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	<title>Comments on: Stop Food Aggression, Stop Resource Guarding</title>
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	<description>Dog Tips, Care &#38; Training</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 21 May 2012 23:44:20 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Tara</title>
		<link>http://shibashake.com/dog/stop-food-aggression-stop-resource-guarding#comment-27424</link>
		<dc:creator>Tara</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 May 2012 03:30:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://shibashake.com/dog/food-aggression-stop-food-guarding-stop-resource-guarding#comment-27424</guid>
		<description>Hi,
We have a six year old male Chesapeake Bay Retriever who has always shown food aggression and resource guarding. After reading many articles from your wonderful sight, I can&#039;t pinpoint why he does it. 
When we began training as a puppy, he did great with &quot;drop it&quot; and &quot;leave it&quot; and still does. We never had issues with needing to take things away from him. We had our first child (four children now) when he was about six months old. It was important to me to train him to leave baby toys alone and human food. He has never touched a baby toy and I&#039;m proud to say our children can walk around with plates of food at eye level, leave plates on the floor and walk away, drop something in front of him or holding it in their hand and he won&#039;t touch it unless he&#039;s given the ok!
Until reading your article, we have mostly always left his food bowl out. We were in the habit of setting it up if he decided to show aggression/guarding. In our previous home it was left in our kitchen and when we moved we decided to keep it in the laundry room downstairs, away from everyone, because of the problem. Not always, but quite frequently, he jumps up to guard his food if we&#039;re walking around. It seems to be more when we first put food in the bowl. Sometimes he&#039;ll growl pretty fiercely the closer we get. Everyone in our family can put food in his bowl, touch his food and hand feed him with no problems. We only take food out of the bowl to hand feed him. He also typically only eats if we&#039;re in the same room or just outside the room and he&#039;ll carry a mouthful to wherever we are to eat it.
Any suggestions? Thank you so much!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi,<br />
We have a six year old male Chesapeake Bay Retriever who has always shown food aggression and resource guarding. After reading many articles from your wonderful sight, I can&#8217;t pinpoint why he does it.<br />
When we began training as a puppy, he did great with &#8220;drop it&#8221; and &#8220;leave it&#8221; and still does. We never had issues with needing to take things away from him. We had our first child (four children now) when he was about six months old. It was important to me to train him to leave baby toys alone and human food. He has never touched a baby toy and I&#8217;m proud to say our children can walk around with plates of food at eye level, leave plates on the floor and walk away, drop something in front of him or holding it in their hand and he won&#8217;t touch it unless he&#8217;s given the ok!<br />
Until reading your article, we have mostly always left his food bowl out. We were in the habit of setting it up if he decided to show aggression/guarding. In our previous home it was left in our kitchen and when we moved we decided to keep it in the laundry room downstairs, away from everyone, because of the problem. Not always, but quite frequently, he jumps up to guard his food if we&#8217;re walking around. It seems to be more when we first put food in the bowl. Sometimes he&#8217;ll growl pretty fiercely the closer we get. Everyone in our family can put food in his bowl, touch his food and hand feed him with no problems. We only take food out of the bowl to hand feed him. He also typically only eats if we&#8217;re in the same room or just outside the room and he&#8217;ll carry a mouthful to wherever we are to eat it.<br />
Any suggestions? Thank you so much!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: shibashake</title>
		<link>http://shibashake.com/dog/stop-food-aggression-stop-resource-guarding#comment-25661</link>
		<dc:creator>shibashake</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Apr 2012 02:27:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://shibashake.com/dog/food-aggression-stop-food-guarding-stop-resource-guarding#comment-25661</guid>
		<description>Hello Julia,

Congratulations on your new adopted puppy!

&lt;blockquote&gt;I read that a dog awoken by touch may snap out of instinct&lt;/blockquote&gt;

Yeah, some dogs do that, especially when they are touched during a deep sleep. I have experienced that with my Shiba Inu. He was sleeping by my feet, and I accidentally woke him up. He air snapped because he thought he was under threat. I imagine that is where the saying &quot;Let sleeping dogs lie&quot; comes from.

