verbal cue) to feelings of anger and frustration from us. He may also associate his name to being punished, or feeling pain.

    Because of this, the next time he hears “his name” he will likely run away rather than come to us.

    I have read some articles by dog trainers who say it is silly not to use a dog’s name while correcting him. They say that not calling the dog by name because you are afraid of hurting his feelings is simply ridiculous.

    And they are right – it would be ridiculous if that were the reason.

    However, the reason is not because of hurt feelings but because of conditioning, which underlies most dog training and dog behavior techniques.

    To a dog, a name is just like any other verbal cue, e.g. Sit, Good, No. Using a dog’s name indiscriminately, like I did, caused confusion and frustration for Shiba Sephy because I was sending him mixed verbal cues.

    Now, Sephy has a good dog name and a bad dog name. The good dog name – Sephy – is just like Good, and marks a good behavior. The bad dog name – Butros – is just like No, and marks an unacceptable behavior.

    In every dog there is a Good Sephy and a Bad Butros.

    In every dog there is a Good Sephy and a Bad Butros.

    2. Adding *too* much and focusing on short-term results

    It is a lot more intuitive for us to add something than to take something away.

    When Sephy did something good, my first reaction is to reward him.

    When Sephy did something good, my first reaction is to reward him.

    When Sephy did something good, my first reaction is to reward him (add a reward stimulus). When Sephy misbehaved, my first reaction is to punish him verbally or physically (add an aversive stimulus).

    Dogs *do* respond to the addition of a stimulus, but they also respond to the removal of a stimulus.

    For example, to stop a bad dog behavior, I can either add a negative verbal or physical stimulus (e.g. leash correction), or I can remove an existing reward. Both actions will result in a negative consequence for the dog, which will help him learn to curb that behavior.

    When I was having troubles with Shiba Sephy, I read up a lot on dog training and one of the most common questions I came across was -

    I can understand how you encourage behaviors with food, but how do you stop a dog from acting badly?

    If Sephy stays calmly in his bed, he gets rewarded with good stuff!

    If Sephy stays calmly in his bed, he gets rewarded with good stuff!

    You can stop a dog from acting badly by taking away one or more of his privileges.

    • If Sephy bites too hard on me or did not want to play according to my rules, I would just stop playing with him.
    • If Sephy chased me around and starting nipping at my feet, I would first take away his freedom by telling him to go to his bed. If he tries to sneak out of his bed, he gets put on a time-out.
    • If Sephy did not want me to brush his teeth, he would lose a yummy meal of boiled chicken, melted cheese, and bacon.
    • If Sephy started digging up my roses, he would have to come back into the house and lose his freedom to roam freely in the backyard.
    • If Sephy started leash-biting when out on a walk with me, I would march him quickly home, thus ending the nice and fun neighborhood walk.
    Will brush teeth for chicken.

    Will brush teeth for chicken.

    When I first started my journey with Shiba Sephy, I mainly focused on dog training techniques that brought me quick, but it turns out, short-term results. Applying pain as punishment, for example, usually brings quick results. Pain is a strong stimulus and most dogs will react strongly to it.

    Some dogs stop performing the unsanctioned behavior because they want to avoid the pain and stress at all costs. Other dogs may figure out new strategies to avoid the associated pain. For example, they may only do it when you are not there, or they may escape from the house and do it elsewhere. Some stubborn dogs like Shiba Sephy may just endure the pain, because they are that much of a rebel! :cool:

    One important lesson I learned through my trials and tribulations with Sephy is not to add too much into the dog training process.

    Don’t use a bite when a Shiba scream will do the trick!
    ~~[Shiba Sephy]

    Use the safest and least risky techniques as much as you can and only consider the more risky techniques when absolutely all else has failed.

    Recently, I visited several dog training sites that advocated the use of remote collars (shock collars) on puppies. Indeed there have been a lot of emotional discussions over remote collars. Most remote collar advocates object to using the term shock collar, and even call them gentle training collars, because they say it only delivers a gentle current.

    Whatever terms are used, I find that it is best not to sugar-coat dog training equipment and dog training techniques. Only by looking at something truthfully and objectively, can we make the best decisions for our dogs. In terms of remote collars, scientific studies by Polsky et al and Schalke et al. show that they are risky, because they can cause extreme stress in dogs, that can further lead to aggression.

    This is not to say that remote collar training will never work or that dogs will totally lose all capacity to enjoy themselves once they have worn a remote collar. But that is not the point. The more relevant question is –

    Why use a remote collar when you can get similar results with safer and less risky techniques?

