Bite inhibition training is also very helpful. Being a Lab, she should pick up bite inhibition quickly.

As for sniffing, most dogs love to sniff. They are built for it. I use a 6 foot leash to walk my dogs and not a flexi-leash. You get more control by using 6 foot leash. Here are some of my experiences on leash training my dogs.
http://shibashake.com/dog/leash-training-your-dog

One of my neighbors also loves to run. She tells me that she walks her dogs separately, and only runs on her own.

I’m not the owner of this dog, people in my extended family are. I get the feeling that our blonde labrador has no clue as to why she’s sometimes corporately disciplined with a slap to her side/face area or a whip with her leash. But I’m not exactly sure. She understands the traditions/customs of many of our institutions (i.e. night time, going out to urinate, certain games, going for walks) and therefore, she probably has an idea as to why she’s being hit.

Our dog is a good dog. I just want her to not do certain behaviors, like destroy things with her mouth, or slow down our run by always losing her focus and sniffs at everything.

Please give me advice.

Sometimes aversive corrections can cause aggression in dogs because of fear or stress.
http://www.upenn.edu/pennnews/news/if-youre-aggressive-your-dog-will-be-too-says-veterinary-study-university-pennsylvania

Do you use both since you have described them both here? Do you have a preference?

For a non-mark I usually use Ack-ack because it is more unique than No. I say “no” a bunch during normal conversation, and that may be confusing to the dogs. By using a unique word, the dogs know that every time I say Ack-ack, if they do not stop, then there is always a consequence for their actions.

I’m not sure if he’s caught on that it means no-no behavior yet (is there a way to make sure he knows that?

Consistency, I have found, is very important in dog training. Every time I non-mark, I always follow through with an action if the pups do not listen and do not stop. I usually respond in the same way for the same behavior. In this way, they learn that if they dig holes in the yard, they lose their backyard privileges and have to come into the house. If they bite each other too hard, play stops and they have to do obedience commands, etc. Also, I make sure to start small and then slowly escalate the consequence only if the dog escalates his behavior.

I’m kind of worries he’s associating it with good things since I usually have to lure him away with a treat.

In general, we want to only a reward a good behavior. As you say, if we reward undesirable behaviors then the dog will keep repeating that behavior.

When Sephy bites on furniture, I non-mark him and give him an alternate command (that he knows very well), e.g. Go to Your Mat. If he complies with that command, then I reward him for doing what I asked. Often, I would treat him, and also play with him so he learns that following what I say is very rewarding.

If he does not comply then I slowly take away his freedoms. First I body block him away, then I do an obedience session with him. If he ignores me and goes back to biting then I take him to time-out.

In this way he learns that if he follows what I say then he gets some really great rewards. If he continues doing undesirable stuff then he loses his freedom and his access to people.

After 2-3 time-outs, he went suuuuuuper hyper and dashed around the house

Try slowly increasing the time he stays in time-out. Also, I always ask my dogs to do some simple obedience commands before they come out of time-out. Then when they come out, I hold onto their drag lead for a bit, so they only have limited freedom for a while.

In general, I have found that it is better to be more strict and have more rules in the beginning. Then the rules can later be relaxed as the puppy matures.

Did you go through this stage with your dogs and is there a way to make it so that he calms down but doesn’t resent it?

Yeah, mostly with my Shiba Inu. He was a very stubborn dog, even as a puppy. We had some difficult times – but it got better.

In terms of resentment, that is a very good question. I think that is why I usually try to set my dogs up for success. In this way, I can reward them and they are less likely to do something that is undesirable to me. However, there will be times when puppy does something that is against the house rules.

Puppy is not going to enjoy losing his freedom or having to follow strict house rules – but this is necessary for safety, health, and happiness of the entire family/pack. In any stable and healthy relationship, there has to be give and take. Puppy must learn that he can’t just take, sometimes, he must give as well.

Here are some of the things that helped with my Shiba Inu -
http://shibashake.com/dog/pack-leader-to-an-aggressive-dog

Update: I’ve tried the time-out when he was incessantly chewing on the table even after trying ah-ah, drop, body block. It got him good for a bit but then he chewed again. After 2-3 time-outs, he went suuuuuuper hyper and dashed around the house, and he is also avoiding the path to the bathroom I used to time-out him. But that bathroom is next to the door, so I have to reach way over to get the main door open before he’ll head down that path. Did you go through this stage with your dogs and is there a way to make it so that he calms down but doesn’t resent it? Please do let me know if I made a mistake somewhere in handling the situation!

It seems like it’s easier to raise a pup with other dogs around, because puppies learn how to behave from other dogs probably more so than humans.

That is true in some respects. For example puppy Lara learned from the other dogs that she needs to Sit and calmly wait before she gets any food. She didn’t seem to get the potty thing tho, so that I really had to supervise.

Also, when there are multiple dogs, additional steps must be taken in terms of introducing puppy to the other dogs, making sure that play does not get too rough, making sure that they don’t compete for resources, etc. So there are additional issues to deal with in a multi-dog household.

Now we have his kennel in storage, and he hopefully sits at the door whenever we leave just in case we decide he can come.

I don’t think I could have asked for a better dog.

It seems like it’s easier to raise a pup with other dogs around, because puppies learn how to behave from other dogs probably more so than humans. I know my old dog Ursa, as the story goes, never had an accident in the house because she followed her mama’s lead.

Your potty training tips are right on. During the first couple of days I would sometimes take a quick bathroom break when puppy was sleeping – WRONG! Puppy decided that that was a good time for her to take a bathroom break as well.

Now I do what you say and keep puppy chained to me at all times. Can’t even leave her for 1 second or she will be up to something.