Now, I usually get him to go to sleep in his own bed. He also has his own crate where he can go to when he does not want to be disturbed. In addition, I make sure he is aware of me before handling him, so that he is not startled awake. Handling desensitization exercises are also helpful with him. 
http://shibashake.com/dog/hug-dog-teach-your-dog-to-enjoy-hugging


&lt;blockquote&gt;I reached my hand in to grab it and again, without a growl or any warning she bite me hard enough to draw blood.&lt;/blockquote&gt;

That sounds like resource guarding. As described above, most dogs guard resources from people because they have learned to associate people coming or grabbing with the loss of their stuff. When they use aggression, people tend to back away, which reinforces the aggressive behavior. 
http://shibashake.com/dog/resource-guarding-shiba-inu

For a dog that is causing puncture wounds, it is best to contact a professional trainer. A good trainer can observe the dog in real time and read his body language accurately. In this way, he/she can identify what are the triggers that are causing the aggression, and how to best retrain the behavior.

With my own dogs, I try to teach them the following-
People coming near them and taking their stuff away = They get more stuff in return

- I teach them the Drop and Leave-It commands which helps me to communicate with them, and teaches them to give me objects willingly. 
http://shibashake.com/dog/stop-food-aggression-stop-resource-guarding#drop
http://thedoginc.com/dog-eating-poop#leave-it

- I play the object-exchange game with them so they learn that giving up an object, does not mean it is gone forever. In fact, they usually get it back with more stuff. I describe the object exchange game in the article above.

- I try to show them that they get the most resources by working and cooperating with me (&lt;a href=&quot;http://shibashake.com/dog/nothing-in-life-is-free-dog-training&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nothing in Life is Free program&lt;/a&gt;). I have rules, but I make sure I am consistent and fair with those rules.

- Most of all, I try to set them up for success and try not to place them in situations where they feel compelled to use aggression, to protect themselves or to protect their resources.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello Julia,</p>
<p>Congratulations on your new adopted puppy!</p>
<blockquote><p>I read that a dog awoken by touch may snap out of instinct</p></blockquote>
<p>Yeah, some dogs do that, especially when they are touched during a deep sleep. I have experienced that with my Shiba Inu. He was sleeping by my feet, and I accidentally woke him up. He air snapped because he thought he was under threat. I imagine that is where the saying &#8220;Let sleeping dogs lie&#8221; comes from.</p>
<p>Now, I usually get him to go to sleep in his own bed. He also has his own crate where he can go to when he does not want to be disturbed. In addition, I make sure he is aware of me before handling him, so that he is not startled awake. Handling desensitization exercises are also helpful with him.<br />
<a href="http://shibashake.com/dog/hug-dog-teach-your-dog-to-enjoy-hugging" rel="nofollow">http://shibashake.com/dog/hug-dog-teach-your-dog-to-enjoy-hugging</a></p>
<blockquote><p>I reached my hand in to grab it and again, without a growl or any warning she bite me hard enough to draw blood.</p></blockquote>
<p>That sounds like resource guarding. As described above, most dogs guard resources from people because they have learned to associate people coming or grabbing with the loss of their stuff. When they use aggression, people tend to back away, which reinforces the aggressive behavior.<br />
<a href="http://shibashake.com/dog/resource-guarding-shiba-inu" rel="nofollow">http://shibashake.com/dog/resource-guarding-shiba-inu</a></p>
<p>For a dog that is causing puncture wounds, it is best to contact a professional trainer. A good trainer can observe the dog in real time and read his body language accurately. In this way, he/she can identify what are the triggers that are causing the aggression, and how to best retrain the behavior.</p>
<p>With my own dogs, I try to teach them the following-<br />
People coming near them and taking their stuff away = They get more stuff in return</p>
<p>- I teach them the Drop and Leave-It commands which helps me to communicate with them, and teaches them to give me objects willingly.<br />
<a href="http://shibashake.com/dog/stop-food-aggression-stop-resource-guarding#drop" rel="nofollow">http://shibashake.com/dog/stop-food-aggression-stop-resource-guarding#drop</a><br />
<a href="http://thedoginc.com/dog-eating-poop#leave-it" rel="nofollow">http://thedoginc.com/dog-eating-poop#leave-it</a></p>
<p>- I play the object-exchange game with them so they learn that giving up an object, does not mean it is gone forever. In fact, they usually get it back with more stuff. I describe the object exchange game in the article above.</p>
<p>- I try to show them that they get the most resources by working and cooperating with me (<a href="http://shibashake.com/dog/nothing-in-life-is-free-dog-training" rel="nofollow">Nothing in Life is Free program</a>). I have rules, but I make sure I am consistent and fair with those rules.</p>
<p>- Most of all, I try to set them up for success and try not to place them in situations where they feel compelled to use aggression, to protect themselves or to protect their resources.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: julia</title>
		<link>http://shibashake.com/dog/stop-food-aggression-stop-resource-guarding#comment-25625</link>
		<dc:creator>julia</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 22 Apr 2012 05:57:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://shibashake.com/dog/food-aggression-stop-food-guarding-stop-resource-guarding#comment-25625</guid>
		<description>Hi There! Loving your site. I know you deal mostly with Shiba&#039;s, but I thought I would ask anyhow. 