    Using non-pain oriented techniques may not bring the quickest results, but they produce much better long term results; including a higher quality of life for the dog. After switching away from aversive techniques, Shiba Sephy has become a happier, less stressed, and more trusting dog.

    After switching away from aversive techniques, Shiba Sephy has become a happier, less stressed, and more trusting dog.

    After switching away from aversive techniques, Shiba Sephy has become a happier, less stressed, and more trusting dog.

    3. Putting my own ego ahead of my dog’s well-being

    When I first got Sephy, I was very disappointed in him. He was a very excitable dog, he was extremely stubborn, he would sometimes use aggression, and he was not very interested in obeying commands. In puppy class, he was not the worst behaved, but neither was he an A-student – far from it.

    Definitely not an A-student.

    Definitely not an A-student.

    Often, I would get very angry and frustrated with him because it seemed I was doing all the training steps and practicing a lot at home, and yet his performance in class would be so-so at best.

    At home, he would be a holy terror. He would run around like crazy, chew at everything except his toys, hump my leg, bite my hands and arms, and do exactly all the things that he is not supposed to do.

    On walks he would leash bite, Shiba scream, do alligator rolls, jump on people, bite on people, lunge at other dogs and do exactly all the things that he is not supposed to do.

    I was constantly embarrassed by Sephy, and my neighbors would give me this “I feel so sorry for you” look and offer all kinds of random advice.

    After a few horrible months of feeling like a failure, I asked myself this question -

    Was I doing all this for me, or for Sephy?

    I realized that I was more interested in looking good to my neighbors and looking good in class rather than trying to do what was best for Sephy. It was not so much that I was disappointed in Sephy for not being an A-student, but rather that I blamed him for spoiling my own A-student grade at dog training.

    I realized that I was more interested in looking good to my neighbors and looking good in class rather than trying to do what was best for Sephy.

    I realized that I was more interested in looking good to my neighbors and looking good in class rather than trying to do what was best for Sephy.

    Because I was so wrapped up in my own ego, I would doggedly stick to what I was doing and not listen to alternative points of view. I did not seek out new information, and most important of all I did not listen to Sephy.

    I suppose it is human to believe that the World should always revolve around us, but once I let go of this false trail of self-absorption things got a lot better.

    For the first time, I truly tried to listen to Sephy, and did my best to give him a good quality of life. I stopped interpreting everything Sephy did through my own self-importance filter. I started to do a lot more research into various training methods, and objectively viewing their pros and cons.

    This is not about who is the most right, who is the most clever, who has the perfect Stepford dog, or about us at all. This is about how we can work together to make life better for our own dogs and for the dogs around us.

    There still has to be rules and discipline, but nowadays, I only exercise control when it is necessary for my dog’s safety. Being human, it probably still matters to me what others think, but truly – my dogs matter a lot more!

    Being human, it probably still matters to me what others think, but truly - my dogs matter a lot more!

    Being human, it probably still matters to me what others think, but truly - my dogs matter a lot more!

    by shibashake

    Operant conditioning does not mean reward training.

    Operant conditioning actually encapsulates both reward and aversive training. In its simplest form, operant conditioning says that to shape a dog’s behavior, we can either add or take away a reward stimulus (positive reinforcement, negative punishment); or we can add or take away an aversive stimulus (positive punishment, negative reinforcement).

    Operant conditioning in itself is not pro-reward stimulus or aversive stimulus.

    However, it is interesting to note that B.F. Skinner, who developed many of the operant conditioning principles, has expressed that reward stimulus is the preferable form of control.

    When someone says “operant conditioning” trainer, it actually refers to all dog trainers because every trainer uses some form of operant conditioning techniques to shape a dog’s behavior.

    Included in the operant conditioning framework are studies on timing, frequency, and schedules of reinforcement.

    For example, operant conditioning studies tell us that a variable schedule of reinforcement is more effective than a fixed schedule of reinforcement. I.e. rewarding our dogs intermittently for behaviors is more effective than rewarding our dogs every time, or every other time.

    Similarly, if you over-correct a dog, he will quickly get habituated to your corrections, and may no longer respond to future corrections.

    Operant conditioning is based on many years of study, by scientists and psychologists.

    It provides us with a useful framework to not only shape the behavior of dogs, but also that of all animals.

    When someone says that reward training does not work, or that aversive training does not work, it goes against all the scientific evidence that we have.

    Both reward and aversive techniques can be used to shape animal behavior.

    This includes getting your dog to perform good behaviors (e.g. Sit, Down) as well as stopping your dog from performing bad behaviors.

