If she ignores me and keeps biting, I turn away from her and totally ignore her.

If she jumps and keeps trying to bite at me or my clothes, then I say Timeout and remove her to a Timeout area.

Here is more on my experiences with puppy biting-
http://shibashake.com/dog/puppy-biting-how-to-stop-puppy-biting
http://shibashake.hubpages.com/_srec/hub/How-to-stop-your-dog-from-biting-you-and-biting-others-dog-aggression-aggressive-dog

I also do bite inhibition training which teaches a dog to have a soft mouth.

Here are my experiences with leash biting.

One thing that usually works for me is to save the page as a HTML file. In Internet Explorer I just click on the “Page” menu on the toolbar at the top of the browser and choose “Save As”. Then I either select a Web Page (HTML file) or Text file (If I just want text) . This saves the page onto my local computer. Then I open the file using Microsoft Word, and print the document from there.

Hope this helps.

Many thanks

Rose

Dog aggression is an overloaded term. Likely, my definition of aggression will be different from everyone else’s.

1. Normal dog behavior.
Almost all of the aggression we see today with our companion dogs is a result of normal dog behavior. Food aggression, for example, is a dog telling the perceived “food thief” to back off. Over excited play can also quickly turn into something more intense.

As you say, context is very important and it is simply not possible to tell from a single picture if a dog is being “truly aggressive” assuming that we mean the same thing when we say “truly aggressive”. Much of what we use to read dog body language is missing. Faces may not be visible, parts of the body may not be visible, and there are no motion or verbal cues.

Even with multiple pictures it can be difficult to tell. This is why it is dangerous to follow techniques that we see on television because it is difficult to tell what circumstances are appropriate for which techniques.

2. Truly aggressive dog.

I am not sure what a truly aggressive dog is. If a dog growls to warn somebody away from what he perceives as his food, is that truly aggressive? If a dog bites based on the command of his owner, is that truly aggressive? If a dog bites because he is redirecting his over-excited energy, is that truly aggressive?

A truly aggressive dog, or a dog whose intent is to do extreme harm or kill a human target, is very rare. Indeed domestication is all about breeding out these tendencies, and we have been very successful at that with our dogs.

3. A bite is a bite.

Whether a dog is truly aggressive or not, his bite will still hurt and may cause damage. For this reason, we all do our best to observe, train, and manage our dogs so that they do not find themselves in a bite-situation or really in any situation where they may inadvertently hurt others. Often a jump or a strong body bump can cause significant damage as well especially to the really young or elderly.

One time I was knocked down by a young pit bull that was playing with my dog. I was standing still and a strong body bump knocked me off my feet. That hurt a lot and would have been worse if I were much younger or much older.

Most of the time bites or other dog related injuries do not occur because of true aggression, but simply because of insufficient control or management.

To me, the important issue is to make sure we are in control and that we do not expose our dogs to situations where they may accidentally cause harm to others and to themselves.

For us, the most important and hardest part was to control my own fear and stay calm when Sephy was misbehaving. When Sephy started humping my leg, I would non-mark him – Ack, ack. If he does not stop right away, I calmly take him by his drag lead to timeout. The drag lead (only on a regular flat collar, not a training collar) is very helpful because it allows me to control him without him mouthing on my hand. Then I always ask him to do a simple command for me before letting him out of timeout.

I remember that I felt lousy and somewhat betrayed when Sephy did his biting and humping on me. He didn’t do it to my partner. I thought to some degree that Sephy did not love or even like me and that was very hurtful. But later on, I realized that these behaviors have little to do with like or love and more to do with my own feelings of fear and uncertainty. Sephy is a very sensitive dog and he picked up on my stressed out energy. This caused him to get stressed as well, so he starts to act in an erratic fashion. This in turn made me even more fearful and so on. It was a pretty bad cycle.

Other things that helped -
1. Having a very fixed routine and a lot of house rules.
2. Following the NILIF (Nothing in Life is Free) program. This just means that Shiba has to do something for me first before I give him anything in return (even affection, opening doors, etc.).
3. Bite inhibition training.

Here are some of the things that helped with Sephy when he was a puppy -
http://shibashake.com/dog/puppy-training-tips-and-advice

Here are some of the trials and tribulations (mostly trials) that I went through with Sephy in the first 6 months.
http://shibashake.hubpages.com/_srec/hub/Shiba-Inu-Sephy-and-Me

Also check out the Shiba Inu forum. There are many Shiba Inu owners there with a lot of good information.
http://www.shibainuforum.org/forum/

The initial first few weeks are the worst with a new puppy. Things will get better once a routine is established and Shiba starts to understand the rules and boundaries in the house.

This article outlines some of the things that helped with Sephy. Some other things that helped -

• Following the NILIF (Nothing in Life is Free) program. This just means that Shiba has to do something for me before I give him anything.
• Having a very fixed routine and schedule. Shiba Sephy needs and likes to have routine and structure.
• Exercise and play time. Shiba Sephy works for all of his food.

Here are more things I did with Sephy when he was a puppy -
http://shibashake.com/dog/puppy-training-tips-and-advice