I just (3 days ago) adopted a 5 month old yorkie havanese x from a young girl who had her as a &quot;boob broach.&quot; Never been on leash, not dog socialized (other dog in the house was an agressive poodle) or socialized with children. 

In the three days she has been around my three year old non stop and my four year old medium sized rescue special dog (who is pretty dis interested in her.) On day one while wiping her eyes (runny) she growled and snapped. I held her mouth closed and said &quot;no&quot; as she growled. Within the day I was able to wipe whenever I wanted. So real progress.

She has spent hours at the farm, dog parks, and at home in three days. My problem is possible kennal agression. She is curious, out going, submissive, and affectionate all day, but when she is cranky and tired at the end, she will growl or bite if you touch her where she is trying to nap. My son reached in her kennal today when I wasn&#039;t looking (three days of lots of new things) and, without warning, she snapped at him hard enough to give him a small puncture wound. I read that a dog awoken by touch may snap out of instinct, so I let it slide. When he cried she was beside herself trying to lick him better.

However, same evening, she was playing under a blanket on the couch when I heard her munching on something edible. I reached my hand in to grab it and again, without a growl or any warning she bite me hard enough to draw blood. I grabbed her muzzle and said no. 

So in one day two bites. She is tired and having full days of new things, but she growled from the very beginning when it came to her bed. Wondering if you have any advice on dealing with kennal agression. I know I may have surprised her, but I can&#039;t have her biting. Period. 

Any advice?

So two hard bites not in play in one day.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi There! Loving your site. I know you deal mostly with Shiba&#8217;s, but I thought I would ask anyhow. </p>
<p>I just (3 days ago) adopted a 5 month old yorkie havanese x from a young girl who had her as a &#8220;boob broach.&#8221; Never been on leash, not dog socialized (other dog in the house was an agressive poodle) or socialized with children. </p>
<p>In the three days she has been around my three year old non stop and my four year old medium sized rescue special dog (who is pretty dis interested in her.) On day one while wiping her eyes (runny) she growled and snapped. I held her mouth closed and said &#8220;no&#8221; as she growled. Within the day I was able to wipe whenever I wanted. So real progress.</p>
<p>She has spent hours at the farm, dog parks, and at home in three days. My problem is possible kennal agression. She is curious, out going, submissive, and affectionate all day, but when she is cranky and tired at the end, she will growl or bite if you touch her where she is trying to nap. My son reached in her kennal today when I wasn&#8217;t looking (three days of lots of new things) and, without warning, she snapped at him hard enough to give him a small puncture wound. I read that a dog awoken by touch may snap out of instinct, so I let it slide. When he cried she was beside herself trying to lick him better.</p>
<p>However, same evening, she was playing under a blanket on the couch when I heard her munching on something edible. I reached my hand in to grab it and again, without a growl or any warning she bite me hard enough to draw blood. I grabbed her muzzle and said no. </p>
<p>So in one day two bites. She is tired and having full days of new things, but she growled from the very beginning when it came to her bed. Wondering if you have any advice on dealing with kennal agression. I know I may have surprised her, but I can&#8217;t have her biting. Period. </p>
<p>Any advice?</p>
<p>So two hard bites not in play in one day.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: shibashake</title>
		<link>http://shibashake.com/dog/stop-food-aggression-stop-resource-guarding#comment-23976</link>
		<dc:creator>shibashake</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Mar 2012 21:39:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://shibashake.com/dog/food-aggression-stop-food-guarding-stop-resource-guarding#comment-23976</guid>
		<description>Hello Lisa,