    Personally, I use reward techniques almost exclusively with my own dogs because it is less risky, and the effects of making training mistakes are less serious.

    When looking for a dog trainer, make sure to find one that understands the basic principles of operant conditioning and classical conditioning.

    These two processes underlie much of what goes into dog training, and someone who understands these behavioral psychology principles will be in a better position to understand, guide, and shape your dog’s behavior.

    by shibashake

    Dogs are dogs, and they are not human.

    This is a true statement.

    According to Wikipedia,

    Currently, the domestic dog is listed as a subspecies of Canis lupus, C. l. familiaris.

    We humans are not part of that evolutionary tree, so it is true that dogs are not human. However, there is a tendency on our parts to humanize our dogs anyway. We often overlay human feelings and human morality onto our dogs’ actions.

    Bad Max pooped on my carpet because he was trying to get back at me for leaving him alone.

    Sam dug up my roses and chewed up my designer shoes because he does not love me anymore.


    Dogs are not human!

    Dogs are not human!

    Humanizing our dogs can end up hurting our dogs, and ourselves, because we end up not seeing the root cause of their behaviors.

    Max probably pooped on the carpet because of anxiety.

    Sam likely dug up the roses and chewed on shoes because he was bored and nobody else provided alternate activities for him.

    However, “dogs are not human” is not some magical line that can be used to dismiss our responsibilities to our dogs.

    1. Grooming and Basic Care

    The other day, I read an article where the author proudly proclaimed that “dogs are not human” and therefore there is no need to brush their teeth or take them to the vet for ‘little things’.

    One has nothing to do with the other.

    Dogs need a certain amount of basic care.

    Dog grooming, including nail clipping and teeth brushing will help to improve the general health of the dog, give him a higher quality of life, as well as hopefully a longer life. There are also teeth cleaning toys available in lieu of teeth brushing.

    As for vet visits, there are some things that can be treated at home, but there are other things that require medical attention. There are a variety of books written by qualified veterinarians describing symptoms that are treatable from home and those that require veterinary attention.

    Anything that involves bloody discharge usually means that a vet visit is necessary, sooner rather than later.

    Yearly vet visits are also necessary for shots against dog diseases (e.g. Parvo, Rabies) and sometimes for teeth cleaning.

    But dogs are not human. In the wild they would not have a vet.

    True, and dogs have shorter lifespans in the wild.

    They also do not have to deal with overcrowding, synthetic materials, cars, or live in the backyard all day with nothing to do. If dogs should be wild, then leave them in the wild and get a fish for a pet.

    Or perhaps a virtual dog.

    2. Affection

    Another popular area where this “dogs are not human” line often gets trotted out is in giving affection or even food rewards to our dogs. Apparently, because dogs are not human, it is somehow wrong to give them human affection.

    In truth, much of this affection-giving is more for us, than for our dogs. Giving affection to our dogs makes us feel better, and helps to lower stress.

    There is nothing wrong with giving affection, attention, or food rewards to dogs, as long as it is done with the right timing to reinforce good behaviors.

    Some of us run into problems because we reward or give affection at the wrong time, and as a result the wrong behavior gets reinforced.

    Timing is one of the most important components in dog training and in shaping a dog’s behavior. If you discipline or punish your dog at the wrong time, you will also inadvertently encourage bad behaviors.

    In fact, this University of Pennsylvania study shows that aversive methods have a higher probability of encouraging aggression in dogs compared to reward techniques.

    3. Physical Aversive Training

    Dogs are not human” is also often used as a reason for why physical aversive training is more effective than other types of training.

    In particular, since dogs are not human, we should try to be like dogs and bite them, slap them, pin them to the ground, and growl at them.

    Just as dogs are not humans, humans are not dogs.

    However hard we may try, we will never be dogs, and our dogs will always be aware of this plain fact.

    Both reward and aversive techniques come from the field of behavioral psychology, and behavioral psychology techniques can and has been applied to both humans and dogs.

    For example, if you look-up desensitization and flooding, you will see that they have been applied, and are still applied to help both dogs and humans cope with phobias and stress.

    It may be true that “dogs are not humans”, but that statement has nothing to do with the behavioral psychology techniques that we apply to train dogs and shape behavior.

    Dogs are not human, but that does not mean they respond better to aversive stimuli.

    One does not follow from the other – they are two separate statements that have no relation to one another.

    Yes, dogs are not human.

    All that means is we should try and understand their behavior, without any human moral overlay. 

    We should learn to communicate with them, so that they understand us, and we understand them. By doing this, both dog and human can share a strong, happy, and lasting bond.

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