What has worked with him is to teach him that people coming near him is a positive thing. Also, if he freely gives something up, it does not mean that he has lost it forever. I did a lot of food and object exercises with him and things got better for us. I taught him the drop command, played the object exchange game with him, and carefully managed him so that he does not get dangerous things into his mouth. Initially, I also removed objects that he is likely to protect so that he does not keep practicing the guarding behavior. The more he practices it, the more he is likely to repeat it.

Once he gets it he runs and hides underneath my kitchen table where I can’t get to him and the only way that I can get it from him is to bribe him with an extremely high priority treat

One thing that helped with my Shiba is to put a drag-lead on him (only on a flat collar). In this way, he can’t run away, start a chasing game, and hide from us. When he is successful at running and hiding, it is a form of reward for my Shiba, and will only encourage him to keep repeating those behaviors.
http://shibashake.com/dog/puppy-obedience-training#draglead

Also, I *do not* reward Shiba until *after* he freely performs a good behavior, e.g. he free gives up an item. If I reward him before that, then I am rewarding him for guarding his objects, which will only make him guard them more.

If there are serious aggression issues, it is probably best to consult with a professional trainer.
http://shibashake.com/dog/finding-a-dog-trainer

In terms of special treats, I don’t give my Shiba anything that encourages food guarding. The more he practices food guarding, the more he is likely to repeat that behavior. I did a lot of food training exercises and hand feeding with my Shiba when he was young, first starting with lower priority items. Then, I would very very slowly move on to higher priority items. Bite inhibition training was also very helpful.

I always make sure to stay safe and not to provoke an aggressive reaction. It is better to set our dogs up for success.

http://shibashake.hubpages.com/_srec/hub/How-to-Stop-Your-Dog-from-Guarding-Resources-guarding-food-resource-guarding-dog-aggression

When he is food aggressive, he snarls really badly and I think he would be ready to bite. Sometimes I have tried exchancing yummy stuff with treats, but he won’t give up on his special treat. I haven’t had the courage to take the treat away from his mouth using force.

He is a spitz, very independent and also very greedy for food.

Do you have any ideas how to solve our problem? Thanks

The key thing that I am relearning with potty training is that constant supervision is absolutely necessary. I must be there to stop puppy or else I would have missed a valuable learning opportunity. In addition, the more mistakes puppy makes, the more likely he will repeat that behavior.

At night though it is not possible for us to supervise therefore the only way I know of to prevent potty mistakes is to keep our dog in a limited area. Some possibilities include -
1. Crate.
Here is what the Humane Society of the United States and the American Dog Trainer’s Network have to say about crate training.
2. Tie-down.
3. Pen/Enclosure.
4. Baby gates/ Room door.

You can also try posting your question on the Shiba Inu forum. There are many knowledgeable Shiba owners there.
http://www.shibainuforum.org/forum/

Please help….

One of my dogs, my Shiba Inu, is very much a rogue. During meal times he would wait until my other dog has gotten most of the food out of their food toys, then, he will move in and mooch off her.

The thing that has helped most with this is supervision. I make sure my Shiba does not steal from my Sibe. In this way, my Sibe does not feel the need to guard her stuff. Instead, I teach her that I do the guarding for her.

When they have really high priority items like bully sticks, I separate them. Then I only let them be together again after I remove those items. Since the dogs do not have anything to guard, they are less likely to practice guarding behavior.

I also remove any unfinished food after their meals so that there isn’t food lying around for anybody to steal.

Reward group training can also help to reduce food guarding. I usually do obedience commands with both dogs together so that they learn to work together, and they get rewarded together. The one that does the commands faster gets rewarded more frequently, so the competition also helps to improve their obedience training.

Some things that helped me most include –
1. Stopping my dog from getting the object before he gets it in his mouth. I walked him on a shorter leash and was always on the look-out for bad stuff.

2. Reduce number of force removals. I limited force removals to only dangerous items. Tissues and such I will try to stop him from getting them with the leash but if it is in his mouth I don’t forcibly remove it.

3. Playing the object exchange game, adding food to his objects, and teaching him the drop command.

4. Bite inhibition training.

Here is another article on resource guarding that focuses on why dogs develop this behavior -
http://shibashake.com/dog/resource-guarding-shiba-inu

A professional trainer can be very helpful in these circumstances.