Congratulations on your new puppy!

Both my Sibes are very food focused as well, so they always get excited during meal times. I always make sure that all my dogs are calm and in a down position before I do any food preparation. If they get up, then I no-mark (Ack-ack) and stop preparing the food. Once puppy is calm, I ask for a Down. If puppy does a Down, then I go back to preparing her food.

In this way puppy learns that -
calm and Down position = food preparation continues and food comes soon
jumping = food preparation stops and no food

I also make all my dogs work for their food either through handling exercises, bite inhibition exercises, or obedience training during the day. Whatever is left over, I put in &lt;a href=&quot;http://shibashake.com/dog/best-dog-toys&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;interactive food toys&lt;/a&gt; so they must work for that as well. Interactive food toys also help control the speed of eating. 

Hugs to Thor! Would love to see pictures if you have some up.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello Lisa,</p>
<p>Congratulations on your new puppy!</p>
<p>Both my Sibes are very food focused as well, so they always get excited during meal times. I always make sure that all my dogs are calm and in a down position before I do any food preparation. If they get up, then I no-mark (Ack-ack) and stop preparing the food. Once puppy is calm, I ask for a Down. If puppy does a Down, then I go back to preparing her food.</p>
<p>In this way puppy learns that -<br />
calm and Down position = food preparation continues and food comes soon<br />
jumping = food preparation stops and no food</p>
<p>I also make all my dogs work for their food either through handling exercises, bite inhibition exercises, or obedience training during the day. Whatever is left over, I put in <a href="http://shibashake.com/dog/best-dog-toys" rel="nofollow">interactive food toys</a> so they must work for that as well. Interactive food toys also help control the speed of eating. </p>
<p>Hugs to Thor! Would love to see pictures if you have some up.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: lisa</title>
		<link>http://shibashake.com/dog/stop-food-aggression-stop-resource-guarding#comment-23908</link>
		<dc:creator>lisa</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Mar 2012 15:19:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://shibashake.com/dog/food-aggression-stop-food-guarding-stop-resource-guarding#comment-23908</guid>
		<description>hi i have a 14 week old alaskan malamute his name is thor, when feeding time comes he jumps at the back of my legs whilest i am putting his food in his bowl and also howls .Is there any tips you can give me i always tell him sit then lie down and treat him for good behaviour but as soon as i turn my back he jumps again. My concern is that when he gets bigger which will be soon is that he will knock be over during feeding.He is not aggressive towards me i can take his food away and put my hands in his bowl i have also been hand feeding him bits aswel everyday any tips would be very grateful thanx lisa :)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hi i have a 14 week old alaskan malamute his name is thor, when feeding time comes he jumps at the back of my legs whilest i am putting his food in his bowl and also howls .Is there any tips you can give me i always tell him sit then lie down and treat him for good behaviour but as soon as i turn my back he jumps again. My concern is that when he gets bigger which will be soon is that he will knock be over during feeding.He is not aggressive towards me i can take his food away and put my hands in his bowl i have also been hand feeding him bits aswel everyday any tips would be very grateful thanx lisa <img src='http://shibashake.com/dog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: shibashake</title>
		<link>http://shibashake.com/dog/stop-food-aggression-stop-resource-guarding#comment-22666</link>
		<dc:creator>shibashake</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Mar 2012 23:47:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://shibashake.com/dog/food-aggression-stop-food-guarding-stop-resource-guarding#comment-22666</guid>
		<description>Hello Ruby,

From working with my own dogs it seems that they guard resources not so much because of &lt;a href=&quot;http://shibashake.com/dog/the-dominant-dog-dealing-with-dominance-in-dogs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dominance/alpha&lt;/a&gt;, but because they have learned two things-
1. People coming near them means that their stuff gets taken away.
2. Using aggression gets people to back away, which means that they get to keep their stuff. 
&lt;a href=&quot;http://shibashake.com/dog/resource-guarding-shiba-inu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shiba Inu Sephy&#039;s Early Resource Guarding Issues.&lt;/a&gt;

Dogs may also guard resources from other dogs for the same reasons. Therefore, to teach my dogs not to guard resources with each other at home, I do the following -
1. &quot;No stealing&quot; policy. I do not allow them to steal from each other. When one tries to steal, I no-mark the behavior (Ack-ack) and body block them away. Very rarely, one of them will manage to sneak something off, in which case, the thief goes to &lt;a href=&quot;http://shibashake.com/dog/puppy-biting-how-to-stop-puppy-biting#timeout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;timeout&lt;/a&gt; (i.e., loses his freedom), and loses what he stole. The victim (if he remains calm) gets the resource returned with an added bonus. This also teaches them that I enforce the &quot;No stealing&quot; rule, and they do not have to do it themselves.

2. I hand out all resources. I teach them that I hand out all resources and if there are any conflicts over resources, I will deal with it. When they have disagreements, they will usually let me know by vocalizing, and I will resolve the matter for them in a fair and consistent way.

3. Set them up for success. I try to always set them up for success. There are certain things that are very high priority, such as bully sticks. When I give those out, they each work on their own stick in a separate area. In this way, they won&#039;t be tempted to steal, and they can work on their bully stick in peace. Similarly, when I am not around to supervise, I do not leave any high priority objects or food items lying around.

Finally I make sure to reward my dogs well for working together and staying calm together. In this way, they learn that by cooperating, they get the most stuff. 

Here is more on what I do to keep the peace at home with my dogs-
http://shibashake.com/dog/second-dog-introducing-a-second-dog

For dog-to-dog aggression during walks, I did a fair amount of desensitization exercises with my Shiba Inu. I also make sure to always create enough space, and to make dog-to-dog encounters neutral and calm. 

I start desensitization exercises slowly, with a calm dog that is not doing anything. Once Sephy is comfortable with that, I very slowly increase the challenge, for example, by putting a very low priority item close to the other dog, etc. Here is more on dog-to-dog desensitization-
http://shibashake.com/dog/dog-to-dog-aggression#desensitize</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello Ruby,</p>
<p>From working with my own dogs it seems that they guard resources not so much because of <a href="http://shibashake.com/dog/the-dominant-dog-dealing-with-dominance-in-dogs" rel="nofollow">dominance/alpha</a>, but because they have learned two things-<br />
1. People coming near them means that their stuff gets taken away.<br />
2. Using aggression gets people to back away, which means that they get to keep their stuff.<br />
<a href="http://shibashake.com/dog/resource-guarding-shiba-inu" rel="nofollow">Shiba Inu Sephy&#8217;s Early Resource Guarding Issues.</a></p>
<p>Dogs may also guard resources from other dogs for the same reasons. Therefore, to teach my dogs not to guard resources with each other at home, I do the following -<br />
1. &#8220;No stealing&#8221; policy. I do not allow them to steal from each other. When one tries to steal, I no-mark the behavior (Ack-ack) and body block them away. Very rarely, one of them will manage to sneak something off, in which case, the thief goes to <a href="http://shibashake.com/dog/puppy-biting-how-to-stop-puppy-biting#timeout" rel="nofollow">timeout</a> (i.e., loses his freedom), and loses what he stole. The victim (if he remains calm) gets the resource returned with an added bonus. This also teaches them that I enforce the &#8220;No stealing&#8221; rule, and they do not have to do it themselves.</p>
<p>2. I hand out all resources. I teach them that I hand out all resources and if there are any conflicts over resources, I will deal with it. When they have disagreements, they will usually let me know by vocalizing, and I will resolve the matter for them in a fair and consistent way.</p>
<p>3. Set them up for success. I try to always set them up for success. There are certain things that are very high priority, such as bully sticks. When I give those out, they each work on their own stick in a separate area. In this way, they won&#8217;t be tempted to steal, and they can work on their bully stick in peace. Similarly, when I am not around to supervise, I do not leave any high priority objects or food items lying around.</p>
<p>Finally I make sure to reward my dogs well for working together and staying calm together. In this way, they learn that by cooperating, they get the most stuff. </p>
<p>Here is more on what I do to keep the peace at home with my dogs-<br />
<a href="http://shibashake.com/dog/second-dog-introducing-a-second-dog" rel="nofollow">http://shibashake.com/dog/second-dog-introducing-a-second-dog</a></p>
<p>For dog-to-dog aggression during walks, I did a fair amount of desensitization exercises with my Shiba Inu. I also make sure to always create enough space, and to make dog-to-dog encounters neutral and calm. </p>
<p>I start desensitization exercises slowly, with a calm dog that is not doing anything. Once Sephy is comfortable with that, I very slowly increase the challenge, for example, by putting a very low priority item close to the other dog, etc. Here is more on dog-to-dog desensitization-<br />
<a href="http://shibashake.com/dog/dog-to-dog-aggression#desensitize" rel="nofollow">http://shibashake.com/dog/dog-to-dog-aggression#desensitize</a></p>
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		<title>By: Ruby</title>
		<link>http://shibashake.com/dog/stop-food-aggression-stop-resource-guarding#comment-22562</link>
		<dc:creator>Ruby</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Mar 2012 05:38:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://shibashake.com/dog/food-aggression-stop-food-guarding-stop-resource-guarding#comment-22562</guid>
		<description>Hi. Thanks a million for this great website . This is my quick reference for anything that seems like an issue with my 5.5 Month old Golden. He was getting food aggressive by the day and I couldn never understand y . But your experience has helped me identify my faults . Firstly , when he came to us about 2 months back , he was unwell - Kennel cough and then acute bronchitis . So we did let him get away with a lot of stuff .I could start walking him outside only after a couple of weeks and then he would always eat mud, pebbles, plastic etc . I used to constantly pull things out of his mouth. I didnt teach him the &quot;drop it &quot; command formally , but he learnt on the job - if u know what i mean :-) .Used to always give him a bigger treat when he dropped stuff . But then I realised he was ok dropping stuff when there are no other dogs around . He snapped at me recently when i asked him to drop something and there were two dogs around. It really upset me . Two problems here 1. I am not his Alpha  2. Resource guarding streak . While he is ok if i stroke him while having food or a Kong , he has a problem when he picks up something on his own outside . According to him , I control his resources at home and not outside . The worst is that he snaps at other dogs carrying food in their mouth . This is the bit I am more worried about . We have been religiously applying all your suggestions on Resource Guarding and becoming an Alpha for 2 days now and there is a noticeable progress . Funnily , he is happier that he is not the Alpha - helped taking stress off him :-). Btw , just a small tip for teaching a dog to go to stay at his place without giving him treats . Hide and seek works wonders . It keeps him stimulated , the treat is finding either of us and he loves it .May be you have covered it somewhere , but just felt like sharing . Thanks again . Pl give me suggestions for ensuring my dog doesn&#039;t snap at other dogs if they have an edible/toy.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi. Thanks a million for this great website . This is my quick reference for anything that seems like an issue with my 5.5 Month old Golden. He was getting food aggressive by the day and I couldn never understand y . But your experience has helped me identify my faults . Firstly , when he came to us about 2 months back , he was unwell &#8211; Kennel cough and then acute bronchitis . So we did let him get away with a lot of stuff .I could start walking him outside only after a couple of weeks and then he would always eat mud, pebbles, plastic etc . I used to constantly pull things out of his mouth. I didnt teach him the &#8220;drop it &#8221; command formally , but he learnt on the job &#8211; if u know what i mean <img src='http://shibashake.com/dog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  .Used to always give him a bigger treat when he dropped stuff . But then I realised he was ok dropping stuff when there are no other dogs around . He snapped at me recently when i asked him to drop something and there were two dogs around. It really upset me . Two problems here 1. I am not his Alpha  2. Resource guarding streak . While he is ok if i stroke him while having food or a Kong , he has a problem when he picks up something on his own outside . According to him , I control his resources at home and not outside . The worst is that he snaps at other dogs carrying food in their mouth . This is the bit I am more worried about . We have been religiously applying all your suggestions on Resource Guarding and becoming an Alpha for 2 days now and there is a noticeable progress . Funnily , he is happier that he is not the Alpha &#8211; helped taking stress off him <img src='http://shibashake.com/dog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> . Btw , just a small tip for teaching a dog to go to stay at his place without giving him treats . Hide and seek works wonders . It keeps him stimulated , the treat is finding either of us and he loves it .May be you have covered it somewhere , but just felt like sharing . Thanks again . Pl give me suggestions for ensuring my dog doesn&#8217;t snap at other dogs if they have an edible/toy.</p>
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		<title>By: shibashake</title>
		<link>http://shibashake.com/dog/stop-food-aggression-stop-resource-guarding#comment-21096</link>
		<dc:creator>shibashake</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 14 Feb 2012 04:13:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://shibashake.com/dog/food-aggression-stop-food-guarding-stop-resource-guarding#comment-21096</guid>
		<description>Hello Stacy,

Thanks for sharing your experiences with us. 

As you say, it is surprising that she would suddenly vocalize. Has anything changed in her routine or in the routine of her family? Sometimes, it could also be triggered by physical discomfort. 

Big hugs to your furry pack and let us know how it goes.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello Stacy,</p>
<p>Thanks for sharing your experiences with us. </p>
<p>As you say, it is surprising that she would suddenly vocalize. Has anything changed in her routine or in the routine of her family? Sometimes, it could also be triggered by physical discomfort. </p>
<p>Big hugs to your furry pack and let us know how it goes.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Stacy Darlea</title>
		<link>http://shibashake.com/dog/stop-food-aggression-stop-resource-guarding#comment-21006</link>
		<dc:creator>Stacy Darlea</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Feb 2012 18:44:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://shibashake.com/dog/food-aggression-stop-food-guarding-stop-resource-guarding#comment-21006</guid>
		<description>In the past, we have had food aggressive dogs who were that way with other animals, but never to us people.

You have some very useful information that I will be putting to good use! Our Am. Bulldog/Boxer/Mastiff mix just celebrated her first birthday and has not EVER in the past year shown food or toy aggression towards us or other animals (we also have a Jack Russel &amp; black cat). She is fed twice a day, is given treats regularly (when being a good girl; letting us know she has to &#039;go&#039; by ringing the bells hung on the back door, sharing toys, coming when called, walking well on the leash-still in training for that one, etc.) She takes the treats ever so gently!

However just the other night she showed food aggression towards me when eating and all I did was stroke her back once in passing(something I have been doing all along)! And all it was, was a growl, but one of those deep down &#039;don&#039;t mess with me&#039; ones - no teeth showing or snarled lip that I could see. You could have knocked me over with a feather upon hearing it.

Hoping my response was in the right direction; With authority told her &#039;NO&#039; and used my legs and body weight to shift her away from her food, which she allowed me to do with no problem. At the same time I picked up her bowl and removed it. I puttered around the kitchen for about 5 min. then proceeded to make her sit and wait while I put down her bowl again. Once she had permission, she started eating, I repeated the back stroke - getting a half hearted growl - so I repeated again. Third time was the charm; I even sat next to her petting her the entire time - on her back, back legs, neck, head and belly. 

I would love to say this one time &#039;fixed&#039; it - but am continuing to show her there is no need for her food aggression. 

Any other time she is a loving, kissing, snuggling, 75 pounds of solid muscle mass just waiting to love and be loved - so I am sure you can see why I want to nip this in the bud.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In the past, we have had food aggressive dogs who were that way with other animals, but never to us people.</p>
<p>You have some very useful information that I will be putting to good use! Our Am. Bulldog/Boxer/Mastiff mix just celebrated her first birthday and has not EVER in the past year shown food or toy aggression towards us or other animals (we also have a Jack Russel &amp; black cat). She is fed twice a day, is given treats regularly (when being a good girl; letting us know she has to &#8216;go&#8217; by ringing the bells hung on the back door, sharing toys, coming when called, walking well on the leash-still in training for that one, etc.) She takes the treats ever so gently!</p>
<p>However just the other night she showed food aggression towards me when eating and all I did was stroke her back once in passing(something I have been doing all along)! And all it was, was a growl, but one of those deep down &#8216;don&#8217;t mess with me&#8217; ones &#8211; no teeth showing or snarled lip that I could see. You could have knocked me over with a feather upon hearing it.</p>
<p>Hoping my response was in the right direction; With authority told her &#8216;NO&#8217; and used my legs and body weight to shift her away from her food, which she allowed me to do with no problem. At the same time I picked up her bowl and removed it. I puttered around the kitchen for about 5 min. then proceeded to make her sit and wait while I put down her bowl again. Once she had permission, she started eating, I repeated the back stroke &#8211; getting a half hearted growl &#8211; so I repeated again. Third time was the charm; I even sat next to her petting her the entire time &#8211; on her back, back legs, neck, head and belly. </p>
<p>I would love to say this one time &#8216;fixed&#8217; it &#8211; but am continuing to show her there is no need for her food aggression. </p>
<p>Any other time she is a loving, kissing, snuggling, 75 pounds of solid muscle mass just waiting to love and be loved &#8211; so I am sure you can see why I want to nip this in the bud.</p>
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		<title>By: shibashake</title>
		<link>http://shibashake.com/dog/stop-food-aggression-stop-resource-guarding#comment-20410</link>
		<dc:creator>shibashake</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Feb 2012 23:34:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://shibashake.com/dog/food-aggression-stop-food-guarding-stop-resource-guarding#comment-20410</guid>
		<description>With my dogs, I have observed that they are a lot more serious about food when they are hungry. 

There are also other factors that can affect a dog&#039;s mood, his level of tolerance, and how he reacts to others. When my Shiba is in a bad mood, he is a lot less tolerant, and is more forceful at warning puppy Lara away. Other times, he is happy to play and lie down next to her.

In many ways, this reminds me of when I was young. Sometimes, I was willing to share my coloring book with my brother. But when I was in a bad mood, I didn&#039;t want him coming near any of my stuff.

I always step in and stop any guarding behavior, before it escalates. This teaches the dogs that guarding is not acceptable, no matter the circumstance. By the same token, when I see that Shiba is in a bad mood, I make sure the Lara does not go over and bother him.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>With my dogs, I have observed that they are a lot more serious about food when they are hungry. </p>
<p>There are also other factors that can affect a dog&#8217;s mood, his level of tolerance, and how he reacts to others. When my Shiba is in a bad mood, he is a lot less tolerant, and is more forceful at warning puppy Lara away. Other times, he is happy to play and lie down next to her.</p>
<p>In many ways, this reminds me of when I was young. Sometimes, I was willing to share my coloring book with my brother. But when I was in a bad mood, I didn&#8217;t want him coming near any of my stuff.</p>
<p>I always step in and stop any guarding behavior, before it escalates. This teaches the dogs that guarding is not acceptable, no matter the circumstance. By the same token, when I see that Shiba is in a bad mood, I make sure the Lara does not go over and bother him.</p>
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